The majority of my experience with nickel plated brass is with revolver rounds in .38 Special, .357 Magnum, .44 Magnum, and .45 Colt, but I do have quite a bit of it in 9x19, .40 S&W and .45 acp. I've found that nickel plated brass will split noticeably sooner than yellow brass of the same caliber. In .38 Special, .357 Magnum and .45 Colt, I shoot those in revolvers and rifles, but I confine my use of plated brass to the revolvers. If a case splits in a rifle, the extractor won't pull it from the chamber and the you're dead in the water in a match if that happens.
Oft times, nickel brass won't give any indication that it's going to give up the ghost until it actually does. That's not really a problem in a revolver, other than making that case harder to eject.
I've got nickel cases where the plating is flaking off, etc. in both .38 Spl and .45 Colt. I also have cases that have been loaded and tumbled so many times the plating is worn off to the point it's almost gone.
In 9x19, .40 S&W and .45 acp calibers, I normally just save plated brass up until I have enough to mess with and then I'll use it to delineate a specific loading. When picking up my brass in the gravel at our range, I find the nickel brass harder to see, but then my yellow brass sparkles and really stands out!
Hope this helps.
Fred