My Pre-B refinishing and modification diary

[Underwhere]

Yes it is odd. That would indicate something to with the process I think.
 I haven't used your method, only slow rust. I've had a few spots show after the first or second cycle but they've always disappeared or minimized with more cycles. I've always been careful not to overlap during acid application. I use bore patches soaked and then squeezed out almost dry, just enough to wet the surface.
That said, some overlap is unavoidable.

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I use bore patches as well. I don't squeeze almost dry.. I try and apply so it doesn't drip. Maybe I'll try a bit drier.

The issue is how to hold the frame. When dangling from wire it moves too much.

I was thinking of welding a handle that would thread into the threaded hole for the mag and trigger bar support spring.

[Earl Keese]

 I think SP01SHADOW uses glue applicators made for PVC cement. I can never get them squeezed out enough and they leave fuzz/hairs, at least the ones I bought.
 I use a couple patches stacked and folded twice. Like I said, I squeeze them almost dry. After a pass or two, I turn to a different side of the fold, applying a single layer in one direction with minimal overlap.It's still enough to wet the surface. It drys very quickly. As long as it's dry, sometimes I set the piece down to get a different grip. I usually put a piece of 8x11 copy paper on the bench to ensure I have a clean surface. I do change the patches frequently as they pick up rust while wiping.
 I hold the frame by sticking four fingers inside and hold the frame upside down, similar with the slide. I don't worry too much holding small parts as long as I don't touch them while wet.
 You heat the parts before applying acid correct? I can see that would be hard to hold then.

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[Underwhere]

I think SP01SHADOW uses glue applicators made for PVC cement. I can never get them squeezed out enough and they leave fuzz/hairs, at least the ones I bought.
 I use a couple patches stacked and folded twice. Like I said, I squeeze them almost dry. After a pass or two, I turn to a different side of the fold, applying a single layer in one direction with minimal overlap.It's still enough to wet the surface. It drys very quickly. As long as it's dry, sometimes I set the piece down to get a different grip. I usually put a piece of 8x11 copy paper on the bench to ensure I have a clean surface. I do change the patches frequently as they pick up rust while wiping.
 I hold the frame by sticking four fingers inside and hold the frame upside down, similar with the slide. I don't worry too much holding small parts as long as I don't touch them while wet.
 You heat the parts before applying acid correct? I can see that would be hard to hold then.

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Yes I heat with a propane torch. 150 to 200 degrees. A bit hot to the touch.

I definitely over apply. That could be it.

[Earl Keese]

Definitely a challenge to apply with finesse when the piece is hot enough to burn you. I'm so comfortable slow rusting, I can't imagine doing it any differently.

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[Underwhere]

Definitely a challenge to apply with finesse when the piece is hot enough to burn you. I'm so comfortable slow rusting, I can't imagine doing it any differently.

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That probably my next project. I have some Laurel Mountain sitting here. I just figured I needed to replicate what I did for the slide so it would match.

Hopefully I'll get to another gun at some point. I'd like to try the beavertail a different way.

[Earl Keese]

I've tried Laurel Mountain and Brownells. So far I've had better results with LM, but I have more experience with it than the Brownells. I built a box for rusting so that speeds up the process considerably. Hanging in a humid bathroom works great too, but the wife doesn't appreciate it.

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[Underwhere]

Bluing Cycle #9
This is cycle #9 for the frame.

This time I tried to go much lighter on the patch instead using it soaked.

Usually with what I've been doing, after the third wipe the frame gets pretty dark even before boiling.

This time it remained fairly bright. I could still see the spots under the rusting solution before boiling.

Here it is after carding.

I think this must be some sort of oil contamination. I just can't think of how other than my fingers. The back strap almost looks like a finger print.


I feel like I should take one of those restaurant server staff trainings that show you how to avoid contaminating food.

[Underwhere]

Bluing Cycle #10
This is cycle #10 for the frame.

I tried going with a different applicator. I was using bore patches but I switched to glue applicators. I submerged in acetone first and let it dry.

Originally on another gun I started this way but it took a lot of finesse with the propane torch to prevent the frame from getting too hot. If it did, the applicator would gum up and become difficult to work with.

