Anyone here with a 9MM AR15? I'm thinking of building one.

[M1A4ME]

Got the tracking info on some more stuff.  Should be able to finish getting the lower together tomorrow or Friday.  Probably tomorrow, I'm sort of impatient.  That is, if the parts do arrive tomorrow.

Between my impatience and my memory, I'll probably find myself grabbing some shoes and a pistol and running out to the garage to get the carbine spring and buffers since I go out there two to three times a day and keep forgetting to bring that stuff in then.

[M1A4ME]

Since I was going through the tool box looking for parts I didn't find I grabbed the trigger pull ga.

6.5 lbs., every time.  It just doesn't feel that heavy.  It's so slick.  The hammer "cams" rearward just a bit, the trigger tightens up, and you can stop/hold it at that point.  Then a small amount more effort and the hammer falls.

[M1A4ME]

Well, spent some more time looking for the GII stock/buffer, etc. and didn't find it.

I did find a box with four slings and 3 new D&H 30 round AR15 magazines, so I still came out ahead.....

[M1A4ME]

Well, got the Pametto State Armory upper today.

It appears the bottom of the bolt (that hits the top round in the magazine and pushes it into the chamber) won't clear the bullet guide bolted to the front/top of the lower receiver.  I can't get the receiver haves to close/lock.  I can push either the front or the back pin into place, but not both.  I can see marks on the bottom of the bolt where I keep trying to close the two halves together.

After lunch and the dog walk I'll sit down with the file, a stone, and/or the dremel and see if I can take a little bit of metal off the very center of the bullet guide so the bolt will clear it.  I don't want to remove any metal from the bottom of the bolt as it has to knock that top bullet out of the magazine and chamber it with that rail on the bottom of the bolt.  And the bolt is way more expensive to replace that the bullet guide.

I did check the bolt rearward travel with the spacer installed in the back of the buffer tube and the face of the bolt will go back past the back of the bolt stop by just over 1/8", but not a full 1/4".

Got the sights on the rail.  Got the Primary Arms advanced red dot on the rail (I wonder if the battery will really last 50,000 hrs.??)  Got the hand stop on the bottom of the free float tube.  Got the 2.5" rail on the side of the float tube for the light.  Almost done.  Maybe, just maybe, we can get to the range next week.

Pics when I get the thing to fit together.  I'll probably load a magazine up and try some manual feeding out by the garage before I take it to the range and find out it won't feed.  Better to know now than to wait till then.

[M1A4ME]

As usual, I didn't even think about taking pictures.  I just grabbed up the parts and headed for the garage.  Tried filing the bullet guide, no luck.  Tried stoning it, didn't want to have to stay at it a day or two.  Grabbed the dremel and a cutting wheel and removed some metal.  Then I grabbed polishing kit and did some polishing of the area after metal removal the edges from the angled part of the guide to the newly created flat part of the guide (to allow the bolt to move without making contact.)

The two halves go together and the take down pins fully insert/lock just like they should.  The bolt no longer contacts the bullet guide.  The bolt freely moves to the rear, or forward, with no dragging/hanging.



I took a magazine outside, loaded 10 rounds in it, put the safety on SAFE, inserted a magazine and pointed it at the ground and, using the charging handle I manually cycled all 10 through it.  Then I reloaded the magazine and did it again.  It just might work when I get to the range.

Looks wicked.



Rear view showing the blade angled off to allow a solid contact with the back of my right forearm to help steady it better.



Man, I hope it shoots nice groups.

Edited to add - just one more thought, I think I want a flashcan on it like I have on the .223 pistols.  I don't expect an 8" barreled 9MM to be too awful loud (I'd think just about all the powder will be burned up in a barrel twice as long as the Cz 75's) but the flash can will make it less loud for me and more loud for anyone on the wrong end of it.  And, I think it looks cool, too.

[M1A4ME]

Different threads?  What's with that???

Thanks for the heads up.

