Barrel bushing questions/suggestions

[8strings8rounds]

I apologize if this belongs in the smithing section, but I wasn't sure where this is strictly 97 related.
Last night, I found that at 20 yards or so, I'm averaging about a 2-3" group off a bag. I occasionally have a round I cannot account for that's just off. Talking 6" off average in any direction, though they seem to pull to the left more often than not.
I am taking ammo and human error into consideration, but either way, got me thinking about how loose the barrel bushing is.
I will likely end up with the 1911 bushing conversion, but I can't afford to do that on top of everything else. I can, however, make small modifications at work. (besides, I like the look of the stock bushing)
Basically, I want to tighten up the factory bushing.
First option: I'm thinking maybe I could give it a few dips in the industrial chrome bath and try to build it up some. But the chrome goes on in microns and absolutely will not stick to any surfaces that are blued. So I'd have to strip the bushing somehow and dedicate some time to it.

Second option: I can turn the bushing on a lathe and shave the backside slowly until I can tighten it to a detent- which may be the way I go.

Next option: I have considered turning matching detent rings in the spring bushing and barrel bushing and using music wire as a lock ring..

Finally: I could write a program and just make a slightly oversized bushing on my machine at work.. Unfortunately, it's a production machine and it's not worth getting caught doing home projects on haha. I'm thinking a +.002" bushing would be a great option though if someone made it..

Just throwing ideas out there.

Anybody else doing anything to work with the stock parts?

[SPO1SHADOW]

If you can tighten the bushing up in the slide and make it clock for the guide rod I would say the accuracy would improve. To the extent it would improve is anyone's guess. I suppose it would have to do with how snug the stock bushing and barrel fit each other.

[schmeky]

The stock bushings flange is thin and if you were to bottom it out against the slides forward face, it would have a high probability of cracking. 

The stock threaded bushing configuration makes it difficult if not impossible to arrest movement since the bushing cannot be torqued fully. 

However the fun in improving is trying; nothing ventured, nothing gained.

[8strings8rounds]

Well. I tried machining the bushing to screw in a wee bit tighter- all went well until the test fire. Took about 3 rounds for the bushing to start backing out. There's just too much space between the barrel bushing and the guide rod doohickey.
Got a spare bushing on the way for the next test.. Haha

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[8strings8rounds]

The stock bushings flange is thin and if you were to bottom it out against the slides forward face, it would have a high probability of cracking. 

The stock threaded bushing configuration makes it difficult if not impossible to arrest movement since the bushing cannot be torqued fully. 

However the fun in improving is trying; nothing ventured, nothing gained.

I agree. It's a very delicate part to do much with.
I didn't take more than .0045" off of the backside to start, and I felt like I was weakening it.
Got a couple things to try, then I may eventually making my own bushing.. If I can make one slightly larger where it locks up, perhaps it'll hold onto the guide rod part more securely.
First, I want to see what I can do with another stock one.

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[SPO1SHADOW]

CGW's fix is a sure cure. There is no worry about it moving or cracking and for less than $200.00 it is cheap insurance. Just send it for a nose job. Problem solved.

[schmeky]

Something to keep in mind is the stock bushings tendency to rotate during recoil.  The reason is simple; the steel recoil spring plug is heavy enough to compress the recoil spring during full recoil when the slide abuts the frame.  The plug then retracts from the bushings flange, allowing the bushing to turn, pistol locks up. 

So if you make the threaded bushing more accurate, you still have to deal with the other issue. 

[8strings8rounds]

That is something I want to address if I make a new bushing.
My plan is to try and make a recoil spring housing that's a hair longer, a bushing with a thicker bezel/flange and have them lock together with a ring and a detent.
The ring/wire will have to be around the bushing, deep enough in the groove to allow the recoil spring housing to snap past it to a detent.

I don't know if it'll work, but I want to try before sending it in for a permanent mod.

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[schmeky]

A better solution is to machine a replacement recoil spring plug just like the OEM one, but out of aluminum, thus reducing the inertial mass of the plug.

I wish you good luck keeping the threaded design and making the bushing act like one that is not threaded. 

[8strings8rounds]

Thanks schmeky.
I could definitely try some 7075 aluminum. My thoughts with a ring were also creating a constant pressure in the same direction on the bushing. We'll see.

Expect a follow up with pictures in the near future.. Even if they're of a CGW 1911 bushing. lol

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[8strings8rounds]

Quick update:
I have a piece of 416 Stainless pre-turned and threaded awaiting an opening on one of the shop mills to cut the detents.
In the meantime, I had ordered a spare factory bushing and found it to fit far better than the bushing that came with the pistol. It has a larger thread OD and therefore allows far less movement in the slide- meaning far less barrel movement.
When I finish the homemade bushing and spring housing, I will post pictures of the process and before/after pics of my targets at the range!



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[Morbid1X]

Quick update:
I have a piece of 416 Stainless pre-turned and threaded awaiting an opening on one of the shop mills to cut the detents.
In the meantime, I had ordered a spare factory bushing and found it to fit far better than the bushing that came with the pistol. It has a larger thread OD and therefore allows far less movement in the slide- meaning far less barrel movement.
When I finish the homemade bushing and spring housing, I will post pictures of the process and before/after pics of my targets at the range!


I'd really like to see what you come up with.
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[8strings8rounds]

Me too lol.
Nah, feeling pretty good about it. I'm at a stand-still on my project right now because I'm training a couple new people at work. I'd say in about 2-3 weeks I'll have a finished trial with pictures. Then, if it works, I already got permission to heat treat any parts I need at work- so I'm pretty excited about that.

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[Joost]

 
Was just thinking about to use some removable locktite(gas sealant) or tread lock tape.The white .1 or .2 mm
Very curious if it will work.

The next step wil be coating the bushing, and barrel with the titanium nitride.

Too bad ,i can't get the nose job here in europe...

Until then ,i use  some copper paste

[8strings8rounds]

Was just thinking about to use some removable locktite(gas sealant) or tread lock tape.The white .1 or .2 mm
Very curious if it will work.

The next step wil be coating the bushing, and barrel with the titanium nitride.

Too bad ,i can't get the nose job here in europe...

Until then ,i use  some copper paste

Dang, we do TiN coating at work.. Hadn't even considered it lol