Upgrade suggestions

[briang2ad]

I had similar experience.  CZ is turning out some bad trigger experiences in the P07.  That is just the way it is.  Ultimately mine went back to CZ USA and they changed out some parts and polished it.  SA is better, ad DA is much better, but not smooth compared to a SIG or Beretta - again, its just the way it is. 

The Omega system was meant tor quicker and easier repairs on weapons with a decocker - and from what I can tell, a better SA trigger OTB than the 75 series.  ALL CZs come with hammer camming prior to break - again, safety feature that doesn't feel good, but it works on a service gun.

Whatever the case, they do shoot pretty well even with sucky triggers.  That is because of the grip, fat frame (lets your left hand get all over the gun), and RELATIVELY short DA from the partial cock position. 

Generally the 75 series can get butter smooth and light with polishing - even without radical spring changes.  Not so the Omega.  It can remain pretty stiff and creepy after polishing, trigger bar spring tweaking, and polishing of other parts.  Patience is key though, and I think after a couple thousand rounds they also get better.

But, I feel your pain.  I'd do the polishing - lube it, and shoot 500 rounds, and see what you get.  If you do this, at least buy a couple CGW trigger return springs - they are an absolute essential on this gun, because CZ TRS break - period.  But first dry fire the snot out of it to smooth. You may just break the TRS then and be ready to polish and replace.

Ultimately, if it doesn't improve, consider sending back to CZ USA - it may be 'out of whack' like mine.

Once you get it quite useable, look at the SR Kit by CGW and for sure the CGW sear spring.  With the short kit, you can go with a 15 or 18 LB spring.  Keep in mind that if you want to replace the roller, you MUST measure the roller bearing - just ask CGW.  This is some of the advice you will get from CGW. 

It is easy to put over $200 in this gun to make it right, and completely change the spring setup.  This changes all the slide velocities also, and wear and tear on the gun.

Of course if you want a GUARANTEED good trigger OTB, look at the SP 2022, or the PX4 in similar formats.

I still like the P07 and think it is an accurate rugged pistol with much potential.  The manufacturing seems to be rough.

[badwrench]

Just decided to do the full dealio since it's not too bad with the 10% discount...

What's the opinion on the SRS? I'm not really bothered by the reset right now so I don't know if it's worth the extra $45 for the SRS.

You are getting the ProGrade kit but contemplating dropping the lifter and disconnector?

I say go whole hog... which is, of course, similar to the full dealio but without reservation

I agree with this^ if you, or CGW is going to be digging around in there, you might as well install the SRS, Buy once  cry once, but what you'll get for the money is impressive. You won't be sorry you did it...

[s0nspark]

I had similar experience.  CZ is turning out some bad trigger experiences in the P07.  That is just the way it is.  Ultimately mine went back to CZ USA and they changed out some parts and polished it.  SA is better, ad DA is much better, but not smooth compared to a SIG or Beretta - again, its just the way it is. 

I'm probably the odd duck here but I am not such a fan of polishing parts in a carry gun. I'll upgrade parts all day long but I prefer to have those parts wear in naturally. I know, probably a silly thing but I have seen polishing compromise both the reliability and safety of the gun and cause premature wearing out of parts.

One part of me does wish the guns came from the factory tuned a bit more (and more consistently) but for a sub-$450 gun that can be upgraded nicely for $200 or less depending on one's preferences, it is hardly a big deal to me.

Generally the 75 series can get butter smooth and light with polishing - even without radical spring changes.  Not so the Omega.  It can remain pretty stiff and creepy after polishing, trigger bar spring tweaking, and polishing of other parts.  Patience is key though, and I think after a couple thousand rounds they also get better.

I would agree. The trigger on my daughter's Canik C100 that David @ CGW upgraded and tuned is better all around. The biggest selling points for me with the P-07 are the lighter weight, lack of a sear cage and that I could have it milled for an RMR that co-witnesses. The CGW upgrades definitely push it into the "really good" category... maybe just not the "freaking amazing" category that some of the steel-framed CZs I've owned were in ;-)

If you do this, at least buy a couple CGW trigger return springs - they are an absolute essential on this gun, because CZ TRS break - period.  But first dry fire the snot out of it to smooth. You may just break the TRS then and be ready to polish and replace.

