Cz 75 Pre-B Questions

[LogoxSKUL]

Hey everyone, first time poster here. I was directed to ask this question here about my 1991 Pre-b 75 from commentors on reddit.

Just bought a Pre-B CZ 75 (made in 1991 if that makes a difference) and I would like to replace the trigger to a single action only, also like to reduce the trigger pull weight and travel/reset distance. Can someone tell me the exact parts I will need (like model number on what website or links to the parts)? I am not sure what to get because I know some parts are the same as B models and others won't work on pre-b. There is also a pin with a lanyard hole that sticks out past the grip that I am not sure the name of close to the magwell, is there a part I can get that is flush fitting?

I was looking at two single action only triggers from CZ custom, would either or both of these work? https://czcustom.com/cz-75-sa-aluminum-trigger-factory-custom.html       https://czcustom.com/cz-75sa-tactical-sports-single-action-only-trigger-black-al.html

Besides the trigger, what else is recommended?

Thanks for the help!

[Tok36]

Good question, I am not real good with the Pre-B's so i will also be interested to hear other forum members input on your question. I can tell you that the loop at the end of the grip is called a Lanyard Loop.

[M1A4ME]

Either trigger should work.  I prefer the straight one, but the choice is up to you.

Do a search on the forum here.  There have been several threads about converting a CZ 75 to SAO (single action only).  Some of them were CZ 75 Compacts (mine was) but the work is the same as the internal parts are the same.

To reduce/smooth out trigger pull you'll be replacing springs and polishing some internal parts.

It's fun.  Done correctly you'll end up with a really nice handling pistol.

[myczaccount]

Welcome to the forum! I also recently got a Pre B (95) that I?ll be restoring soon. I?m not sure about your SAO question, but the pin you want to replace the lanyard one is this: https://cajungunworks.com/product/23-hammer-plug-pin/

For future reference, google ?CZ 75 parts diagram? to find a part you need to name. I?d also recommend buying the Tekmat for CZ 75 which has a parts diagram.

Good luck, and feel free to introduce yourself in the new users section!

[LogoxSKUL]

Welcome to the forum! I also recently got a Pre B (95) that I?ll be restoring soon. I?m not sure about your SAO question, but the pin you want to replace the lanyard one is this: https://cajungunworks.com/product/23-hammer-plug-pin/

For future reference, google ?CZ 75 parts diagram? to find a part you need to name. I?d also recommend buying the Tekmat for CZ 75 which has a parts diagram.

Good luck, and feel free to introduce yourself in the new users section!

Thanks! I should have thought about googling the diagram.

[Earl Keese]

I had an old post with all these part numbers, but can't find it. From CGW, you will need a trigger, either #5SAO(oem style) or #6SAO(flat). Both of these triggers have pre and overtravel screws. You'll also need a floating trigger pin(TR-PIN) and a reduced power trigger return spring(RP-TRS) if you want. Some people like the oem return spring for a crisper reset. On the guns I've done, the rp-trs is worth about a 1/2lb reduction in pull weight. Either way, buy an extra return spring. You can use the OEM hammer with the disconnector removed, but a Cajun race hammer or CZC Comp hammer will greatly improve pull weight and break. You will also have to file the safety leg on your sear or buy a CGW adjustable sear(AS-B)to use an aftermarket hammer. If you go with the adjustable sear, you'll need this spacer as well( S-Spacer). Lastly you'll need a hammer pin(HPIN). I would suggest buying a starter punch from CGW if you don't have one(to remove the OEM trigger pin). With an OEM Tac Sport hammer(works if your gun came with a wide hammer), OEM mainspring, oem sear, and rptrs, my SAO pre-B trigger pulls at 2.5 lbs. You can go lighter by bending the trigger return spring, but the reset won't be as positive. I think that's everything, somebody will chime in if I forgot something.

