Scorpion Evo 3 trigger reset problem (kit from CZ Custom)

[Nordman49]

Hi,

I've just installed the CZ Evo Trigger Pack + CZ Scorpion EVO Disconnector UPGRADED-by CZ Custom

This is a huge improvement over the factory trigger !
But I have 2 serious problems 

- sometimes (every 3 or 4 shots) my trigger won't reset, and I must push it forward with my finger
- the safety won't work, the lever can't reach the Safety position (white)

Thanks in advance for your help !

[3guneric]

Contact CZ!  It is their product and they will guide you on resolving this.

[cntrydawwwg]

Nordman49, CZCustom isn?t always on here. I?d give them a call, I?m sure they?ll get you up and running.

[Headspace]

I had a similar problem with my CZC trigger pack resetting.
I installed HBI's trigger and disconnector spring which solved the reset issue for me.
In order to get your safety selector to work you'll have to do a little filing. See here for more info.https://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=84283.0;topicseen
Check that there's no interference between your trigger shoe and the lower receiver, specifically where it comes out in the trigger guard. If it's rubbing at all it may not reset with the lighter springs.
When it's work'n properly it's the best trigger out there for the Scorp IMO.
Best of luck to ya.

[cocowheats]

Had similar issues with the HBi kit. Just posted this for somebody having reset issues on the HBi kit but it holds true for anyone with reset issues.

I had reset issues after the HBi spring kit and a light polish job. After assuring the trigger roll pin was not rubbing in the lower, I found it to be a mix of poor relations between the sear to hammer and a bit under powered trigger reset spring. Gun would work fine until it got a bit dirty (I shoot mine primarily suppressed and noticed a fair amount of dirt in the trigger pack from doing so). When a bit dirty, the reset issue would occur with the HBi spring kit since it didn't have enough force to overcome the poor sear to hammer mating with the added dirt. Worked fine until dirty...this is with a polish job on all the trigger pack contact surfaces as well. If I'd reset the trigger slow enough after shots, it'd get stuck and I'd have to force it forward to reset it.

I ended up cutting a handful of coils off the oem trigger reset spring and stoning the disconnectors, hammer, and sear. MUCH smoother and no more issues since. I suggest looking at the relation between your sear and hammer while the trigger pack is dirty if you have reset issues. See if this is where your trigger is picking up the resistance during reset. Very easy to see if you work the trigger reset with the lower off. If you find that this is your hang up point, then you just need to take a bit off the back of the hammer and the underlip of the sear, polish, and perhaps mod the oem reset spring for slightly more forward oomph on the trigger shoe.

Basically, I had a little to much force being put on the sear from the hammer during trigger reset. I alleviated it by removing material and then polishing the mating surfaces so that the force was lessened allowing the trigger to reset easier. The cut down oem trigger reset spring was just for good measure. My trigger breaks at 4.2ish lbs with a tad bit of creep(like the Glock's gen 4 spongy creep that comes after pulling past the wall). Cleaning up the front of the hammer and disconnectors was just to smooth out the trigger pull, nothing to do with the reset issue.

It was a frustrating endeavor as I had to take a little off here and there at a time then test fit but the results are a gun that hasn't been cleaned in a few thousand rounds without trigger problems. I wish the trigger was crisper, but it ain't awful. It's just no Elftmann...

Make sure it's not your trigger roll pin rubbing in the lower too...

[HalRex]

How about this fix to the CZ Custom Trigger Pack non-functioning safety issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DG9vLJJot8&t=375s
I agree with the guy in the video about filing on a MUCH less expensive part but  want to get opinions from more experienced members here about the viability/safety of filing where he suggests.

[Naz1236]

Just installed my CZ Custom trigger pack as for most part I?m very happy with it with exception that it cost the weapon to fire 2 rounds on one pull 6-7 times out of 200 rounds sent down range. Anyone else have this issue

[HalRex]

Just installed my CZ Custom trigger pack as for most part I?m very happy with it with exception that it cost the weapon to fire 2 rounds on one pull 6-7 times out of 200 rounds sent down range. Anyone else have this issue

Naz, did you find an answer to this issue? Mine just started ?doubling? this last weekend on the last couple of stages (I also have the custom trigger pack).