I have had really good luck with the CGW TRS ... I have yet to break one in any of my guns with lots of dry fire and close to 5k rounds downrange across the set. *looks for some wood to knock on*

It is easy to put over $200 in this gun to make it right, and completely change the spring setup.  This changes all the slide velocities also, and wear and tear on the gun.

I am a big believer in keeping an extra slide stop or two on hand because the CZ design puts a lot of force on that part, tuned gun or no. That, the CGW TRS and the CGW FP retaining pin are the three *must haves* in my book.

[SlvrDragon50]

I guess I feel the urgency to buy CGW parts since they have the 10% off sale right now, otherwise I would shoot a lot more ammo and see how it changes over time. I only shot about 100 rounds on Wednesday.

The other reason is that I've only had FPB-less CZs so I guess I am not really sure what to expect with one having a FPB. When I first shot the gun, I was pulling the trigger expecting it to break, but I had to pull another few mm so I am not sure if that is the FPB or creepy hammer?

[briang2ad]

Let me also provide a ore hopeful response.  I just shot a couple hundred more rounds out of my P07.  It is getting better each time.  Smoothing out, and the DA is not that heavy. 

Moreover, I shot it besides my P228 and SP 2022.  The 2022 has a VERY smooth and light DA, but I hit better with the P07 - especially when not concentrating.  I really think the ergos on this gun are tops.  My least best (all still good) was my 228 - which has a very smooth DA, particularly at speed.  BL:  The P07 just plain shoots, and I am liking the trigger more and more.

I did get a few light strikes with wolf that fired on the second try in DA.  This makes me want to NOT change any springs. I do have a CGW SR kit and springs available.  They are tempting, and I think the elongated FP and 18 LB spring MIGHT be ideal - but I'm enjoying this firearm as is for now.   

Keep in mind that mine took a trip to CZ USA - and again - good on them.

On Polishing:  If done right I have never had a problem, and I DO think it will not change a gun as much as a spring change.  It WILL make the trigger pull smoother, and easier to achieve good accuracy. 

[SlvrDragon50]

It's funny, I didn't think the reset was too bad until I went and really messed with the reset... Look at what you guys are making me do.

[s0nspark]

I think the elongated FP and 18 LB spring MIGHT be ideal.   

I think that is a great recipe for "sets 'em off every time"

On Polishing:  If done right I have never had a problem, and I DO think it will not change a gun as much as a spring change.  It WILL make the trigger pull smoother, and easier to achieve good accuracy.

It matters how far you go with it, I'm sure... to be fair, I've seen more problems out of competition guns where people were really trying to push the limits and some parts (particularly the sear) just don't last very long if you polish the life out of them ;-)

 

[DOC 1500]

I think the elongated FP and 18 LB spring MIGHT be ideal.   

I think that is a great recipe for "sets 'em off every time"

On Polishing:  If done right I have never had a problem, and I DO think it will not change a gun as much as a spring change.  It WILL make the trigger pull smoother, and easier to achieve good accuracy.

It matters how far you go with it, I'm sure... to be fair, I've seen more problems out of competition guns where people were really trying to push the limits and some parts (particularly the sear) just don't last very long if you polish the life out of them ;-)

Yaa ^^^^^^ what he said^^.....
That's me waving my hand.
 I polished mine too much, David cgw had to rescue me with extra parts he had lying around..
Kind of like the saying tight is tight ,but too tight is broken!
A little polishing goes a long way, too much polishing makes your timing go away !!!

[SlvrDragon50]

It depends on how you polish too though. I only polish using a buffing wheel and polish so I'm not removing any where near much material as the people who use sandpaper. Obviously, I won't get as nice of a polish, but my S2 and 85C are great!

[30-30]

on a carry gun I do not polish any parts, I might replace some springs, but mostly I keep my carry guns OEM stock.

[briang2ad]

I do think resurrecting a SHORT thread that shows exactly what to polish and what the finished product looks like would be immensely valuable.  I know one exists, but you have to read through about 90 (LOL) pages to figure out what is right.  I say this, because if you ever polished up a 75 - it makes the DA pull feel like nothing - even with mainsprings at 17LBS or more. 

Remember that changing  springs changes the slide velocities, and this is not always trivial.  The 18LB might be OK - only a 10% reduction. 