I've been Bluing so much recently that I know my torch now and that's no longer an issue.

I went heavier on the rusting solution than last time.

Here are the results.

The frame is darker after the 3rd rusting wipe.

Some of the blotches are diminishing (I think)

I'm not sure if this frame is getting any darker. I'm more concerned about removing the imperfections.

[Underwhere]

Here are the controls after 2 days in motor oil.

[Underwhere]

Bluing Cycle #11
This is cycle #11 for the frame.

I had hoped this would be the last one but it's not going to be.

I used the glue applicator and went about applying as usual. A heavy coat.

Then thinking this may be it, I boiled for 20 minutes (final boil) instead of the 5 for all the incremental boils.

It turned out very streaky for some reason.

So I'm going to do another cycle and boil for 5 minutes only. If it's good enough and the streaks are gone I may toss it in afterwards for another 20.

I also still have no idea whether the Bluing will end up matching the slide. I don't think it's getting darker with every cycle at this point.

[Underwhere]

Bluing Cycle #12
This is cycle #12 for the frame.

I tried another more heavy application and here are the results.

I also emailed Mark Lee and he responded today. He told me that if I believed to be oil contaminated I could wash in simple green and rinse well before my next Bluing.

He also said that I could use the polyfoam paint brushes to apply.

He noted that in some guns the oil seeps out of places and sometimes it takes a ton of cycles to finish. He said a double barrel shotgun took him 20.

I'm only on 12

[Underwhere]

I washed in simple green and then used a heat gun to dry it.

I also bought a few polyfoam brushes but when I went to clean one in acetone it expanded and got all loose on me so I decided not to use it.

[Underwhere]

Bluing Cycle #13
This is cycle #13 for the frame.

This is after simple green and another cycle.

It's still streaky. I may just continue to do a few more to see if it fixes it. Not a ton to card anymore.

One side looks OK. The other does not.

I wonder if the gun sitting directly on one side during the boiling has something to do with it.

I'm not suspending the frame in the pot.

[sberres]

  I tried a bit of the express method a couple of projects back; a Star BM. I heated the parts
enough to where it was not quite possible to hang onto them using a heat gun. I wound up using a much heavier application of the solution as it would dry so quickly upon application. Then as it cooled it would form rust much more quickly and heavily than I?d previously experienced and much more in line with the heavy red bloom so often seen in picture threads for this subject. I was even using a small acid/flux brush for application in the harder to reach textured areas like slide serrations and the like and was having no problems with dripping or puddling or really needing to blot it dry.
  I think I determined that one done in about 4 cycles as it seemed quite uniform and no longer showing the heavy bloom. After I got all of the parts treated and oil thoroughly worked in I noticed that my sanded flat areas were much more matte than I was anticipating. I?d only sanded to about 150 grit specifically to leave a visible grain but these areas were quite a flat, matte. In some areas almost seeming like some very fine pitting.
  My conclusion was that I don?t care much for the express method of heating parts to anything greater than slightly warm. I feel that this made the acid solution more aggressive and formed much larger rust particles and the start of some etching.
  The next project was another Star BM. This was done as earlier projects with only basic warming and finished the same as the previous with glass bead blast on all contours and all flats sanded to 150. I still used the brush to adequately reach recesses and irregular surfaces and then blotted these areas dry with a clean cotton ball before using the wrung out cottonball to apply to the rest of the surfaces. Things progressed more in line with what I?d seen before with things continually evening out over 6 or more cycles. The difference between those two, identical guns, is night and day, at least to me. And it is more on par with the progress and results of the slow rust applied to my CZ?s.
  I?ve only used the Brownells so far and have no reason to change. But I do think that preheating maybe provides a heavy enough application and possibly more deeply penetrating oxide that it may be throwing you off. Differences in the steel inherent to casting may contribute to this. I don?t think you should start over as I think the final treatments will render what you presently see as moot, but maybe on the next one try something other than the express method. Put the slow back in ?slow rust?, so to speak.

[Earl Keese]

I don't hang my parts for boiling anymore, it uses too much water and takes too long to boil. I just lay them in the pan with enough water to completely cover them. No issues so far.

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