Revolver advice

[lee n field]

up to $600?

Lots of choices.  

See if you can't get hold of a S&W Model 19.  (Won't be stainless, can't have everything).  An exteremely shootable classic.

[Walt-Sherrill]

The S&W model 19 is a great gun.  I had one in nickel.  But, it may not be up to a heavy diet of full power .357.  Some of the other S&W revolvers might be more robust in that regard.  

My favorite was my 547, 9mm (which is almost a performance match for the .357 in many loads), without moon clips.  Very nice gun.

[weemsf]

In a S&W, I would buy a 586 or 686.  They are L frames and can take a steady diet of magnum loads.  The S&W trigger can be improved with a Wolff hammer spring and a new trigger rebound spring.  You will eventually loosen up any of the K frame (19's. 66's, etc.) by firing lots of magnum loads through them.

In the Rugers, the GP100 is an excellent revolver.  My Deputy Chief says it is the most accurate out of the box revolver he has ever fired.  Wolff makes a kit for them and it is easy to install.  The Ruger will probably outlast you and me both.  Mine did not like slow wadcutter loads.  Had to speed them up a bit and wound up with too much leading.  Cured that with Rainier bullets which are copper plated.

[jwc007]

S&W M19's definitely will not take a steady diet of .357 Magnums and I found this out the hard way before it became generally known, as the Forcing Cone on mine split.  Sent it back to S&W, who then charged me to fix it!  Later traded it for my WWII Walther P38, which I still have.

If you do elect to go with a S&W K-Frame M19 or M66, shoot mostly .38 Specials thru it and only the occasional box of Magnums.  The S&W L-Frame 586/686 is a better choice in an S&W as weemsf has noted.  The S&W J-Frame M27 Highway Patrolman is also a good choice and can be found used.

S&W has elected to discontinue the K-Frame .357 Magnums and have L-Frame replacement models.

[BRASMAN]

My Dad has a GP-100 with wilson combat springs and it is a great shooter and the double action trigger on his is great with the different springs.

[Mackerel-Snapper]

Thanks for the input folks. I'll take a look at the S&W's ...and keep an eye out for a Colt as well. There's no hurry.

[comviren]

Cool thread. I have shoot semi autos my whole life but I want to get into revolvers.  I've looked at Colt, S&W, Ruger, and Taurus.  I'm still looking around and it wont be at least a year or so until I get my hands on one so I have time to lust around for the model I want.



I like the Taurus Model 608 because they still make the 8-3/8 barrel length and they offer a blued finish on there guns.  I'm not a fan of the stainless steel look, 8 shots! WOW!, and the price is looks good to me.

I'm just wondering about the quality of Taurus's products. There hast to be some strings if they are this affordable.

[verbaltharhino]

Taurus makes some good stuff.  It's a lower price because it's not as "refined" as some of the others.  There were some QC problems in the past, but Taurus has seemed to work through them.  They also have a lifetime warranty, which is more than you can say about some other big names.

For an entry level revolver, don't hesitate to get a Taurus.  Just like a CZ, don't think of quality as higher price.  Go with what works for you.

[Brady]

I got a Taurus SS 4"  7-shot revolver and it shaves lead.  Even cut my lip while shooting.  I also noticed the seam cracking on the frame where the rubber grip and trigger guard come together.

Needless to say it's on it's way back to Taurus.

I vote NO on Taurus.

[Grendel]

FWIW, I have been told by several people whose opinions I trust, to stay away from 7 and 8 shot variants built on a normal 6 shot model. Apparently (and I do not know this for a fact), the cylinders on the larger capacity models are the same as those on the 6 shot, but with more 'holes' crammed into less space, the chamber walls are a lot thinner, which leads to a decrease in strength.
As I said,  I do not know this to be absolutely true, but it would seem likely that less metal = less strength.

I still think you'd be hard pressed to do better than a GP100

My 2 cents

[comviren]

Quote:with more 'holes' crammed into less space, the chamber walls are a lot thinner, which leads to a decrease in strength.

Why is that something to worry about?



What about the Plus version of the L-frame S&W 686? How does the extra "7th hole" effect the feel of the trigger pull in DA or SA?

A friend of mine has the basic 6 inch version of this revolver and he likes it, but he told me that the action on the gun was too hard and not as smooth as he liked so he had to send it to a smith for an Action/Trigger Job.

If I were to purchase an S&W 686 or some other revolver should I expect bad factory triggers as just typical no mater the manufacturer?

[Walt-Sherrill]

Extra rounds in the cylinder isn't likely to affect the trigger pull.

But, unless the cylinder is made with better, stouter material, and its size (diameter) has stayed the same, the resulting cylinder is less robust and less resistant to pressure.  (If you've seen a revolver that has blown up, you'd understand why some folks might be concerned.)

If the gun was thoroughly redesigned of the larger round count, its not likely to be a problem.

[Grendel]

What Walt said

[jwc007]

Quote:with more 'holes' crammed into less space, the chamber walls are a lot thinner, which leads to a decrease in strength.

I agree!  A close friend of mine needs to have the cylinder of her S&W 686 plus (7 shot version) replaced as the Chamber metal has expanded and rough extraction is now a problem.  It will be sent back to S&W for repair.

If you were to go for an S&W 686, a 6 shot version would be preferable.

[comviren]

Besides the S&W 686, what 357.Mag should I look at?