Upgrades to my Lee Classic Cast Turret

[tdogg]

I got my Lee Classic cast about 9 months ago to replace my Lee challenger single stage.  It was a good upgrade but I have found a few nagging things that needed to get fixed. 

I have an issue with the stock wooden handle, I actually don't mind the wood ball but it falls off and it does so at the down stroke and you end up scraping your hand on the metal rod.  My other issue with it is your hand is too close to the safety prime system and it hits it on the up stroke (I like to shorten the handle as much as possible since I don't need the leverage).  I debated getting the roller handle from Inline Fabrication for some time.  I didn't know if I wanted the ergo curved handle or the straight handle?  I ended up opting for the curved ergo handle and I like it.  I still have to bend over ever so slightly but it does have better ergonomics than the stock handle.  The roller handle is nice and smooth.  You get better leverage with less effort with the larger roller handle.  Your hand is also offset away from the safety prime system.  All in all I am pleased with this upgrade.  Now I just need to do is raise my press off the bench about 3 inches and it will be perfect.

http://inlinefabrication.com/products/ergo-roller-for-lee-classic-turret-press



While I was shopping at Inline Fabrication I came across this:

http://inlinefabrication.com/products/case-ejector-for-the-lee-classic-turret-reverse-rotation

It is a really clever solution to the issue of how many times you have to handle a brass/component/cartridge during loading with the progressive turret system.  Essentially you have to load the brass (1), actuate the safety prime system (2), insert a bullet (3), and then remove the completed cartridge (4).  It does add quite a bit of time over the course of a reloading session to have to remove the finished cartridge.  This reverse rotation cartridge/case ejector system eliminates the #4 handling step (cartridge removal) and lets you get into a better rhythm while loading.

It was entirely an impulse buy while I was purchasing the ergo handle.  I can say it works great!  You have to ensure your turret is "timed" properly to ensure that is stops in the detent otherwise the little case paddle pusher that pushes the case out of the shell holder will occasionally stick at the top of the stroke.  Once I got it timed better for the speed I was now loading it functioned great.  Another added benefit is the bin system.  It allows you to put your brass right there so your movements are minimized during the cycle.  All in all it was a good buy and I'm happy with it (even considering the cost).  There is a good video showing the operation on the Inline website.

The install would have been easier but I use the Lee press bench plate system (so I can switch between my COAX and the turret quickly).  So I had to move the Inline fabrication system plate over to clear the Lee plate.  I drilled two holes through the Inline fabrication plate and used washers on the right side to maintain the right height.  It took 30 minutes even with my added complexity.  The other think you have to remember is that you have to swap your #2 (powder through expander) and #4 (crimp) dies because the rotation is reversed.





Finally I have been fighting lighting on the press.  I've tried a drop light positioned above offset to the right but in the summer it's hot.  I tried a small book light attached to the press but I could never get it to stay put and there wasn't much light output even when positioned correctly.  I've seen the press mounted LED lights and thought I can make that.  So I did a little research and purchased the components for the system.  There was a small learning curve getting components out of China (inexpensive but worthless crap).  Once I had parts that actually worked I'm really pleased with the location and amount of light these little LED's put out.  I mounted it on the right side of the turret top with a thin piece of clear lexan painted black to prevent any glare from the system bothering me during loading.  You definitely don't want to stare at these for too long!  I remove the 3m adhesive and use a quality servo tape to hold everything in place.  They haven't moved even after hours of being lit (slightly warm to the touch).



Without LED Light


With LED Light


Lexan mount


So those are my upgrades to date.  I'm really pleased with all of them.  If anyone has any questions about any of them post them up.

Cheers,
Toby

[Towns]

I'm going to look into that cartridge ejector!  That must be new.  I have their ergo handle and really like it.  Thanks tdogg

[jameslovesjammie]

That cartridge ejector is neat!

[tdogg]

Yeah when I saw the video on Inline's site I was really impressed with how simple yet effective the cartridge ejector works.  It actually works as advertised.  I didn't attach the cartridge chute to the press and it has yet to not direct the cartridge into the bin.  The little pusher is just a rubber nipple so it's flexible.