[M1A4ME]

Thanks for the info.  I was looking at KAK flash cans last night.  I believe they listed the threads they use.  I've just got to find out what threads my barrel uses.

Thanks again.

[Mccian]

Great info in this thread, awesome looking piece..... nice job!

[M1A4ME]

Thanks.

Oh, CDNN has the "good" magazines on sale for $22.99.  Just ordered 4 to complement the 3 ASC mags I bought the other day.

https://www.cdnnsports.com/ar15-9mm-32rd-metalform.html?___SID=U#.WnRl16inH4Y

[Luvdog]

When I built my 9mm SBR, I went with a KAW Linear Comp
https://www.kawvalleyprecision.com/KVP-Linear-Compensator-p/kvp-linear-blk.htm

[M1A4ME]

I'd looked over some of the KAW Valley parts previously. Went ahead and ordered the pistol caliber unit.

That should be it, when I get it.  I'll probably have to take the free float tube off and clamp the barrel in the vise to hold it while I get the flash suppressor off and the comp. on.  We'll see.

Need to check the weather and try to get to the range on a decent day next week so my wife can go and do some shooting, too.

[2morechains]

When you lock your bolt back, how much room do you have in front of the bolt face and the bolt catch?  If you?re using a standard carbine buffer I suspect you may have more room than you want.  9mm specific bolts are longer than the standard AR bolt to make up the difference. 

If there is too much space you could after repeated use damage your bolt catch.  To avoid this, some people put a spacer in the bufer tube (Spikes sells one), use about $1.75 in quarters stacked up In lieu of a spacer, or switch to a 9mm specific buffer (for example Spikes ST-9X) that is longer and heavier. 

Nice build. 

[M1A4ME]

When you lock your bolt back, how much room do you have in front of the bolt face and the bolt catch?  If you?re using a standard carbine buffer I suspect you may have more room than you want.  9mm specific bolts are longer than the standard AR bolt to make up the difference. 

If there is too much space you could after repeated use damage your bolt catch.  To avoid this, some people put a spacer in the bufer tube (Spikes sells one), use about $1.75 in quarters stacked up In lieu of a spacer, or switch to a 9mm specific buffer (for example Spikes ST-9X) that is longer and heavier. 

Nice build.

One of the things I didn't take pictures of (the little polymer spacer, carbine recoil spring and H2 buffer).  The little spacer looks almost like the plastic pieces they used to insert in the bottom of the metal table legs to keep them from gouging/scratching floors.  That gives me between 1/8" and 1/4" space between the bolt face and the bolt catch/stop when the bolt is all the way to the rear.

[M1A4ME]

Always ways to get by when you need them.  You just need to be open minded and willing to work on it.

When I was working at getting things right on the GII when I put that fixed (A1) stock on it I used to buffers.  One on each end of the spring and sanded some off the rear buffers bumper to get the right amount of travel.  It worked fine. 

The final fix was to shorten a regular rifle buffer to the correct length and then drill a new hole in the buffer for the pin that hold the bumper in.  Works like a charm.

[2morechains]

When you lock your bolt back, how much room do you have in front of the bolt face and the bolt catch?  If you?re using a standard carbine buffer I suspect you may have more room than you want.  9mm specific bolts are longer than the standard AR bolt to make up the difference. 

If there is too much space you could after repeated use damage your bolt catch.  To avoid this, some people put a spacer in the bufer tube (Spikes sells one), use about $1.75 in quarters stacked up In lieu of a spacer, or switch to a 9mm specific buffer (for example Spikes ST-9X) that is longer and heavier. 

Nice build.

One of the things I didn't take pictures of (the little polymer spacer, carbine recoil spring and H2 buffer).  The little spacer looks almost like the plastic pieces they used to insert in the bottom of the metal table legs to keep them from gouging/scratching floors.  That gives me between 1/8" and 1/4" space between the bolt face and the bolt catch/stop when the bolt is all the way to the rear.

In that case you?re probably going to be OK.  I?ve got about 1/8? of space on mine and no issues with the bolt catch after 5K-ish rounds.