SOLVED!! DA will not work after internal polish job & RRK install. Seeking help

[myczaccount]

OK, I got the TB spring to ride on the grooves, but it hasn't solved the issue. Seems to be an issue with the hammer as noted in post #1.

When the hammer is completely forward, the DA will not reset:



However, when I move the hammer slightly back, the DA resets (you can see the tiny gap):



At this point I am at a loss. Why wont the DA reset when the hammer is totally forward? Perhaps something to do with the disconnector that came with the RRK? Unless my timing is truly off, and the hammer isn't supposed to go that far forward, thereby preventing the reset...

[Tok36]

It sounds like a disconector clearance issue. Each and every CZ pistol is a little different. In some cases due to tolerance stacking (the way all of the internal parts meet up inside the action) the disconector can require a bit of fitting to regain the DA reset. CGW parts are generally designed to "drop in" but in some cases with some pistols a bit of fitting is required.

I suggest contacting Cajun Gun Works to confirm if this is in fact the issue you have encountered.  While i can make an educated guess, CGW can give you a solid answer.


Edit: turns out it was the DA pre-travel trigger set scerw setting. read more below.

[1SOW]

Did you try it with the slide OFF or with the slide on.  That may/can hold the hammer back just a skosh.  It did on one of my CZs at one time.  Are the trigger bar spring riding at the correct height to lift the TB high enough??

[myczaccount]

It sounds like a disconector clearance issue. Each and every CZ pistol is a little different. In some cases due to tolerance stacking (the way all of the internal parts meet up inside the action) the disconector can require a bit of fitting to regain the DA reset. CGW parts are generally designed to "drop in" but in some cases with some pistols a bit of fitting is required.

I suggest contacting Cajun Gun Works to confirm if this is in fact the issue you have encountered.  While i can make an educated guess, CGW can give you a solid answer.

Thanks both for your advice. I actually think it may be directly related to the RRK. As I make adjustments to the DA screw at the top of the trigger, that gap seems to diminish, and reset occurs more consistently, but still not reliably. Although that can simply be due to a lack of the recommended red loctite. Perhaps once I lock that tension screw in place, all will be well.

I think I still may call to confirm. If it's too annoying, I'll reinstall the factory trigger.

Did you try it with the slide OFF or with the slide on.  That may/can hold the hammer back just a skosh.  It did on one of my CZs at one time.  Are the trigger bar spring riding at the correct height to lift the TB high enough??

I tried with both slide on and off.


Either way, the trigger pulls aren't very light despite the polish jobs. Still seems to be over 8lb DA and over 4lb SA. Is that normal? (I have a 13lb mainspring)

[Underwhere]

Wait.
You're having this issue after putting the trigger screws in?

Remove the screws completely.
Try it again

Also - when you set the screws did you do it in SA mode? Did you have an O ring blocking the hammer from hitting the firing pin? Both of those scenarios will cause incorrect settings.

[Underwhere]

It sounds like a disconector clearance issue. Each and every CZ pistol is a little different. In some cases due to tolerance stacking (the way all of the internal parts meet up inside the action) the disconector can require a bit of fitting to regain the DA reset. CGW parts are generally designed to "drop in" but in some cases with some pistols a bit of fitting is required.

I suggest contacting Cajun Gun Works to confirm if this is in fact the issue you have encountered.  While i can make an educated guess, CGW can give you a solid answer.

Thanks both for your advice. I actually think it may be directly related to the RRK. As I make adjustments to the DA screw at the top of the trigger, that gap seems to diminish, and reset occurs more consistently, but still not reliably. Although that can simply be due to a lack of the recommended red loctite. Perhaps once I lock that tension screw in place, all will be well.

I think I still may call to confirm. If it's too annoying, I'll reinstall the factory trigger.

Did you try it with the slide OFF or with the slide on.  That may/can hold the hammer back just a skosh.  It did on one of my CZs at one time.  Are the trigger bar spring riding at the correct height to lift the TB high enough??

I tried with both slide on and off.


Either way, the trigger pulls aren't very light despite the polish jobs. Still seems to be over 8lb DA and over 4lb SA. Is that normal? (I have a 13lb mainspring)

If all you modified was the disconnector and trigger with a polish I wouldn't expect much difference in trigger weights.

The RRK is for trigger position, travel and reset. A little bit for DA feel.

[cntrydawwwg]

Wait.
You're having this issue after putting the trigger screws in?

Remove the screws completely.
Try it again

Also - when you set the screws did you do it in SA mode? Did you have an O ring blocking the hammer from hitting the firing pin? Both of those scenarios will cause incorrect settings.

This^^^^ back those screws out. Maybe it got missed, but I mentioned that in my 1st post[emoji6]

[myczaccount]

Wait.
You're having this issue after putting the trigger screws in?

Remove the screws completely.
Try it again

Also - when you set the screws did you do it in SA mode? Did you have an O ring blocking the hammer from hitting the firing pin? Both of those scenarios will cause incorrect settings.

