Aluminum vs Polymer Handguard - Heat

[DaddyWilson]

Apologies if this has already been answered, but which handguard manages felt heat best? Will the polymer handguard hold up under the heat? Are gloves mandatory with both? Trying to weigh options for my new vz2008. I guess fitting on the vz2008 is important as well. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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[DaddyWilson]

No one has any experience to contribute regarding the two handguards/rails?

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[RSR]

I think the silence is likely due to this being something that using this forum/it's members as a resource and searching backthreads can quickly answer for you... 

Generally, when it's your first post and you expect folks to waste their time googling or rehasing well-covered topics for you, it's not the best first impression...

But congrats on your new rifle, and welcome.  After due diligence/searching, if you still have questions, post back.

[muggia59]

Hey Daddywilson. I can only attest to the polymer lower that it will hold up to heat, as in not melt. Still gets hot. I added 2 picatinny rails to the sides, and a palm grip on the bottom. Those rubber covers for ar's went on the rails. Made it a little fat, but comfortable to grip. Left the beaver barf on the 2nd VZ, but also added picatinnys and palm grip. I generally use gloves with the beaver barf. Don't have an aluminum lower, so cant attest to that. I assume it would get hot. Some guys (and gals) have added heat shields. Scroll down the previous posts. You are bound to find what you are looking for. Welcome.

[DaddyWilson]

Awesome info. I apologize for not providing all details regarding my prior research. I learned about this awesome platform approx two weeks ago when a buddy let me shoot his and provided some info about it. I knew then I'd get one and that I had a heat issue to address. I've been researching this platform the entire time. I figured that polymer must hold up with all of the reviews out there and nothing mentioning an issue, but wanted to verify. I've seen people mention that the aftermarket guards dissipate heat due to ventilation, but hadn't seen anyone really state to what extent. I've also seen people say that aluminum would cool off faster, but common sense would appear to imply that aluminum would also heat up faster. I've seen the heat shield for beaver barf on ebay and think retaining the beaver barf would be cool for looks, but I also look to add a reflex sight and not confident in my ability to modify the beaver barf by adding ventilation/rails. Adding a aftermarket rail would help with both adding a sight and heat management with less chance of personal error messing things up. Now I have to deal with potential fitting issues on aftermarket handrails. I've seen people say that the Fab handrails have to be modified to fit the VZ2008, which can leave the upper handrail unstable and unfit for retaining a zero. Trust me when I say that I don't walk into a situation expecting others to research for me. Polymer may be the best option since it will be easier to modify than aluminum for fitting purposes. I guess I can add a stubby vertical grip for heat as well. Just concerned that the upper rail won't be stable. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks.

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[muggia59]

The North Eastern Arms upper rail is the one on mine. Cowitnesses with a Bushnell red dot. The various uppers that are available seem pretty tight with the retaining pin.

[DaddyWilson]

Gotcha. Did you have to modify the NEA upper at all for fitting?

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[muggia59]

Nope.

[CitizenPete]

Nope.

Hows your pin?  tight? 

The NEA upper fits on the vz2008 pretty tight (good thing for holding optic zero), but I can't seem to adjust the QD pin so it is field removable.  Its so tight I have to hammer it out of the sight block, then it still pops all the way out from the plunger and spring if I am not careful.

[gwvt]

CP, in my case, what you are describing was due to the holes for the pin in the hg and the rear sight block being slightly misaligned. Over the course of time, as I was shaving down the mating surfaces on the hg, the pin got easier to move. There was a point for awhile where I had to insert the pin partway into the block and then use the pin to slightly lever the hg forward until the holes were better aligned and then I could put it in / pull it out. After some use this became unnecessary and it now goes in and out more easily.

My suggestion is to either shave the mating surfaces a little more if you have already done that, or slightly open up the pin holes on the hg if the mating surfaces are not shaved already.

[RSR]

Install and uninstall and add some grease to sides of RSB and retaining pin after you install and uninstall a dozen times or so to get some teflon/anodizing removed from both weapon and rail surfaces where needed...

Back threads, I describe how you can use CNCW OE retaining detent and spring to get the pin to not pull all the way out...  The ball bearing stock setup is pretty ineffective on the NEA uppers...  Basically, trim OE spring in half and then use the OE detent.  I haven't had the OE detent migrate through the hole like the bearing either when I pull the pin out.

[muggia59]

Lol. I have 1 back up spring and plunger left. I think I have the slow system of slowly pushing the pin out down. I actually started out with 4 sets. If I look hard enough behind and around my work bench, I might find the 2 missing ones (yeah, right). Sorry Daddy Wilson. Forgot about the NASA certified spring and plunger.