Silly questions about working on my 75B

[Independent George]

I got my surplus 75B from J&G Sales last week, and started with a detailed strip & clean, because it was filthy. It was otherwise in pretty good condition, but positively filthy. I do have a few questions, though:

1. I can't unscrew the trigger bar spring (part #35) to remove the trigger bar spring or the magazine spring. It won't budge at all. How can I tell if it's been sealed with locktite? I don't see any obvious rust, but the screw is jammed in there pretty tight. How do I get it out? WD-40? It's not a big deal if I can't unscrew it, but my OCD insists on cleaning everything, and the magazine release is a gritty and can probably use a polish.
2. Can I replace the lanyard pin with a standard hammer plug pin (part #23)?
3. I feel dumb for asking this, but... I have the CGW trigger pin, which comes with a small roll pin (which connects the trigger to the trigger bar), and a larger, barbell-shaped pin which holds the trigger return spring in. Is the barbell-shaped pin just a slave pin to make it easier to get the OEM trigger bar pin back in? Or is it meant to be left in the gun?
4. What's the best way to get the safety detent back into the gun?

[Googe1227]

I got my surplus 75B from J&G Sales last week, and started with a detailed strip & clean, because it was filthy. It was otherwise in pretty good condition, but positively filthy. I do have a few questions, though:

1. I can't unscrew the trigger bar spring (part #35) to remove the trigger bar spring or the magazine spring. It won't budge at all. How can I tell if it's been sealed with locktite? I don't see any obvious rust, but the screw is jammed in there pretty tight. How do I get it out? WD-40? It's not a big deal if I can't unscrew it, but my OCD insists on cleaning everything, and the magazine release is a gritty and can probably use a polish. Try WD40 first.  It that doesn't work, try heating up the screw head with a hair dryer or a solder iron to break the loctite bond; if it's actually loctite this should work.
2. Can I replace the lanyard pin with a standard hammer plug pin (part #23)? Yes. CZ USA and CZ Custom sell flush mainspring plugs.
3. I feel dumb for asking this, but... I have the CGW trigger pin, which comes with a small roll pin (which connects the trigger to the trigger bar), and a larger, barbell-shaped pin which holds the trigger return spring in. Is the barbell-shaped pin just a slave pin to make it easier to get the OEM trigger bar pin back in? Or is it meant to be left in the gun? The barbell shaped pin is the actual trigger pin.  The smaller pin is the slave pin. Put the trigger, trigger return spring and trigger bar together with the slave pin; get this assembly into position by lining it up with the holes in the frame and then push the new trigger pin through.  Slave pin will fall out on the other side of the frame.
4. What's the best way to get the safety detent back into the gun?

  See above for some thoughts in green.

[cntrydawwwg]

Trigger bar spring screw is probably staked in.
    Edited[emoji6]

[1SOW]

Trigger bar spring screw is probably staked in. Once you get it out make sure to loctite back in.

+1.   OR you can buy a staking punch at CZC and elsewhere.
I've had to retighten mine at the range (without loctite or staking after I had it out),  and have helped another CZ 75 shooter do the same at a match.  It's just a matter of time if you don't secure the screw.

[Independent George]

1. Try WD40 first.  It that doesn't work, try heating up the screw head with a hair dryer or a solder iron to break the loctite bond; if it's actually loctite this should work.
2. Can I replace the lanyard pin with a standard hammer plug pin (part #23)? Yes. CZ USA and CZ Custom sell flush mainspring plugs.
3.The barbell shaped pin is the actual trigger pin.  The smaller pin is the slave pin. Put the trigger, trigger return spring and trigger bar together with the slave pin; get this assembly into position by lining it up with the holes in the frame and then push the new trigger pin through.  Slave pin will fall out on the other side of the frame.

Thanks. I installed the CGW trigger pin in my PCR without using the slave pin, or even seeing why I would need one; I could push the trigger pin in with my thumb, and had no idea where a slave pin would ever come into play. After a while, it got me nervous and had me thinking maybe I left the slave pin in the entire time (especially since, well, I can push it out with my thumb...).

[Independent George]

Trigger bar spring screw is probably staked in. Once you get it out make sure to loctite back in.

+1.   OR you can buy a staking punch at CZC and elsewhere.
I've had to retighten mine at the range (without loctite or staking after I had it out),  and have helped another CZ 75 shooter do the same at a match.  It's just a matter of time if you don't secure the screw.

Ok, I've got an even dumber set of questions:

1. What does being staked in mean?
2. How do I remove it?
3. How do I re-stake it, if I should decide to do so?
4. Is the blue locktite sufficient to hold it in place, or do I need the red?

[schmeky]

I'll throw in my .02 cents worth.

Loctiting the #35 screw is a big mistake.  Huge.  There is a reason CZ-UB stakes it in place.  If the screw head ever strips, and it does quite often, you have to mill off the screw head, which is not overly difficult, then you can easily screw the remaining post out. 

If you Loctite, and the screw head strips (and remember, it does this often), then the post is nearly impossible to remove = toasted frame.

Ask me how I know 

[Googe1227]

Live and learn, eh David? Great advice. 

[cntrydawwwg]

Thanks for your $.02 Schmeky. That was something I didn't know. Food for thought.

      George,
1. Staking is when they use a staking tool to hit the edge of the screw head, hammer pin etc. it puts a small dimple in it into the frame or what have you and kinda ties them together.

2. I've never had to do it myself. I've seen posts where guys put pistol in vise,use a good fitting screw driver, keep downward pressure on screw driver, and use pliers or vise grips to pop it loose. Once it pops loose you should be good to go.

3. You can by a staking tool at CZC, Brownells, Midway, etc.

4. In light of Schmeky's post, I guess I'd just stake it back to be on the safe side[emoji6]

[1SOW]

2. How do I remove it?

Use the proper/perfect fit screwdriver.  If there's slop between the screwdriver blade and the screw slot,  that's a great way to damage the screw head/slot.

As cntry said,  holding the frame immobile is also a good thing.

Some have said theIr's wasn't that hard to remove.  Other's said the opposite.  Mine have always come out with a lot of force needed,  but they came out with just a good fitting common screwdriver and some grunting.