Caution using Frog Lube in the Rami...

[Tok36]

^^ We want pics ^^.   CD i think it is because this stuff is made from frogs. Frogs are related to gators. The CGW mascot is a gator...........

You've heard the expression "slicker than snake shiite" -- maybe that's an indication, herpetologically speaking...

Snake droppings, now i get it. It makes the parts slither agents each other. Maybe if you introduce some sand to the equation you will get an even better result. Snakes move surprisingly fast on sand, even when they are doing their business. 

Anyway, thanks for being a sport Meataxe. Ill curb the lubricant humor for now. I owe you one free jab sir.

As to the forum topic, i do believe that it is a good idea to avoid using any lubricants in the CZ75 FP channel and FP its self. Early on i used a bit of a few different lubricants and it always seamed to collect more gunk than offer any advantage. The way i justify it is that the FP is moving really fast as well as being struck with allot of force. So lubricants may not offer the same advantage that they do a slide rail. I really did think the FP needed to be lubricated for a while. The things you learn...

[MeatAxe]

^^ We want pics ^^.   CD i think it is because this stuff is made from frogs. Frogs are related to gators. The CGW mascot is a gator...........

You've heard the expression "slicker than snake shiite" -- maybe that's an indication, herpetologically speaking...

Snake droppings, now i get it. It makes the parts slither agents each other. Maybe if you introduce some sand to the equation you will get an even better result. Snakes move surprisingly fast on sand, even when they are doing their business. 

Anyway, thanks for being a sport Meataxe. Ill curb the lubricant humor for now. I owe you one free jab sir.

As to the forum topic, i do believe that it is a good idea to avoid using any lubricants in the CZ75 FP channel and FP its self. Early on i used a bit of a few different lubricants and it always seamed to collect more gunk than offer any advantage. The way i justify it is that the FP is moving really fast as well as being struck with allot of force. So lubricants may not offer the same advantage that they do a slide rail. I really did think the FP needed to be lubricated for a while. The things you learn...

$%*& me!

Now I'm seeing it all over the internet: Frog Lube turns into maple syrup inside your firearm after the initial first few applications. I admit I got sucked into the initial hype (with not much negative feedback on the inter webs at that time). Frog Lube works fine at first, then it gums up the works after a few applications

I get it now: Frog Lube = Snake Oil

Anyone have any experience with Slip 2000 EWL? According to reports, it does what Frog Lube is supposed to do without gumming up the works...

Otherwise, it's back to tried but true Hoppes No.9 for cleaning  with Tetra Lube...and re-lube often.

[cntrydawwwg]

Sorry about the issues Meataxe. Sounds like a lot of guys really like Froglube, (even if it is made from frogs as Tok suggested[emoji57])
   Can't help with the Slip 2000. I was raised as a Hoppes (both solvent and lube) man myself until I had a bolt action .06 freeze up 20 years ago. (Literally, it was about -20 that hunting season [emoji50])
   Been a CLP Breakfree person ever since. Cleaner and lube in one. (And maybe a dab of CGW Molly every now and then. )
   Cleaner and lube is a personal decision. As long as it works for you, that's all the matters.

[schmeky]

We had several CZ's sent to our shop in the past year that would not work.  They were "gummed" up with frog lube.

[rbschneider1]

"We had several CZ's sent to our shop in the past year that would not work.  They were "gummed" up with frog lube."

Is it the FrogLube itself, or how it was applied?

If the gun is gummed up, sounds like it wasn't properly applied per instructions. Been using FrogLube for 3+ years without any issues.

[Mathi]

Hi!

This may be indeed but if applying of a lubrication is made to a scientific entertainment this will not be applicable to each user.
Thats why I love my way to lube my guns. The used lubes don't care if a former used lube is not totally removed before applying it.
In general I think if everyone uses to clean and relube his guns properly and frequently he (or she) will never get into problems or has to send a gun in with gummed up guns caused by lube.
This all is regardless to the folks who overdo something and then face in a problem.

Best regards
Mathi

[Tok36]

$%*& me!

Now I'm seeing it all over the internet: Frog Lube turns into maple syrup inside your firearm after the initial first few applications. I admit I got sucked into the initial hype (with not much negative feedback on the inter webs at that time). Frog Lube works fine at first, then it gums up the works after a few applications

I get it now: Frog Lube = Snake Oil

Anyone have any experience with Slip 2000 EWL? According to reports, it does what Frog Lube is supposed to do without gumming up the works...

Otherwise, it's back to tried but true Hoppes No.9 for cleaning  with Tetra Lube...and re-lube often.

I use Slip 2000 EWL, it works well enough. It seamed to run out of the frame rails and a few places while in the safe so i switched to CGW grease for the rails and internals. It stays in place and if you apply it sparingly it dose not make much of a mess. I do not have the cold to contend with though, as cntrydawwwg mentioned CLP breakfree is know to be good for the cold.

