dummykid--
This is against my normal instincts, but I would suggest you go shoot the gun, as is, before deciding what else to do. But I would do it like this. At the range, with everything safe, and the range hot, load a single round in the magazine, aim the gun downrange, chamber the round, and fire. If the slide locks back and fired OK, drop the magazine, load two rounds in the magazine, and fire them, one at a time. If the gun functions normally, try 3 rounds, then 4. What you don't want to do is load 10 rounds initially without knowing for sure that the gun won't go full auto. You need to see for yourself that the hammer remains cocked between shots.
Here is the reason for the caution. I have not been able to modify a factory CZ hammer without getting hammer follow and making the gun unsafe. I've done many 1911s and a few Sigs, so I thought I could fix up the CZ as well. I didn't know that the CZ geometry is different and isn't amenable to the usual modifications like shorting the hammer hooks and reducing the engagement on the sear. It is too easy to create an unsafe gun, so one has to assume the gun is NOT safe until proven otherwise, after changing parts.
Your gunsmith may know how sensitive the CZ's are to hammer and sear modifications. If so, maybe your pistol is OK. But, if he just assumed he could do the work without test firing and safety checking the gun in live fire, you need to confirm for yourself that he didn't mess it up, regardless of how good his intentions were.
The only sear/hammer tool that always works with the CZ pistols is a credit card. Even with the CGW parts, I load two rounds, then 3, etc. first time I shoot it. Never had any problem with the CGW parts, always had problems with modified factory parts. I'm not even a good amateur (CZ pistol) gunsmith, LOL. I'm not saying modifications simply can't be done, I am saying it takes a lot of experience to get it right.
Joe
Joe