I still think the OP should send it back.  The P07 should NOT feel that bad OTB.  I do think CZ QC is a tad sllipshod, and that CZ CS is pretty good.  Mine feels like a different gun.  The trigger isn't great - but it is now very acceptable as a duty gun, and I may still Cajunize it.  The pull on the DA on CZs is shorter, and this makes a difference. 

[Raining_Brass]

Remember that changing  springs changes the slide velocities, and this is not always trivial.  The 18LB might be OK - only a 10% reduction. 

How exactly do you figure changing the main spring weight changes the slide velocity? Where are you all getting this horrible misinformation from? Someone in another thread said the exact same, wrong thing not long ago.

[briang2ad]

The mainspring provides considerable force to make the hammer successful in striking the FP with sufficient force to make it in turn light the primer. When the slide cycles rearward, in order to eject the round, it must overcome the resistance of the hammer/mainspring to cock the hammer.  As you reduce the MS weight, you reduce this resistance provided by the mainspring and INCREASE the velocity of the slide going rearward.  This will put more wear on the SS in the 75 or the frame in other designs.  Some folks INCREASE the recoil spring to compensate for this, and while it works in the rearward direction, you now INCREASE velocity of the slide returning to battery.  IN any case, when you decrease the MS weight, you increase rearward slide velocity - period.  This WILL result in more wear and tear on the gun.  Gamers do this all the time, and don't mind replacing guns at some point.  On a 75 it means less time between slide stop changes, etc. 

You can also look at it from a conservation of energy standpoint.  The kinetic energy of the slide it transferred to the potential energy of the mainspring.  If the mainspring was made strong enough, the slide would not cock the hammer, and the slide would not eject the round. 

Keep in mind that a lighter mainspring AND lighter recoil spring (what gamers desire for a 'flat shooter' and light trigger) WILL increase slide velocity rearward even more.  This batters the gun more. 

Again, changing out springs changes things all over.  Just keep it in mond when changing things out.

The OP doesnt need an upgrade, he needs to get his gun fixed.

[1SOW]

Re "Polishing"
Polishing in CZ polishing suggestions for the action refers to making all the "high spots" shiny smooth where metal rubs against  metal.  Polishing is NOT referring to reshaping or removing metal to change it's Shape or Measurements..    After polishing there may still be machine marks, voids or inclusions;  but the surface areas that rub against other metal parts will be smoooooth and shiny.  Polishing keeps flat surfaces flat and adds slippery.
" Schmecky" has a great stcky showing polishing results where they are needed to reduce scratchy, irregular and or rough parts movements in the action. 

[Raining_Brass]

The mainspring provides considerable force to make the hammer successful in striking the FP with sufficient force to make it in turn light the primer. When the slide cycles rearward, in order to eject the round, it must overcome the resistance of the hammer/mainspring to cock the hammer.  As you reduce the MS weight, you reduce this resistance provided by the mainspring and INCREASE the velocity of the slide going rearward.  This will put more wear on the SS in the 75 or the frame in other designs.  Some folks INCREASE the recoil spring to compensate for this, and while it works in the rearward direction, you now INCREASE velocity of the slide returning to battery.  IN any case, when you decrease the MS weight, you increase rearward slide velocity - period.  This WILL result in more wear and tear on the gun.  Gamers do this all the time, and don't mind replacing guns at some point.  On a 75 it means less time between slide stop changes, etc. 

You can also look at it from a conservation of energy standpoint.  The kinetic energy of the slide it transferred to the potential energy of the mainspring.  If the mainspring was made strong enough, the slide would not cock the hammer, and the slide would not eject the round. 

Keep in mind that a lighter mainspring AND lighter recoil spring (what gamers desire for a 'flat shooter' and light trigger) WILL increase slide velocity rearward even more.  This batters the gun more. 

Again, changing out springs changes things all over.  Just keep it in mond when changing things out.

The OP doesnt need an upgrade, he needs to get his gun fixed.

You?re overthinking this way, way too much. Even going from an OEM main to a 13lb main would have an extremely minor impact on slide velocity. Nothing even worth bringing up.

As far as lighter recoil springs beating the gun up - 99% of shooters will never shoot the gun enough for that to even be an issue worth discussing. Replace the recoil spring at PROPER intervals and 75 series guns (pretty much ANY reputable gun) will go MANY, MANY tens of thousands of rounds without needing nothing more than the normal wear and tear parts replaced that would go bad with ANY recoil spring being used at those round counts.