Just bought my first AR... lower.

[gnumadic]

I read a few threads since I posted, too. And it seems that people are really passionate about the topic. I am tempted to stake it because I did not buy an armorer's wrench. My hand guard has a $5 proprietary wrench for the barrel nut. So a stock wrench was just $5, too. The only downside is that I tightened it by feel rather than using my torque wrench (the stock wrench lacks a 1/2" drive hole). But it's good to know that I can go without (at least as a range gun). That might be good since I'm thinking of getting a sling mount end plate later (not that a stake is permanent either).

Take a look at the PWS ratcheting castle nut. It's only $25, and I think it comes with a QD end plate.

https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/PWS-Ratchet-Lock-Sling-Mount-and-Castle-Nut-p/pws-4btrlpb1.htm

I will definitely consider the PWS. It's a cool concept and you wonder why something like that is aftermarket and the mil-spec way is practically medieval (hammer and punch). I love the review on JoeBob's where the guy says, "This part is junk. [...] I was able to replace with a $4 mil spec part and the stock is as solid as ever. I'd also expect the ratchet mechanism to wear after repeated assembly/disassemble." So...don't you have to replace your end plates every time you uninstall them?

My initial purpose behind the rifle is for the fun of building it/shooting at the range, but as for the build itself I'm thinking home defense/SHTF, etc. (hopefully a purpose it's never needed for). So at some point I'll stake it or go with the PWS nut. For now, I don't think my marriage would survive another part purchase, even for $25 or less. I ended up buying Magpul MBUS Pro sights and that's it for a while (until I settle on an optic...red dot or scope...and then Christmas rolls around). Of course, I paid $140 for the front/rear set and Primary Arms now has them on their Labor Day sale for $130.

[SlvrDragon50]

I read a few threads since I posted, too. And it seems that people are really passionate about the topic. I am tempted to stake it because I did not buy an armorer's wrench. My hand guard has a $5 proprietary wrench for the barrel nut. So a stock wrench was just $5, too. The only downside is that I tightened it by feel rather than using my torque wrench (the stock wrench lacks a 1/2" drive hole). But it's good to know that I can go without (at least as a range gun). That might be good since I'm thinking of getting a sling mount end plate later (not that a stake is permanent either).

Take a look at the PWS ratcheting castle nut. It's only $25, and I think it comes with a QD end plate.

https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/PWS-Ratchet-Lock-Sling-Mount-and-Castle-Nut-p/pws-4btrlpb1.htm

I will definitely consider the PWS. It's a cool concept and you wonder why something like that is aftermarket and the mil-spec way is practically medieval (hammer and punch). I love the review on JoeBob's where the guy says, "This part is junk. [...] I was able to replace with a $4 mil spec part and the stock is as solid as ever. I'd also expect the ratchet mechanism to wear after repeated assembly/disassemble." So...don't you have to replace your end plates every time you uninstall them?

My initial purpose behind the rifle is for the fun of building it/shooting at the range, but as for the build itself I'm thinking home defense/SHTF, etc. (hopefully a purpose it's never needed for). So at some point I'll stake it or go with the PWS nut. For now, I don't think my marriage would survive another part purchase, even for $25 or less. I ended up buying Magpul MBUS Pro sights and that's it for a while (until I settle on an optic...red dot or scope...and then Christmas rolls around). Of course, I paid $140 for the front/rear set and Primary Arms now has them on their Labor Day sale for $130.

I heard only a handful of bad reviews on the PWS, and it sounds like they were duds. Now that I've been getting the Primary Arms newsletter, I have a pretty good sense of how they price things now so I no longer feel obligated to purchase things That said... I think I just made my last huge purchase. I only need a BCG from AIM Surplus, and all the rest is coming from a huge order from Lanbo's which is on sale all the time. I don't have a marriage to worry about with my purchases, but I feel guilty spending so much right now

[Elcid]

For retouching you can try this.  Read the reviews and decide.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/707229/birchwood-casey-aluminum-black-metal-touch-up

[gnumadic]

For retouching you can try this.  Read the reviews and decide.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/707229/birchwood-casey-aluminum-black-metal-touch-up

Is that a permanent solution (i.e., chemical change to the metal)? I picked up one of the Birchwood Casey black touch-up pens, but I think it was essentially paint. I am expecting it to wear off at some point...just not quite as soon as a Sharpie marker.

[Elcid]

I don't think it's a permanent solution. I think it's similar to cold bluing solution but could be applied on aluminum. Just reapply when it rubs off.

[gnumadic]

Well, after all that I staked it. Had to pick up some light bulbs at Ace Hardware and walked out with an automatic center punch. I also grabbed a regular center punch, but the automatic punch worked really well. The BCM stock fits great and now my lower is fully complete!

[gnumadic]

Ran into a problem with the gas block install. It seems that my smallest roll-pin punch was wider than the hole, so it caused the gas-tube roll pin to mushroom. It's through the gas tube but I'm afraid not far enough. I think I need a smaller punch and a new pin.    What are the chances I can find a gas-tube roll pin in Chattanooga, TN instead of having to go mail order?



It may be OK but in hindsight I think I messed up the ALG barrel nut install. I started with the black shim and calculated that I needed the green and purple shims. But when I put the specified shims on the barrel the pre-torque band was not in the right spot. So I swapped one shim for a thinner one. However, I only hand tightened the nut the second time (vs. hand tightening w/the wrench). I just watched the installation video again and Bill uses the wrench to hand tighten to get the pre-torque setting (vs. using a 1' pipe nipple on the wrench). I think I need to do it over with the green and purple shims, so I suppose reinstalling the gas tube is needed anyway.

