SOLVED!! DA will not work after internal polish job & RRK install. Seeking help

[myczaccount]

Each pistol is different. There should be instructions on how to adjust that came with your parts.

Question..... Do you have any other mods in the pistol? I noticed the blue hammer spring, do you also have the short reset installed? If so, did you order the RRK T2 or just the RRK? IIRC, you need the RRK T2 if you have the short reset.

Sorry, just want to make sure we have as much info as possible.

Thanks, and no need to be sorry! It's fine to ask lol I appreciate it. I did my due diligence and made sure all my parts were compatible, so I do not have the SRS and therefore have the regular RRK. I am aware its may not be compatible with SRS.  However, I seemed to have misplaced the instructions. Where can I find them?

All I have in the pistol is:

14# Recoil Spring
13# Mainsrping (and Reduced power FP spring)
Reduced power trigger return spring
RRK
Floating trigger pin
Polished all internals.

In my CGW shopping cart for next order:
RP plunger spring
a bunch or spare springs
Parts for my new P-07

[Underwhere]

With putting in these screws:

1. Remove any O-rings or things you have that block the movement of the hammer.
2. If you are DA/SA you'll need to set these in the DA mode. (Not with the hammer back in SA).
3. I set the top screw first. Remove the overtravel screw. Sometimes you can reach the top set screw from the trigger guard. CGW's instructions pretty much cover this...you want to set the screw until the gun stops working...then go backwards until it starts to work again. Then go 1/8 turn just to ensure you have some margin of error.
4. Set the overtravel the same way (do it in DA mode, not SA). Screw it until the trigger no longer breaks. Then back up until it does. Then back up 1/8 more for your margin of error.

Good luck. Glad you got it figured out. (And the spring too)

[Tok36]

Man i never think of those darn set screws. Glad you found the issue OP.

[myczaccount]

Man i never think of those darn set screws. Glad you found the issue OP.

Thanks for your help. I see your name on other forums too, so just seeing you here was a relief!!

With putting in these screws:

1. Remove any O-rings or things you have that block the movement of the hammer.
2. If you are DA/SA you'll need to set these in the DA mode. (Not with the hammer back in SA).
3. I set the top screw first. Remove the overtravel screw. Sometimes you can reach the top set screw from the trigger guard. CGW's instructions pretty much cover this...you want to set the screw until the gun stops working...then go backwards until it starts to work again. Then go 1/8 turn just to ensure you have some margin of error.
4. Set the overtravel the same way (do it in DA mode, not SA). Screw it until the trigger no longer breaks. Then back up until it does. Then back up 1/8 more for your margin of error.

Good luck. Glad you got it figured out. (And the spring too)

Thank you guys so much for your help!! What an amazing forum. I am extremely grateful.

At what point do I apply the loctite? And is blue sufficient? Or must it be red?

[Underwhere]

Man i never think of those darn set screws. Glad you found the issue OP.

Thanks for your help. I see your name on other forums too, so just seeing you here was a relief!!

With putting in these screws:

1. Remove any O-rings or things you have that block the movement of the hammer.
2. If you are DA/SA you'll need to set these in the DA mode. (Not with the hammer back in SA).
3. I set the top screw first. Remove the overtravel screw. Sometimes you can reach the top set screw from the trigger guard. CGW's instructions pretty much cover this...you want to set the screw until the gun stops working...then go backwards until it starts to work again. Then go 1/8 turn just to ensure you have some margin of error.
4. Set the overtravel the same way (do it in DA mode, not SA). Screw it until the trigger no longer breaks. Then back up until it does. Then back up 1/8 more for your margin of error.

Good luck. Glad you got it figured out. (And the spring too)

Thank you guys so much for your help!! What an amazing forum. I am extremely grateful.

At what point do I apply the loctite? And is blue sufficient? Or must it be red?

Use red loctite...but given your situation here's what I would suggest.

Try adjusting the screws without any loctite. Make sure everything works so you understand how things should operate and the effect of 1/8 turn on a grub screw.

Once you feel comfortable, remove the screws and apply the loctite and re-adjust. Then let it sit overnight. It shouldn't move again.

You're almost there. (If you buy the race hammer you may need to re-adjust later)

[myczaccount]

Use red loctite...but given your situation here's what I would suggest.

Try adjusting the screws without any loctite. Make sure everything works so you understand how things should operate and the effect of 1/8 turn on a grub screw.

Once you feel comfortable, remove the screws and apply the loctite and re-adjust. Then let it sit overnight. It shouldn't move again.

You're almost there. (If you buy the race hammer you may need to re-adjust later)

OK, will do. I doubt I'll get a diff hammer.

Thank you so much. I honestly thought I would never solve this online and would need to call/send in to CGW.

You guys are awesome. I'm so happy I just got my 4th CZ last week (got my 1st last August!).