Cheers,
Toby

[P01man]

Nice!  I have inline upgrades on both of my presses - Lee Classic Turret and Hornady LnL AP.  The cartridge ejector looks cool, guessing its new.   I use my classic Turret for test loads and recipes given the AP - else would buy that ejector in a heart beat!

[Calcz]

Perfect timing. I have been gather advice on the ammo and hand loading section and it's been great. See beginners asks veterans. Some who posted here helped me there. As I have not bought anything but am preparing my list, are these things I should view as a first round purchase or are they things I can wait on until I'm more experienced?
Thanks much

[jameslovesjammie]

Perfect timing. I have been gather advice on the ammo and hand loading section and it's been great. See beginners asks veterans. Some who posted here helped me there. As I have not bought anything but am preparing my list, are these things I should view as a first round purchase or are they things I can wait on until I'm more experienced?
Thanks much

These should all be considered accessories, not necessities.  Optional upgrades.

[Calcz]

Thanks, that makes choices easier.

[tdogg]

So I'm offering the LED lighting up for sale here:

http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=69712.0

I will donate all the proceeds back to this forum from the first light kits sold.  I can make them however you want them configured (within reason).

PM me if you are interested.

Cheers,
Toby

[vwpieces]

Followed your lead on the Classic Turret LED lighting mount. Used bright White 5050 SMD bare strip, adhesive backed. Mounted a central plug on the bench to use for power on all the presses mounted on my Lee bench plate. Used a 12V DC 30W power supply & a 4-way splitter to power all the new LED accessories. Also used the 5050 strip in an extruded aluminum housing for one meter of lighting under my shelf to illuminate my bench. RC single stage also got the upgraded lighting. LoadMaster has the Hornady LED strip mounted & I can plug that into the same connector on the bench. Next time it is mounted I'll compare it to the Strips I have made, change it if needed. Sure beats the 20W Halogen desk light I was using before. Less power consumption, cooler & Brighter. I can switch it all off & on with the power outlet strip switch.

May have also noticed the Tool-Less handles on the bench plate. Never did use the original phillips screws... Had socket heads in there for a while & used 3/16th T-handle allen wrench. Asjustable handles are KIPP style with no shaft but threaded internally, 1/4-20. I used bolts threaded up from under the mounting plate & 1/2in tall spacers to get some height on the handles for clearance. No problems with any press I have mounted. I also have a Forster trimmer mounted to a wood base & old Lyman 45 lube sizer. Limited space on my small bench...

[BDG]

Nice setup.

[tdogg]

VW,

I like your tool-less handle setup!  I think I could add a similar setup but I'd have to counterbore the bench to clear the Lee Bench plate.  I'd also have to drill additional holes for the new Inline bin holder plate.  I'm thinking I need to raise the press up ~3 inches so maybe when I do that I will incorporate the new mount hardware.  Where did you get them and how long are your 1/4-20 screws?

I've got my old challenger single stage setup with a universal decapper to decap rifle cases and my COAX setup for all my hunting loading.  I also have limited space and hence use the Lee bench plate system.

I use the same 5050 LED's in bright white.  The 30W power supply is probably overkill for these LED's.  I use a 12W AC/DC adapter, I'm pretty sure even that would power your 1 meter under bench lighting (but it depends on the LED).  I replaced the 3M adhesive with some radio control servo tape that is much better and doesn't fail hold the strip in place.  I'm going to try some of the 3m foam body molding double sided adhesive tape since it comes in thinner widths.  I picked it up at an autoparts store.  Originally I had to us a zip tie to hold the pigtail end in place so it wouldn't peel off.

Cheers,
Toby

Edit: Fixed a typo on wattage.

[vwpieces]

I think I actually used phillips screws under the plate, less clearance in the wood for the heads. Already had the dimples from the socket head screws being slightly too long. Made it easy to know where to take material off.  Screws are 1in long, Used red Loctite on the screw to plate too. 1/4in tall aluminum spacers with a small, 1/2in, diameter steel washer on top. Perfect fit for the handles & there is only 0.335in of threads inside the handles.