[DanT]

Doubling is caused by the disconnector not reliably "catching" the rear trigger shelf when the recoiling bolt recocks the hammer.  This means that the disconnector "bite" on the rear hammer shelf is too shallow.  Pop the lower off of you gun and pay with it.  When you are doing this, always catch the hammer with a thumb when firing to make sure it does not slam forward and hurt something as you "fire" it.

As I look at pictures of this trigger, it functions similar to the stock trigger, but allows for finer tuning.  I have made similar changes to my stock trigger by using shims for over travel (front of the trigger - 0.010" thick steel), pre-travel (rear of the trigger - 0.032" brass) and the front of the disconnector foot (0.016" brass).  There are details about this in earlier threads.

In my case, doubling was caused by the disconnector not having enough "bite" on the rear of the hammer shelf.  With the trigger pack pulled out, hold the hammer down with one thumb, press the trigger all the way back and watch how the disconnector at the rear of the trigger assembly "catches" the rear of the trigger shelf.

In my case, the over travel compensation was fixed with a shim and I never messed with it.  I filed down the 0.016" brass shim under the front of the disconnector foot in order to rotate the disconnector forward enough to get enough "bite" on the rear shelf.  Smaller disconnector shim = more "bite", but also a longer reset.  I found that the disconnector needed a "bite" of 1/3rd to 1/2 of the rear trigger shelf in order to reliably "catch" the hammer after firing.  If this "catch" action is not reliable, doubling will happen.

This trigger is not using fixed shims but instead has an adjustable over travel.  If you adjust the front of the trigger down a bit (i.e., give up a little bit on the over travel), the whole trigger pack can now rock forward a bit further (including the disconnector hook) when the trigger is pulled.  This will allow the disconnector to get a bit more bite when the trigger is pulled and will perhaps stop the "doubling".  The only alternative I would see would be to grind the front disconnector foot down a little bit to increase the disconnector "bite", but I would hope it does not come to that.

Note that there is a trade between shorter reset and a more reliable hammer "catch" (i.e., no doubling). Making the "catch" (i.e., more disconnector bite on the rear hammer shelf) will make the reset a bit longer.

- DanT  Phoenix, AZ

[HalRex]

Doubling is caused by the disconnector not reliably "catching" the rear trigger shelf when the recoiling bolt recocks the hammer.  This means that the disconnector "bite" on the rear hammer shelf is too shallow.  Pop the lower off of you gun and pay with it.  When you are doing this, always catch the hammer with a thumb when firing to make sure it does not slam forward and hurt something as you "fire" it.

As I look at pictures of this trigger, it functions similar to the stock trigger, but allows for finer tuning.  I have made similar changes to my stock trigger by using shims for over travel (front of the trigger - 0.010" thick steel), pre-travel (rear of the trigger - 0.032" brass) and the front of the disconnector foot (0.016" brass).  There are details about this in earlier threads.

In my case, doubling was caused by the disconnector not having enough "bite" on the rear of the hammer shelf.  With the trigger pack pulled out, hold the hammer down with one thumb, press the trigger all the way back and watch how the disconnector at the rear of the trigger assembly "catches" the rear of the trigger shelf.

In my case, the over travel compensation was fixed with a shim and I never messed with it.  I filed down the 0.016" brass shim under the front of the disconnector foot in order to rotate the disconnector forward enough to get enough "bite" on the rear shelf.  Smaller disconnector shim = more "bite", but also a longer reset.  I found that the disconnector needed a "bite" of 1/3rd to 1/2 of the rear trigger shelf in order to reliably "catch" the hammer after firing.  If this "catch" action is not reliable, doubling will happen.

This trigger is not using fixed shims but instead has an adjustable over travel.  If you adjust the front of the trigger down a bit (i.e., give up a little bit on the over travel), the whole trigger pack can now rock forward a bit further (including the disconnector hook) when the trigger is pulled.  This will allow the disconnector to get a bit more bite when the trigger is pulled and will perhaps stop the "doubling".  The only alternative I would see would be to grind the front disconnector foot down a little bit to increase the disconnector "bite", but I would hope it does not come to that.

Note that there is a trade between shorter reset and a more reliable hammer "catch" (i.e., no doubling). Making the "catch" (i.e., more disconnector bite on the rear hammer shelf) will make the reset a bit longer.

- DanT  Phoenix, AZ

Thanks Dan! I'll try adjusting the overtravel and see if that fixes it.

[jamesavery22]

Thanks for this vid.  Have the custom trigger on the way and didn't know it'd have to be fitted with the safety.