Is there any place I can find the CGW instructions for the RRK install/adjustment?

[tdogg]

I don't own a RRK trigger but do have triggers with an overtravel screw.  In order to set the overtravel on the trigger, you want to make sure the hammer hooks clear the sear as looking from the rear of the slide. 

Start without loctite and get a feel for the process then repeat with loctite and make sure you degrease the threads prior to application.

1.  Adjust overtravel screw until hammer will just drop in single action
2.  Pull trigger to hammer drop and hold trigger to rear of frame
3.  Thumb hammer back and forth and feel and visually inspect for interference between the sear and hammer hooks
4.  If you feel or see interference adjust overtravel screw out (loosen) slightly and retest for interference.
5.  If no interference, then back out an additional 1/8th turn to provide clearance for future debris accumulation (and let loctite set)

Angus as stated in the past he doesn't run overtravel screws for fear of them moving at an inopportune time.  I do run them and haven't had an issue.

Cheers,
Toby

[myczaccount]

Angus as stated in the past he doesn't run overtravel screws for fear of them moving at an inopportune time.

Good advice from Angus.

Rob Leatham - one of the greatest shooters of all time - made a similar point on modifying trigger movement (in general, not specific to CZs), and how it can affect reliability:

"The stock mechanism is designed around specifications that allow it to function properly in extreme conditions. This means there is allowance in the trigger mechanism's tolerances to permit dirt and grime and water and whatever to be present, yet still function properly. These tolerances are there for a reason. Reducing trigger movement requires the removal of any excess tolerances. If done poorly or incorrectly, the result will be poor reliability or worse, an unsafe condition.
We competition shooters have always been willing to trade a certain amount of the "abuse and neglect" buffer designed into a system for a performance improvement. This does not come without cost. At the very least you will have higher maintenance and possibly reduced reliability under adverse conditions."

Well, great. Now you got me all nervous about my RRK which I haven't yet loctited. CGW claims there are thousands in use without issue...

[Underwhere]

All depends on what you use it for.

Would I take my CZ's with pretravel and overtravel screws, exposed hammer and start dumping them in mud and dirt and expect 100% reliability? No.
That's what my ugly Glocks are for.

I also wouldn't take my Glocks and expect them to perform the same way my CZ's do.

[myczaccount]

All depends on what you use it for.

Would I take my CZ's with pretravel and overtravel screws, exposed hammer and start dumping them in mud and dirt and expect 100% reliability? No.
That's what my ugly Glocks are for.

I also wouldn't take my Glocks and expect them to perform the same way my CZ's do.

It's mainly for home defense and range use.

[Tok36]

A good shooter doesn't need a custom trigger job or the elimination of pretravel/overtravel to shoot well.

The many hickok45 videos are examples of that.

For home/personal defense, reliability is paramount.

Ill give you the Pre-travle/Over-travle, but in my opinion even a good shooter can benefit noticeably from a custom trigger job on a CZ pistol.

[Tok36]

A good shooter doesn't need a custom trigger job or the elimination of pretravel/overtravel to shoot well.

The many hickok45 videos are examples of that.

For home/personal defense, reliability is paramount.

Ill give you the Pre-travle/Over-travle, but even a good shooter can benefit noticeably from a custom trigger job.

Not if the custom trigger job isn't reliable.

I believe that CGW drop in parts have proved their reliability at this point. In some cases they may even increase the reliability of a CZ.

[Tok36]

In some cases they may even increase the reliability of a CZ.

And in some cases they may even decrease the reliability of a CZ.

 

A tuned CZs will be happier than a stock CZs. A pistols personal sense of well being is paramount.   

[Underwhere]

I'm not sure why this is even a discussion.

This is the gunsmithing forum. I would expect that people would be modifying guns. With that is an expectation of change from the reliability of what came out of box. (whether good or bad)

This thread didn't start with a reliability problem but rather an installation problem.

And through the assistance of people here, the OP is on his way to solving it.

Personally I have yet to have a failure in any of my CGW modified guns.

[cntrydawwwg]

Well now that that?s gone sideways real quick[emoji85][emoji86][emoji87]
   
   Myczaccount, only YOU and no one else can decide what mods YOU are comfortable with using. It?s all a PERSONAL opinion[emoji6]Some people like them, some don?t. For example? At this time, I don?t use the Pre/overtravel screws or even an aftermarket hammer on my carry/HD pistols. No other reason than PERSONAL preference. [emoji16]

Now getting back to the point of this thread[emoji57]
    Please keep us posted on your progress and if you get it all set up correctly. As I?ve mentioned before, CGW is just a phone call away, and they have some of the best CS I?ve seen in many, many years. It?s been a pleasure helping you, but sometimes we are just taking a wild guess whereas CGW can give a more precise answer.