Cerakoting Slide

[Raining_Brass]

I think I found a correct answer on another site.  If the Slide is properly blasted (Al Oxide), the nitride remains intact (because it is a treatment that penetrates the surface), and you can cerakote OVER the nitriding.  This is likely the best of both worlds.  Of course you have ti find a refinisher that knows what they are doing. 

SO... back to the OP:  Anyone with experience here Cerakoting OVER nitride?  I do know that the CZ nitriding on its P series is reportedly VERY durable.

I've seen the Cerakote vids, and it IS likely the best coating, if it is scratched through i would expect that it will corrode deeper and MUCH faster than nitriding that is a surface treatment that hardens and penetrates.

?Properly? blasting ANY slide means you?re blasting down to bare material - period. Whatever it was coated or treated with before at that point no longer has absolutely anything to add to durability or corrosion resistance of the slide. If you think I?m wrong and that nitride penetration means squat, blast a nitride slide and let me know how long it takes to rust. Because down here a bare, previously nitrided or parkerized slide will start to get surface rust in under 24 hours.

[Oldhammerdude]

(Al Oxide) Is used as a super soft blast media and works wonders on cleaning Aluminum boats without losing any meaningful amount of hull thickness (safe for john boats).
After all Al Oxide is the grey/white rust of aluminum. When used on steel it does the same as any other media just at a slower/finer rate than some.
Long of the short answer: The nitride is Gone.  And you don't see water running through 1/8" steel unless it's through a hole.

[Raining_Brass]

(Al Oxide) Is used as a super soft blast media and works wonders on cleaning Aluminum boats without losing any meaningful amount of hull thickness (safe for john boats).
After all Al Oxide is the grey/white rust of aluminum. When used on steel it does the same as any other media just at a slower/finer rate than some.
Long of the short answer: The nitride is Gone.  And you don't see water running through 1/8" steel unless it's through a hole.

Bingo

[texasmojo]

I like using KGgunkote. It goes on very thin, is very durable, and chemical resistant. All paints will scratch even cerakote. The cool thing about KG is that you can degrease your already kggunkote painted item and just go right over it with a fresh new paint coat without having to media blast it then just throw it in the oven. This paint will not add thickness to your parts.

[Raining_Brass]

I like using KGgunkote. It goes on very thin, is very durable, and chemical resistant. All paints will scratch even cerakote. The cool thing about KG is that you can degrease your already kggunkote painted item and just go right over it with a fresh new paint coat without having to media blast it then just throw it in the oven. This paint will not add thickness to your parts.

Neither will cerakote if it's sprayed correctly. It's meant to be applied about ~.001" thick. Which, on anything aside from a hand fit gun, is nothing.

[SP01bob]

I like using KGgunkote. It goes on very thin, is very durable, and chemical resistant. All paints will scratch even cerakote. The cool thing about KG is that you can degrease your already kggunkote painted item and just go right over it with a fresh new paint coat without having to media blast it then just throw it in the oven. This paint will not add thickness to your parts.

Neither will cerakote if it's sprayed correctly. It's meant to be applied about ~.001" thick. Which, on anything aside from a hand fit gun, is nothing.

PM sent

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[briang2ad]

Why would you want to keep the OEM coating? It's not nearly as corrosion resistant as cerakote is. Like not even in the same playing field. It is of zero advantage to keep it on there.

Back to the OP - because I wanted to change the color of my black slide and NOT lose either durability OR corrosion resistance.  It is my belief that the CZ OEM finish is VERY tough and of course is a treatment of the metal, like Glock, not a paint (like Cerakote):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=89&v=qxy9VU2h-H4

Which leads me to believe that replacing the OEM finish with a paint is degrading the finish. 

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

Why would you want to keep the OEM coating? It's not nearly as corrosion resistant as cerakote is. Like not even in the same playing field. It is of zero advantage to keep it on there.

Back to the OP - because I wanted to change the color of my black slide and NOT lose either durability OR corrosion resistance.  It is my belief that the CZ OEM finish is VERY tough and of course is a treatment of the metal, like Glock, not a paint (like Cerakote):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=89&v=qxy9VU2h-H4

Which leads me to believe that replacing the OEM finish with a paint is degrading the finish.

I know you are interested in another color for your slide but I don't think anything is going to mirror the durability of the finish on the gen 2 P-07/09 slides. I've dragged mine around pretty good the last couple years and I'm impressed at the lack of discernible wear on my slide. Cerakote is nice for color but I don't think it's that tough in the long term either. Unless you baby it.

[briang2ad]

I tend to agree, Para.  After all it is paint, not a treatment. 

[mastaking]

Talk with Cajun Gun Works.

Really nice Gun!

[briang2ad]

I am very happy I never Cerakoted a P07 slide.  When replacing my P09 FP retaining roll pin I really shwacked the slide denting the steel.  I did NOT seem to penetrate the nitride finish. Wow.  I?m impressed.  Truly impressed.  No cerakoting needed for me. 

Now, white/grey nitride?  Hmmmm...

[Vinny]

Cerakote instructions are not "blah blah blah", I promise. Cerakote WILL NOT hold up unless it's sprayed directly onto base material. Trying to do otherwise is the kind of stuff that gives a great finish a bad name when people complain it's not lasting.

Why would you want to keep the OEM coating? It's not nearly as corrosion resistant as cerakote is. Like not even in the same playing field. It is of zero advantage to keep it on there.

Background: we spray thousands of slides and AR receivers, barrels, etc a year.

I've had two slides Cerakoted by Primary; and I've been very pleased, especially with the Titanium color on a Black P-07.

What is the factory finish on a P-01? I thought it was Nitride??
I understand Nitride is even more durable than Cerakote, yes?? (planning to have a P-01 milled, but still deciding finish, and optic will be JPoint or Shield RMS.)

[Vinny]

The CZ factory finish on my SP-01 and P-01 seems different (better, smoother, thicker) than my P-07 and P-09 (not as smooth or as thick) so does anyone know why? I suppose the obvious answer is the surface preparation; but I'm wondering if there's more to it than that??

The best factory finish I've experienced was on my HK VP-9. The underside of slide was so smooth and durable; any shooting residue just wiped right off and after 4000 rounds when I sold the gun, it had absolutly no sign of any wear. It seemed to be another level above Nitride.
Is this just my imagination?? 

[Raining_Brass]

You can say ?just fancy paint? all you want. But let me know when another regular old paint goes through the third party testing that H series cerakote has. It?s extremely impressive for what it is.
The bottom line is that NOT A SINGLE finish in the industry can touch it as far as corrosion resistance. For many people that means much much more than hardness. If you live in a humid climate and/or carry a lot where you may sweat on the gun - cerakote is a far better choice over nitride. Sacrificing a bit of hardness is a well worth it trade off for the slide not rusting if you happen to neglect it for a bit (and by a bit I mean literally surface rust will start within a day down here with our humidity combined with sweating on the slide).

Also have to think about cost. Nitride is a more expensive finish. One could have their slide refinished in cerakote twice for what it costs to be nitrided once.

They?re both great and both have their pros and cons. But to throw cerakote aside as inferior simply due to hardness is just plain silly. It has become an industry leading finish for a reason.

[Vinny]

The CZ factory finish on my SP-01 and P-01 seems different (better, smoother, thicker) than my P-07 and P-09 (not as smooth or as thick) so does anyone know why?

Polycoat on the SP-01 and P-01.

Nitride on the P-07 and P-09.

Apples and Oranges.

That's what I like about the CZ Forum...learn something new every day.
So, what is polycoat compared to Nitride or Ceracoat, as in advantages or disadvantages?