Author Topic: Musing about rifle bedding  (Read 1280 times)

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Offline rwortman

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Musing about rifle bedding
« on: August 28, 2016, 05:04:07 PM »
I tweaked the trigger on my 527 before I shot it.  I saw that it was bedded at the recoil lug only with a little blob of some sort of epoxy putty.  Now that I have been to the range and seen what my 527 will do I wonder what this means.  Does it mean that in light recoiling calibers like my .223 that all this fuss about bedding, pillars and such is just guys that like to mess about with guns?  Winchester made a boatload of pretty good shooting model 70's with  a squirt of hot melt glue on the recoil lug in some fairly hard hitting calibers.  Makes me wonder if the millions of words on the 'net about how to bed a rifle action and all the different opinions about how much glue, where, and what kind might be a whole lot of fussing about what accounts for only that last little bit of performance that most people don't need and can't shoot well enough to tell if it's there.

Offline Trblshtr

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Re: Musing about rifle bedding
« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2016, 04:41:12 AM »
One benefit of a good bedding job is a reduction of variability brought on by environmental changes such as humidity and temperature.  Plus, I like to mess about with guns.  ;)
Steve

Offline M1A4ME

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Re: Musing about rifle bedding
« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2016, 06:56:39 AM »
The most extreme example I've seen with factory vs. bedded was with a buddy's Rem. 700 in .222 Remington.  A light recoiling caliber, yes.  He had a 3X9 scope on it and shot Remington factory 50 grain soft points in it most of the time.

As you worked the magazine empty the group got larger as the point of impact, even at 100 yds., worked up and to the right.  After 5 rounds you'd have a group the size of the palm of your hand.

We removed the bump in the barrel channel, removed wood from the area of the stock where the receiver made contact (from front to back) and about 3 inches in front of the front trigger guard bolt. 

We used Brownell's acraglass.  Followed the instructions and had some of the materials left over.

A day later we took it out of the vice, popped it out of the stock, cleaned all the release compound off of it, wiped it down with an oily rag and put it back in the stock.

We took it down on an old farm near the river and measured out 100 yds. and he shot 5 shots.  I don't remember the groups size at 100 yds.  I do remember that when we added another 50 yds. to it (one side of the field to the other) he shot another 5 shot group.  That one was covered by a dime.

Palm (of your hand) sized 5 shot groups at 100 yds. to dime sized 5 shot groups at 150 yds.  He was "extremely" happy with his old rifle after that.

On another note, in three years of ground hog hunting I never saw him kill a ground hog.  Why?  It doesn't matter how tight a group you can shoot with your rifle if you keep thinking the ground hog is 200 yds. away instead of 125 and you shoot over their heads every time.

There's a reason why the big rifle teams have their rifles bedded.
I just keep wasting time and money on other brands trying to find/make one shoot like my P07 and P09.  What is wrong with me?

Offline rwortman

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Re: Musing about rifle bedding
« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2016, 03:24:44 PM »
I do believe it works.  Just wondering if it is necessary all the time.  A lot of reviews of pretty tight shooting factory rifles that are minimally bedded. Enough that when I restocked my .270 I only bedded the recoil lug and a bit of barrel in front of it.  Haven't shot it yet but it shot ok with the dab of hot melt in the original stock. Maybe they get even better when fully bedded.  I guess it depends on what you are going to do with it.  Here in the East it's hard to get far away enough from something for better than 1 MOA to matter in a hunting situation.  If you just like tweaking guns for max performance, I get that too.