For anyone that is unfamiliar with the KIPP handles; If you lift UP they disengage, & you can rotate them in a different position without loosening. No need to have room for full rotations because you can ratchet them into position needed for leverage or move them out of the way. Used in industry where frequent adjustments are needed.

I know the Bright White LED roll were rated almost 2X higher than any colors or soft white. 16ft roll was 72watts in 5mm LEDs, 300 in a roll so that's 0.24watts for each LED. I am over 15w already. I laid out the entire roll when I first got it to see the brightness. The 30w PS was getting warm quick. That is when I looked up some data sheets on the 5050. I am sure you are good for just the press LEDs but if you split off for more I would get a better Power Supply. I wanted to run the RCBS Charge Master off that PS too as it has the same connector & once I had everything apart I realized the CM uses a 9V PS. That reminds me... the light bar will run on 9V as I had it plugged into the RCBS CM PS until I got the other stuff sorted out. Also the old Halogen desk lamp is now LED. I was able to roll a cylinder with 9 LEDs stuffed in place of the 20W halogen bulb. Still looks original & kept the reflector & plenty bright as the halogen @ 1/10th of the power.

3M trim adhesive is exactly what I used for the angled plate to press. I put 3 layers of heat shrink on the end of the LED strip so it was hard to get it to bend sharply to run wire down the post. Zip tie helped hold it from peeling off, still using original adhesive on the LEDs. Wires are tucked in for clean install.

I use the Lee turret for recapping rifle brass. I can shorten the stroke of the arm so I don't wear out MY arm. Pistol gets decapped in the loadmaster with case feeder. I hogged out a Lee wood ball for the RCBS RC. I like the feel of wood, all my cars have wood shift knobs. I do want to shorten the handle on the RC.

Everything I bought came Amazon Prime. I will get some links.
Adjustable Handles I used
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GKZ5RLG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power supply
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034GUEY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4-way DC power splitter & I used heat shrink over the connectors to keep the splitter from pulling out.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHUGL7W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used these connectors with screw terminals. you get 10 male & 10 female. Just Tin the tips of the wires so they do not break off when screwed. I wanted to have the option of wire length exactly what I needed. Wire I used is just car speaker wire that comes with speakers.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LFDSM6K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Light bar... 1 meter long & it comes with end caps, diffuser lens & mounting clips.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9Q602M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[vwpieces]

Forgot to mention...

For bin rails I just use aluminum angle screwed to the edge of the bench. I also use the 7in long Akro bins. $1.42 each from Zoro tools on ebay. It's sick to see reloading companies selling 5in bins for $5-8 each. Besides, 5in is too small. Heavy cardboard cut from ammo boxes make good walls for the bins. Just cut to fit the label slot.

I use Steel Lee bench plates for all the presses. But the 1/4-20 bolts are weak if you can only use 2 like on my Rock Chucker. I am going to get some elevator bolts in 5/16in for the RC. Sad to admit but my reloading bench is an OLD computer cart I had for 15, maybe 20, years. Excellent quality & it's actually made of 3/4in plywood for the walls & shelves and ONE inch thick top. Has to be 100lbs of bullets, powder & primers on the shelves & bins. It doesn't move. The 2X6 across the top has ( 3/8in bolts holding it & the bench plate.

If you are looking for another 3in height, I would make my own riser with wood. Cross some 2X4s or 2X6s like this--> #, screwing & gluing them. It will be reinforcement for the bench & a riser. Make the platform larger than needed & some aluminum angle on the edges for bins.

HMM, now what to do with the other 3.5 meters of LEDs  Maybe another light bar on the ceiling to light up that corner better. It seems all my flash lights are at the bench.... I even have a hook to hang one there, eyes ain't what they used to be.

[tdogg]

I stand corrected.  I just looked at my LED strip spec's and it is 14.4 Watt/meter.  That I think is at ~13-14 volts.  That equals .24 watts/LED.  I can safely run about 30-40  LED's (2/3's of a meter) with my power supply (giving the power supply a little factor of safety).  Since I'm at 12v the actual power per LED is less than the spec adding even more of a cushion.

Cheers,
Toby