This^^^^ back those screws out. Maybe it got missed, but I mentioned that in my 1st post[emoji6]

Ok I?ll try this. But I?m curious, why do they need to be removed? Aren?t they there for a purpose? Also, the problem seems to go away when I tighten the upper tension screw so it?d seem that removing it entirely would cause the reset issue to return.

cntrydawwwg, when you said ?try backing them back into the trigger and see if that helps the reset, then adjust from there.?, did that mean removing them from the trigger? Or tighten all the way?

[Underwhere]

Wait.
You're having this issue after putting the trigger screws in?

Remove the screws completely.
Try it again

Also - when you set the screws did you do it in SA mode? Did you have an O ring blocking the hammer from hitting the firing pin? Both of those scenarios will cause incorrect settings.

This^^^^ back those screws out. Maybe it got missed, but I mentioned that in my 1st post[emoji6]

Ok I?ll try this. But I?m curious, why do they need to be removed? Aren?t they there for a purpose? Also, the problem seems to go away when I tighten the upper tension screw so it?d seem that removing it entirely would cause the reset issue to return.

cntrydawwwg, when you said ?try backing them back into the trigger and see if that helps the reset, then adjust from there.?, did that mean removing them from the trigger? Or tighten all the way?

We say remove them because if they aren't adjusted correctly they may inhibit the correct function of the hammer and sear.

If you remove them and everything works then we can talk you through how to put them back in and adjust them correctly.

If you used red Loctite you may need to heat up the screw with a match or torch to loosen the Loctite if it has already cured.

[myczaccount]

Wait.
You're having this issue after putting the trigger screws in?

Remove the screws completely.
Try it again

Also - when you set the screws did you do it in SA mode? Did you have an O ring blocking the hammer from hitting the firing pin? Both of those scenarios will cause incorrect settings.

This^^^^ back those screws out. Maybe it got missed, but I mentioned that in my 1st post[emoji6]

Ok I?ll try this. But I?m curious, why do they need to be removed? Aren?t they there for a purpose? Also, the problem seems to go away when I tighten the upper tension screw so it?d seem that removing it entirely would cause the reset issue to return.

cntrydawwwg, when you said ?try backing them back into the trigger and see if that helps the reset, then adjust from there.?, did that mean removing them from the trigger? Or tighten all the way?

We say remove them because if they aren't adjusted correctly they may inhibit the correct function of the hammer and sear.

If you remove them and everything works then we can talk you through how to put them back in and adjust them correctly.

If you used red Loctite you may need to heat up the screw with a match or torch to loosen the Loctite if it has already cured.

Thanks. I havent used any loctite yet. I just removed the upper screw and the reset is operating perfectly!

Also curious, once I properly install and loctite them, how difficult is it to remove at a later point? I'm beginning to think the RRK may not be worth the trouble...

[Underwhere]

You'll need to heat it up with a flame if you use red loctite.

The RRK is worth it...as well as the other parts.

I personally do it all at once. RRK, Race Hammer + Sear, hammer spring with extended firing pin.
In my opinion the Race Hammer changes the trigger feel dramatically.

[myczaccount]

You'll need to heat it up with a flame if you use red loctite.

The RRK is worth it...as well as the other parts.

I personally do it all at once. RRK, Race Hammer + Sear, hammer spring with extended firing pin.
In my opinion the Race Hammer changes the trigger feel dramatically.

OK, I removed the upper screw. Reset is good now. What should I do now? Also, is blue loctite sufficient? Or is red the only acceptable option. Also, it doesn't appear I need to remove the lower (SA) tension screw, right?

[cntrydawwwg]

I did mean tighten into the trigger. Either removing them, or tightening them into the trigger serves the same purpose. It takes them out of the equation, gets them away from the frame[emoji6]. If all works correctly once the screws are taken out of the equation, then that means the adjustment of the screws was causing the issue. If not, then the issue needs resolved before the screws are adjusted.

CZ?s can have different tolerances. For example, my Tactical doesn?t need the overtravel screw. It?s GTO without it for me. I couldn?t notice a difference with or without the screw.

    I highly suggest calling CGW.

[myczaccount]

I did mean tighten into the trigger. Either removing them, or tightening them into the trigger serves the same purpose. It takes them out of the equation, gets them away from the frame[emoji6]. If all works correctly once the screws are taken out of the equation, then that means the adjustment of the screws was causing the issue. If not, then the issue needs resolved before the screws are adjusted.

CZ?s can have different tolerances. For example, my Tactical doesn?t need the overtravel screw. It?s GTO without it for me. I couldn?t notice a difference with or without the screw.

    I highly suggest calling CGW.

Thanks. As I recently mentioned to Underwhere, once I remove the upper screw, reset is perfect. I think I just need to carefully install it and loctite it in the right place, then I should be GTG. But it needs to be exact since it'll involve some level of permanent fixing with the loctite.

Any good resources on exact placement of the screws? Videos or threads?

Thanks so much for your help. I feel very relieved!!!

[cntrydawwwg]

Each pistol is different. There should be instructions on how to adjust that came with your parts.

Question..... Do you have any other mods in the pistol? I noticed the blue hammer spring, do you also have the short reset installed? If so, did you order the RRK T2 or just the RRK? IIRC, you need the RRK T2 if you have the short reset.

Sorry, just want to make sure we have as much info as possible.