Trigger bar and decocker model

[redlightrich]

Hello all, my apologies if this has been covered already. I could not find it. Based on what I read, it appears that if you remove the main trigger to frame pin, you can then "pull out" the trigger and trigger bar from under the sear/safety assembly.

Does this same procedure apply to a decocker model? Specifically a PCR. I  am going to change out the trigger, and "smooth out" the back of the trigger bar ( as CGW) has shown, and I want to know if I am in for any surprises. So to simply state my question,

Does the trigger bar come out the same way for both safety and decocker models?

Thank you

Rich

[Jake G]

No, because the disconnector is going to retain the trigger bar in both decocker and safety model guns. Maybe this would be possible in a SAO model that doesn't have a disco?  Get the slave pin from CGW and follow the instructions on how to remove the sear cage assembly.

[viking499]

No, because the disconnector is going to retain the trigger bar in both decocker and safety model guns. Maybe this would be possible in a SAO model that doesn't have a disco?  Get the slave pin from CGW and follow the instructions on how to remove the sear cage assembly.

I have removed the trigger and trigger bar without removing the sear cage

[redlightrich]

Hello, and thank you for your responses, but it now appears that we have conflicting information, added to what I have seen on the net. I saw a video of a person taking the trigger bar out, it was on a safety model, and all they did is remove the frame/trigger pin and pull the assembly towards the front of the gun ( after the slide assembly was removed of course). He did a little polish on the rear face, and slid it back. I watched a second vid of the same process.
Now, is it possible that they have removed parts, then installed some of them, shot the vid and added the missing parts? I guess so, but I am hearing from a person here who claims that he did it as I described.

Can a third person please weigh in. Hopefully someone who has actually done these tasks on both safety and decocker models?


Thank you

Rich

[tdogg]

Rich,

Why do you want to pull the trigger bar without removing the sear/ejector cage? 

If you are doing an action polish job, there are parts under the sear/ejector cage that should be polished.  I would get or make a slave pin and pull out those parts for polishing. 

That said, I'm not sure you can remove the trigger bar without pulling the sear/ejector cage out?  I think Jake is right about the disconnector.

Cheers,
Toby

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[dlidster]

Rich,

Why do you want to pull the trigger bar without removing the sear/ejector cage? 

+1.

I've done a trigger job/internal parts polish on three CZ 75Bs (safety models). I've never figured out a way to get the trigger bar out without removing the sear cage. I don't want to pretend to read your intentions, but if you're asking because you're apprehensive about removing the sear cage, relax.

The first time you take the sear cage out and put it back in can be intimidating. But, if you'll work slowly and watch what you're doing, you'll find the job isn't all that terrible. After you've done it a few times, you won't hesitate to do it again. I'll have to be honest and say that reassembly can be a little maddening. But if you'll follow some of the instructions available on this forum you'll learn how to wiggle your way through. The technique, once mastered, will give you a great sense of pride.

[redlightrich]

The reason I ask, is because I want to change my trigger from the new recurve ( which gives me severe trigger slap)  to the 85c type. I do not intend to polish the surfaces on the trigger bar that work the sear. I would only polish the top of the trigger bar that rides up against the slide while I had it out.

I watched several videos on this, and they clearly show after the trigger pin is removed, they pull the bar forward and up at a steep angle. It appears to slide under the disconnector and the sear cage.

I appreciate the feedback, and yes, I see clearly that removing the decocker and sear cage is fairly straight forward. Move the little spring tab off the retaining notch, pull the decocker lever out the left side, remove the larger press fit pin and Viola!! I have even seen a slave pin made so the sear assembly stays completely assembled. I am aware that the sear cage can come out without too much drama.

I prefer not to remove any pieces from their factory state unless necessary. I am especially reluctant to remove pins that are a "press fit" that are in aluminum ( I am working on my PCR) as those tolerances can change, and press fit can loosen. Yes, I am being overly cautious. I realize removing the pin once will not prevent it from being secure when it is re-installed. I however work under the premise that I will not sell any firearms. I may sell accessories that I tried and for some reason don't want, but the actual firearms are hopefully never sold. I also know that sometime in the future, I may be forced to disassemble the firearm completely, but I would like to keep that to a minimum.

So let me ask my question a different way. Can I remove the trigger, hold the trigger bar up high enough to remove the small pin that connects the trigger to the trigger bar? If so, I can accomplish my task with a minimum of disturbance to the gun.

Thank you all for taking the time to help me. I apologize if my initial post was vague.

Rich

[tdogg]

I do believe you can swap triggers without pulling the trigger bar.  You will want the cgw trigger slave pin that comes with the floating trigger pin.  Not pulling the trigger bar will make the trigger swap way more difficult but if you don't want to disturb the rest of the gun I do think it is possible.

Fyi the sear cage retention pin is not press fit to the frame.  Once everything is lined up it will slide out with little force.  There is either a little disk that prevents the pin from walking out it is held in place by the decocker lever (I don't own a pcr but all decockers are the similar and I have both styles).

And yes you're being overly cautious, these things are tools that get hammered not precision instrument's.  To each his own.  Best of luck with your trigger swap, post up if you find anything interesting.

Cheers,
Toby

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[redlightrich]

Thank you all very much. I will post results after I finish.

Regards

Rich

[Scarlett Pistol]

Thank you all very much. I will post results after I finish.

Regards

Rich

If you haven't already tried it I will give it a try in the morning and verify this for ya.

[redlightrich]

Hello all, my apologies for a delay in posting results, but I wanted this thread complete in case someone searches in the future.

Trigger, can easily be changed without disturbing the rest of the trigger bar. Long thin needle nose pliers make this easy. I am able to reinstall a reduced power trigger spring without a slave pin. I just grab the spring around the round center with a strong standard size needle nose pliers and hold in place while pushing the trigger pin thru.

The trigger bar ( on a decocker model) does not seem to want to come out without removing the sear cage. Some other guns may, but mine would not. I would imagine a SAO without a disco would come out.

Sear cage pin is a light press fit on the right side of the gun. The left side is not, but has a circular retainer, that slide into a notch and is held in by the decocking lever. The decocker lever removes similar to a safety. Raise the small spring, then push towards the left. When it is out, you can remove the circular retainer by driving it forward. Then the sear cage pin is removed right to left. I made a slave pin ( to hold the sear cage components together) from a nail. It is approximately .680 x .105. Please remember to bevel the edges of a home made slave pin so it easily guides itself thru.

By the way, either the 85c trigger, or the CGW old style 85c ( repro) trigger will be less curved that the original recurve, and will reduce the pain associated with pulling the recurve if you experience it. Not all people feel discomfort from the recurve.

Thank you for your replies, and again, my apologies for the late post

Rich