Punch broke off INSIDE the firing pin retaining pin.

[Samsquatch]

Got my new race hammer, springs, adjustable sear, and SAO trigger installed without a hiccup. When I went to remove my firing pin block I busted my punch off inside of the firing pin retaining pin.

When I started initially punching out the pin I thought it was pushing out the pin but was actually wedging the punch into the pin. I now realized that this happened because I used a 1/16 punch for the retaining pin which is too small  . It seemed to flare out the retaining pin and now I cannot get either out. Am I screwed?

[SPO1SHADOW]

No, take a smaller punch and drive out the broken part or a punch the size of the hole and drive the both out at once. Don't be afraid to knock the hell out of it, it will come out.

[Samsquatch]

No, take a smaller punch and drive out the broken part or a punch the size of the hole and drive the both out at once. Don't be afraid to knock the hell out of it, it will come out.

Already bent another 1/16 punch trying to get it out. The retaining pin is so far flared out that it's sitting flush with hole. Might just have to send this one into CGW. Any idea what they would charge to knock this out and put a new one in?

[silentbob]

I would try going from the other side with the correctly sized punch.  Perhaps rig up something to use a vice as a press to push it out, again going from the other side.  You don't want to push the side with the tip of the pin all the way through.

[Samsquatch]

I would try going from the other side with the correctly sized punch.  Perhaps rig up something to use a vice as a press to push it out, again going from the other side.  You don't want to push the side with the tip of the pin all the way through.

I was driving the pin from left to right(reference point if you were looking at the rear of the slide). Will the pin come out if I go from right to left? I thought it could only go one direction. Do you know the punch size needed for the retaining pin? This is on a SP-01

[cntrydawwwg]

Yes, you can go either way with the retaining pin. Sorry, can't remember the size, I used one large enough to punch out the inner and outer retaining pins at the same time.
   

[copemech]

Find a high quality 1/8 in roll pin punch if you can. A standard punch will work as well, although some may be a bit tight in the hole, as it is actually 3mm. If your punch is tight in the hole, place the punch in I drill and sand it down a bit.

[RMJack]

I feel for you - once you get stuck with something like this, it feels like sending it to the pro's is the least bad way to proceed.

I did something similar years ago with an Sig 226, ending up boogering it up so bad I had to send it back to Sig and $200 bucks for new parts.

I have to say, I never have this problem with my glocks.... A single punch, a flat screwdriver, and my rather anemic mechanical skills is still enough to do any work to a glock... :-)

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

I feel for you - once you get stuck with something like this, it feels like sending it to the pro's is the least bad way to proceed.

I did something similar years ago with an Sig 226, ending up boogering it up so bad I had to send it back to Sig and $200 bucks for new parts.

I have to say, I never have this problem with my glocks.... A single punch, a flat screwdriver, and my rather anemic mechanical skills is still enough to do any work to a glock... :-)

And making a mistake like this is an example of inexperience and or the lack of proper tools at hand not really an example of a design flaw in the weapon.
I do agree g locks are so simple even a cave man can work on them. They sure look like they were designed by one.

[Diamondbackmike2004]

looks like you got a free rollpin! lol jk

[M1A4ME]

I would put some oil on it, too.  Lubrication, even when trying to move something that doesn't get moved often, is a good thing.  If you elect to try to drive the broken piece out from the other side make sure you get a punch that is long enough and thin enough to pass through the inside of the roll pin.  Some punches have a very short stated diameter before beginning to taper thicker for strength.

The roll pin should be softer than the slide.  With the right size punch you should be able to drive the pin back out from the opposite side.

I normally keep a small (it's a tack hammer) hammer in my gun tool box for use when working on guns.  That works great most of the time.  Awhile back I was working on a gun that required some seriously hard swings of the hammer to get a pin started to moving.  That's not a good thing.  The harder you swing it, the more chance you've got of missing the punch, hitting your hand or the gun.  Get a bigger/heavier hammer.  You can swing is slower and keep better control of it and the increased weight of the hammer head will make up for the slower/lighter hammer swing that keeps you in better control of it.

[The Conservative]

I have to say, I never have this problem with my glocks.... A single punch, a flat screwdriver, and my rather anemic mechanical skills is still enough to do any work to a glock... :-)

The biggest drawback to working on a Glock is once you are finished it's still a Glock.

[TruckinThumper]

I had the same thing happen.

Broke out the fire.

I DID NOT heat the frame, I got the broken punch almost glowing and pulled it out with a set of vice grips.

YMMV

[Diamondbackmike2004]

I had the same thing happen.

Broke out the fire.

I DID NOT heat the frame, I got the broken punch almost glowing and pulled it out with a set of vice grips.

YMMV

I would be very hesitant to use flame due to the heat transfer from the broken tool to the frame/slide. Even a small change in the metallurgy could have possible disastrous results if the area around the hole was stressed. 

[tdogg]

As said before just get the right sized punch (a small 1/8 inch or 3mm) and push it all out the opposite direction.  There isn't a direction that roll pin has to come out it can come out on either side.  Make sure the slide is on a sturdy surface with clearance for the pins/punch under it and use some assertive hammer strikes (with care not to damage any finish).

I did the same thing the first time I pulled my firing pin out.  You can resolve this on your own.  A little penetrating oil would be good but it has to break free before it will easily start moving.

Cheers,
Toby