[LogoxSKUL]

I had an old post with all these part numbers, but can't find it. From CGW, you will need a trigger, either #5SAO(oem style) or #6SAO(flat). Both of these triggers have pre and overtravel screws. You'll also need a floating trigger pin(TR-PIN) and a reduced power trigger return spring(RP-TRS) if you want. Some people like the oem return spring for a crisper reset. On the guns I've done, the rp-trs is worth about a 1/2lb reduction in pull weight. Either way, buy an extra return spring. You can use the OEM hammer with the disconnector removed, but a Cajun race hammer or CZC Comp hammer will greatly improve pull weight and break. You will also have to file the safety leg on your sear or buy a CGW adjustable sear(AS-B)to use an aftermarket hammer. If you go with the adjustable sear, you'll need this spacer as well( S-Spacer). Lastly you'll need a hammer pin(HPIN). I would suggest buying a starter punch from CGW if you don't have one(to remove the OEM trigger pin). With an OEM Tac Sport hammer(works if your gun came with a wide hammer), OEM mainspring, oem sear, and rptrs, my SAO pre-B trigger pulls at 2.5 lbs. You can go lighter by bending the trigger return spring, but the reset won't be as positive. I think that's everything, somebody will chime in if I forgot something.

Thanks for the help. I like the looks of the pre-b hammer and replacing the mainspring with a 13# and extended firing pin was less expensive, which is why I was wanting to go that route. I read that the 75B extended firing pin would not work in the pre-b but I am not sure if that is true or not (someone else said that an extended cz 85 firing pin is what is needed for pre-b).

[Earl Keese]

I had an old post with all these part numbers, but can't find it. From CGW, you will need a trigger, either #5SAO(oem style) or #6SAO(flat). Both of these triggers have pre and overtravel screws. You'll also need a floating trigger pin(TR-PIN) and a reduced power trigger return spring(RP-TRS) if you want. Some people like the oem return spring for a crisper reset. On the guns I've done, the rp-trs is worth about a 1/2lb reduction in pull weight. Either way, buy an extra return spring. You can use the OEM hammer with the disconnector removed, but a Cajun race hammer or CZC Comp hammer will greatly improve pull weight and break. You will also have to file the safety leg on your sear or buy a CGW adjustable sear(AS-B)to use an aftermarket hammer. If you go with the adjustable sear, you'll need this spacer as well( S-Spacer). Lastly you'll need a hammer pin(HPIN). I would suggest buying a starter punch from CGW if you don't have one(to remove the OEM trigger pin). With an OEM Tac Sport hammer(works if your gun came with a wide hammer), OEM mainspring, oem sear, and rptrs, my SAO pre-B trigger pulls at 2.5 lbs. You can go lighter by bending the trigger return spring, but the reset won't be as positive. I think that's everything, somebody will chime in if I forgot something.

Thanks for the help. I like the looks of the pre-b hammer and replacing the mainspring with a 13# and extended firing pin was less expensive, which is why I was wanting to go that route. I read that the 75B extended firing pin would not work in the pre-b but I am not sure if that is true or not (someone else said that an extended cz 85 firing pin is what is needed for pre-b).

Not sure I understand. I thought you asked for a parts list for an SAO conversion. Changing the mainspring will affect DA pull weight, not SA. One of the benefits of SAO is you can keep the OEM mainspring. With an OEM mainspring, no need for an extended firing pin. You can keep your spur hammer if you like, but it will likely have some creep/camming. If you want to keep it DA/SA, the lighter mainspring will help DA pull, but SA won't change much. SA pull is affected by the hammer hooks and trigger return spring. The extended firing pin that fits a pre-b is the same as an 85C or Shadow.

[LogoxSKUL]

I had an old post with all these part numbers, but can't find it. From CGW, you will need a trigger, either #5SAO(oem style) or #6SAO(flat). Both of these triggers have pre and overtravel screws. You'll also need a floating trigger pin(TR-PIN) and a reduced power trigger return spring(RP-TRS) if you want. Some people like the oem return spring for a crisper reset. On the guns I've done, the rp-trs is worth about a 1/2lb reduction in pull weight. Either way, buy an extra return spring. You can use the OEM hammer with the disconnector removed, but a Cajun race hammer or CZC Comp hammer will greatly improve pull weight and break. You will also have to file the safety leg on your sear or buy a CGW adjustable sear(AS-B)to use an aftermarket hammer. If you go with the adjustable sear, you'll need this spacer as well( S-Spacer). Lastly you'll need a hammer pin(HPIN). I would suggest buying a starter punch from CGW if you don't have one(to remove the OEM trigger pin). With an OEM Tac Sport hammer(works if your gun came with a wide hammer), OEM mainspring, oem sear, and rptrs, my SAO pre-B trigger pulls at 2.5 lbs. You can go lighter by bending the trigger return spring, but the reset won't be as positive. I think that's everything, somebody will chime in if I forgot something.