[Earl Keese]

There's a Gunshop behind Hardee's at exit 27 in Cleveland. Can't think of the name right now, but he has lots of AR parts. You could also try calling Anthony @ Anthony's Armory in Red Bank. He has a lot of spare parts.

[M1A4ME]

What will you refinish the castle nut/ring with?  It's steel, right?  Will the aluminum pen refinish stuff work on the steel?  I'm curious since the finish is wearing off the safeties (steel) and slide releases on my CZ 75 Compact pretty badly.  I'm wondering if the pen will work without having to take the safeties out of the pistol frame.

[SlvrDragon50]

What will you refinish the castle nut/ring with?  It's steel, right?  Will the aluminum pen refinish stuff work on the steel?  I'm curious since the finish is wearing off the safeties (steel) and slide releases on my CZ 75 Compact pretty badly.  I'm wondering if the pen will work without having to take the safeties out of the pistol frame.

I've been told to use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Super-Blue-3-Ounce/dp/B0000C515I/ref=pd_sim_200_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M7225EVPDFZB59VYDJ0S

When my safety and slide release finishes on my 85C in a month, CZ basically told me it'll happen, and I didn't want to send my gun in just for this.

[Earl Keese]

What will you refinish the castle nut/ring with?  It's steel, right?  Will the aluminum pen refinish stuff work on the steel?  I'm curious since the finish is wearing off the safeties (steel) and slide releases on my CZ 75 Compact pretty badly.  I'm wondering if the pen will work without having to take the safeties out of the pistol frame.

I've been told to use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Super-Blue-3-Ounce/dp/B0000C515I/ref=pd_sim_200_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M7225EVPDFZB59VYDJ0S

When my safety and slide release finishes on my 85C in a month, CZ basically told me it'll happen, and I didn't want to send my gun in just for this.

I keep the paste version of this product for doing touch ups, works well for my intended use.

[gnumadic]

There's a Gunshop behind Hardee's at exit 27 in Cleveland. Can't think of the name right now, but he has lots of AR parts. You could also try calling Anthony @ Anthony's Armory in Red Bank. He has a lot of spare parts.

Thanks! I might try giving Anthony's a call. Cleveland is a little far since I'm in Flintstone, near Rossville. If I drove to Cleveland I might as well pay a few bucks shipping to have some shipped from Primary Arms. There's a place in Tiftonia that I'm going to try first (Lookout Firearms). I've never gone in but they have AR signs in the window. Of course, even if I get the roll pin I still need a smaller roll pin punch. Hopefully I can get that, too. Maybe mail order is in order...

BTW, my mistakes have mounted. I partially punched out the gas tube pin and pulled it the rest of the way with a pair of pliers. But I was on the phone at the same time and accidentally grabbed the gas block roll pin (it protrudes from both sides) and causing it to crimp a little. I think I have it bent back into shape, but I may end up needing one of those, too! I have to slow it down and avoid distractions!

I did pull off the ALG barrel nut and did it again with the right colored shims. Sure enough, hand tightening with the wrench put the nut in the perfect pre-torque position--just like the videos. So at least that's fixed and I know my barrel nut is properly torqued!

[Earl Keese]

There's a Gunshop behind Hardee's at exit 27 in Cleveland. Can't think of the name right now, but he has lots of AR parts. You could also try calling Anthony @ Anthony's Armory in Red Bank. He has a lot of spare parts.

Thanks! I might try giving Anthony's a call. Cleveland is a little far since I'm in Flintstone, near Rossville. If I drove to Cleveland I might as well pay a few bucks shipping to have some shipped from Primary Arms. There's a place in Tiftonia that I'm going to try first (Lookout Firearms). I've never gone in but they have AR signs in the window. Of course, even if I get the roll pin I still need a smaller roll pin punch. Hopefully I can get that, too. Maybe mail order is in order...

BTW, my mistakes have mounted. I partially punched out the gas tube pin and pulled it the rest of the way with a pair of pliers. But I was on the phone at the same time and accidentally grabbed the gas block roll pin (it protrudes from both sides) and causing it to crimp a little. I think I have it bent back into shape, but I may end up needing one of those, too! I have to slow it down and avoid distractions!

I did pull off the ALG barrel nut and did it again with the right colored shims. Sure enough, hand tightening with the wrench put the nut in the perfect pre-torque position--just like the videos. So at least that's fixed and I know my barrel nut is properly torqued!

There's also a little gun shop in Lookout Valley that used to have a lot of AR parts been a while since I've been in there. What about Ace Hardware?

[gnumadic]

There's also a little gun shop in Lookout Valley that used to have a lot of AR parts been a while since I've been in there. What about Ace Hardware?

That's where I went (Lookout Valley is also Tiftonia, right?) over on Cummings Hwy near Browns Ferry Rd. Lookout Firearms and Accessories. The owner, Randy, gave me the gas tube roll pin for free! In fact, if I had brought both the gas block and the tube he'd have installed it for me, but I only had the block in my pocket.



I did go buy a roll pin set with a small enough punch to do the job right. I also took a small file and slightly tapered the end of the roll pin to help it go in a little easier. Got the tube on the block and the block on the barrel. All I have left is to install the flash hider and secure the hand rail. Busy weekend ahead (Friday night football, Saturday soccer, birthday parties, etc...oh, and my in-laws are in town), but I should hopefully get it done and have pics up by Monday or Tuesday.

[M1A4ME]

I don't know if it helps (makes me feel good though) but I always get a pair of pliers and squeeze the snot out of the roll pin, while setting the end in the hole and then give it that first smack with the hammer.

It seems to not only make the roll pin start easier (especially that pesky little roll pin for the slide release) but gives be a bigger target for the hammer as I'm hitting the pliers, not just the tip of the roll pin.

Once it's started I lay the pliers aside and just use the hammer.