Decocker question for RAMi

[Smokngun]

My Rami is back together and the decocker is loose.  I can decoct the gun with it but then it hangs loose.  Has anyone ever experienced this?

[cntrydawwwg]

Do you have pics? Did you have to rebuild the sear cage? I'm thinking a spring isn't quite where it should be.

[Friar_Tuck]

I would first look at the upper spring arm that is facing left.   It needs to be down in the notch in the decocker.

[Smokngun]

I had it cerakoted and I am not sure what he did.  It will decock but the lever is loose.  Is there a good instructional video for me to use to take it down and try myself?  I will post pics if I can figure out how.

[cntrydawwwg]

Here's a few threads
http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?PHPSESSID=2eb97a85fab0fbb79fc3155878f6193d&topic=62123.msg410719#msg410719
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?p=7564021&posted=1
   If you can get pics we may be able to help also.

[BDG]

If you press down on the decocking lever mounted in the sear cage (not the control lever) just the lever in the cage, it should be under spring tension and be heavy to press. If it moves easily the spring has not been reset properly. You cannot visually inspect this because it is on the bottom of the sear cage. Therefore you need to press to confirm tension and proper movement.
 

[Smokngun]

I pressed the lever and it is not under tension.  I am going to try and fix it myself.  I hope that is not a mistake. 

[BDG]

Follow the video provided by Cntrydawwg and you should be fine.
Be careful and mind the 3 (2 in your case) springs that are under tension. They can launch up to 2 miles , well may as well be that far...
While the sear cage is apart I polish the "pocket" under the spur of the controller and the barring surface of the lever int the sear cage for a smooth decocking action that allows me to ride the hammer to the decocked position. Not a necessary step...just completes a refined custom feel to all the controls.
Big satisfaction and pride are headed your way my friend.

[Friar_Tuck]

My only warning is to make sure and make a slave pin before you start.

[cntrydawwwg]

As BDG said, just go slow. Since its your first time I would recommend taking it apart using a gallon bag. That will contain those springs from flying around. (Especially the lifter spring. It's tiny and easy to lose[emoji6])
   If you run into issues, post back. Someone will be able to walk you thru any problems.

Edit to add..... Yes, forgot the slave pin. Good catch Friar. A lot of people cut a cue tip just a hair narrower than the sear cage. Makes it so much easier to put together.

[Smokngun]

Thanks all.  I will get on it as soon as I get back from duck hunting.  The gallon bag is genius.  I need to learn the guts of these pistols anyways. 

[Friar_Tuck]

I am guessing you should not have to take the sear cage apart and have the springs fly all over if you start by making a slave pin that is less than .115" diameter, by just under .700" long.  use a punch to start the sear cage pin out from the right, after removing decocker lever and sear pin retaining washer.  once the sear pin starts moving, use the slave pin to tap it out, so that the sear pin comes out, leaving the slave pin holding the cage together. Then look at the bottom of the cage from the rear, and see if the leg of the spring is where the red line shows it to be.  I will wager that it is not, and just needs to be manipulated back there.  If that is the case, you should be able to do the repair without removing (Watching them go into orbit) any of the springs.

[Friar_Tuck]

As you can see, I am a newbie, and far from an expert of any kind, but here is why I believe the spring is in the wrong place.
Notice the decocking lever in your cage is not being held back in place, which would also put the pressure on your decocker to stay solid in place.


In this photo you can see where it should set while at rest.

[cntrydawwwg]

Good eye Friar[emoji6] that may be it. It's easy to for get to load that spring after putting the sear cage together. I know from experience. [emoji2]
    Had a bad night fitting a disco one time. Had to take it out like six times. 5 of those times the slave pin didn't cooperate to well. Let's just say I'm not to afraid of having to put the sear cage together anymore. [emoji6]

[BDG]

Yes, the slave pin!
Be careful when using a Q-tip. Some do this with no issues. However, paper from the Q-tip can be shaved from the Q-tip when pushing it through the sear cage and cause you issues. It was also documented here somewhere that a Q-tip grabbed the lifter spring on the way through the sear cage and bound on the frame.
Just be diligent and careful when improvising tools.

Note: the sear pin removes right to left and installs left to right with the slave pin exiting the right side of the frame. Frame exit hole is smaller than the sear pin so it will not follow the slave pin through  the hole.
Since you're not doing the work right away I suggest you order a slave pin from CGW.
This will likely not be the last time you disassemble your pistol and you will have the exact part needed for all future work. While you're at it, order a FPBL lifter spring or two.