[Mathi]

A lube is a lube is a lube is a lube and it lubes!
There no space science or so in need, you can use indeed some door hinge oil or even chicken grease if you maintain your gun frequently enough.
All those other good advertised benefits by the manufactorers are not really necessary but this knowledge comes with long decades of experience........to some of the users with brains.
And remember: crucially is the guy behind the gun and the skills with aiming and triggering. No space age lube can replace this.
But allegedly there are some folks out there who don't even know how to disassemble there firearm and believe in everything they where told. Maybe the same to people who cannot realize a problem with their car if some sounds sudde nlyare other than usually. I don't know but one of my mainlines in life is: everybody should do it his way and be happy with it!

Best regards
Mathi

[mig1nc]

I also have been using froglube for a couple of years now in ARs. No problems there at all.

Weather is southeastern United States.

I generally stick to other things for pistols though. Gunzilla for one. It's thin, but mostly I use it on guns that don't need to be run very wet. Like M&Ps and Walthers for example.

I like both of those because they are both green and non-toxic and smell fine so I can clean guns indoors with the A/C running.

[SteveR2013]

Everyone seems to have their own ideas about lubrication. I clean with Hoppe's #9 after every use, or if a pistol has been standing for any length of time. I then lubricate moving surfaces with Lubriplate:- https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Automotive-Lubricants-Motor-Oils/Lubriplate-No-105-Motor-Assembly-Grease.html. Brownells also sells Lubriplate but is cheaper at NAPA.
I transfer the Lubriplate from the bulk tube to small hypodermics. That way I can control the amount of grease applied to any surface without getting it everywhere.
Seems to work fine for me and does not gum up the works. In the past when I was shooting a lot more (every weekend) then CLP Breakfree was my cleaner lubricant of choice.

[MeatAxe]

$%*& me!

Now I'm seeing it all over the internet: Frog Lube turns into maple syrup inside your firearm after the initial first few applications. I admit I got sucked into the initial hype (with not much negative feedback on the inter webs at that time). Frog Lube works fine at first, then it gums up the works after a few applications

I get it now: Frog Lube = Snake Oil

Anyone have any experience with Slip 2000 EWL? According to reports, it does what Frog Lube is supposed to do without gumming up the works...

Otherwise, it's back to tried but true Hoppes No.9 for cleaning  with Tetra Lube...and re-lube often.

I use Slip 2000 EWL, it works well enough. It seamed to run out of the frame rails and a few places while in the safe so i switched to CGW grease for the rails and internals. It stays in place and if you apply it sparingly it dose not make much of a mess. I do not have the cold to contend with though, as cntrydawwwg mentioned CLP breakfree is know to be good for the cold.

Yeah, I'm going to give Slip 2000 a try. They make several compatible products (EWL. 30 wt, grease, etc.) that seem to do what Frog Lube is supposed to do without gumming up -- at least I haven't heard of any potential catastrophic failures with Slip 2000, and it's been out for several years.

[GRU7_Mike]

"We had several CZ's sent to our shop in the past year that would not work.  They were "gummed" up with frog lube."

Is it the FrogLube itself, or how it was applied?

If the gun is gummed up, sounds like it wasn't properly applied per instructions. Been using FrogLube for 3+ years without any issues.

Yep...I agree, may not be the Frog Lube ....how applied could well be it.  Like your car manual says use 10W20 oil.........you buy the best 10W-20 on the market ........then you put it in the gas tank....not going to work well there!!!!

[MeatAxe]

"We had several CZ's sent to our shop in the past year that would not work.  They were "gummed" up with frog lube."

Is it the FrogLube itself, or how it was applied?

If the gun is gummed up, sounds like it wasn't properly applied per instructions. Been using FrogLube for 3+ years without any issues.

Yep...I agree, may not be the Frog Lube ....how applied could well be it.  Like your car manual says use 10W20 oil.........you buy the best 10W-20 on the market ........then you put it in the gas tank....not going to work well there!!!!

Anything that even has the potential to gum up like molasses in a firearm -- especially when application instructions are followed to the letter --  is not going into my guns anymore, especially self defense guns.

You never know when/if Frog Lube has been over applied -- until it gets gummed up and stops up your firearm dead in its tracks. You can apply it one minute and have it cycle just fine, but wait a few days until it gums up and you'll be up bleep Creek without a paddle if a SHTF situation befalls you.

[BDG]

I had to go back and re-read the original post to see how it got to this point.
As the Subject states, The problem is clearly the Rami. 

[MeatAxe]

I had to go back and re-read the original post to see how it got to this point.
As the Subject states, The problem is clearly the Rami. 

The RAMI seems particularly vulnerable to Frog Lube when it gets into the piston-type recoil spring assembly.

When the Frog Lube decides to congeal, it turns the recoil spring into hydraulic shock absorber. Plus, when it gums up inside a firing pin channel, it causes light firing pin strikes / misfires, but I found that true in an AK (of all things) as well.

Overall, I'd say that Frog Lube is bad for any firearm you actually intend to shoot (i.e. self-defense weapons). However, it works great if you want to completely rust-proof your firearm before you put it in long-term storage.