The hammer spring is located in the butt of the gun, around the hammer strut. If you take off your grips you'll be able to see the hammer spring hiding behind the mag brake.
To remove, remove slide from gun and decock the hammer. Remove grips. Push the butt of the gun against a hard surface (or use your thumb) to depress the lanyard loop (if you gun has one) or the little round plug in the butt. With pressure applied, push out the pin that holds the plug in place. Slowly release tension and the plug/lanyard loop will come out of the frame. You may also need to remove the mag brake for the plug to come all the way out. Once the plug is out the hammer spring will fall out.
Assembly is in reverse.
I have a tendency to go with the lighter springs. 13 lb hammer spring will result in a much lighter pull than stock, but you may need the extended firing pin and reduced firing pin spring to avoid lite primer strikes. If you go with the 11.5 hammer spring definitely recommend the extended firing pin/spring. CGW's website has some good info in the hammer spring section. I think he recommends 15 lbs as the lightest hammer spring without the extended firing pin/spring.