Thanks for the help. I like the looks of the pre-b hammer and replacing the mainspring with a 13# and extended firing pin was less expensive, which is why I was wanting to go that route. I read that the 75B extended firing pin would not work in the pre-b but I am not sure if that is true or not (someone else said that an extended cz 85 firing pin is what is needed for pre-b).

Not sure I understand. I thought you asked for a parts list for an SAO conversion. Changing the mainspring will affect DA pull weight, not SA. One of the benefits of SAO is you can keep the OEM mainspring. With an OEM mainspring, no need for an extended firing pin. You can keep your spur hammer if you like, but it will likely have some creep/camming. If you want to keep it DA/SA, the lighter mainspring will help DA pull, but SA won't change much. SA pull is affected by the hammer hooks and trigger return spring. The extended firing pin that fits a pre-b is the same as an 85C or Shadow.

Thank you so much! I did not know that... I am used to working on rifles and striker fired guns. Everything makes sense now haha.

[Underwhere]

Hey everyone, first time poster here. I was directed to ask this question here about my 1991 Pre-b 75 from commentors on reddit.

Just bought a Pre-B CZ 75 (made in 1991 if that makes a difference) and I would like to replace the trigger to a single action only, also like to reduce the trigger pull weight and travel/reset distance. Can someone tell me the exact parts I will need (like model number on what website or links to the parts)? I am not sure what to get because I know some parts are the same as B models and others won't work on pre-b. There is also a pin with a lanyard hole that sticks out past the grip that I am not sure the name of close to the magwell, is there a part I can get that is flush fitting?

I was looking at two single action only triggers from CZ custom, would either or both of these work? https://czcustom.com/cz-75-sa-aluminum-trigger-factory-custom.html       https://czcustom.com/cz-75sa-tactical-sports-single-action-only-trigger-black-al.html

Besides the trigger, what else is recommended?

Thanks for the help!

I just did exactly this. (A pre-b to SAO)
Your best bet is to call Cajun Gunworks. They can set you up with exactly what you need. But nevertheless here is my parts list.

The hammer plug pin replaces the lanyard loop pin that you have.

Options:
The race hammer kit is probably not necessary either. I just prefer it. You also have a ring hammer kit if you like that look instead. That is the hammer with a sear.
The 10X bushing increases accuracy.
Hammer spring 11.5# doesn't affect the SA pull too much but it's only $7. If you get this you'll need the extended firing pin which is $25. I did. Why not.
I agree with others that you'll want the starter punch to get the trigger pin out.

below is a description, the part #, the price, and the link.

Have fun.

SAO Trigger-----------------6SAO--------$42      https://cajungunworks.com/product/straight-single-action-aluminum-trigger/
Barrel Bushing 10X---------7580X-------$60      https://cajungunworks.com/product/barrel-bushing-sp-01-10x/
Floating Trigger Pin---------TR-PIN------$13      https://cajungunworks.com/product/tr-pin-cgws-exclusive-floating-trigger-pin/
Reduced   Trigger Return--RP-TRS------$7      https://cajungunworks.com/product/rp-trs-reduced-power-trigger-return-spring/
Race hammer and Sear----RHK---------$123   https://cajungunworks.com/product/race-hammer-kit/
Spacer-----------------------s-spacer----$4      https://cajungunworks.com/product/s-spacer-sear-spacer/
Hammer Pin-----------------hpin--------$2.50   https://cajungunworks.com/product/hpin/
new firing pin---------------ext-fp-------$25      https://cajungunworks.com/product/ext-fp-extended-firing-pin/
Hammer spring 11.5-------HS-12000---$7      https://cajungunworks.com/product/hs-12000-black-11-5-hammer-spring/
Hammer plug pin-----------23-----------$2      https://cajungunworks.com/product/23-hammer-plug-pin/

[M1A4ME]

I'm no expert, but all Pre B's are not identical.

There's the "Pre B", then there are "transitional Pre B's".

I don't know where your falls but some (the Pre B) have staked front sights, like a 1911.  The later "Pre B's" have a pinned in front sight just like the B models made today.  The barrel bushings are also different.

And so are the hammers.  My Pre B CZ 85 hammer will not work in the B model guns (too wide).  A later hammer might work on a Pre B slide (early guns) but it would be really skinny up top and leave a gap between the sides of the hammer and the sides of the slide.

Be sure of your hammer width before ordering a new hammer, so you don't end up with a skinny hammer in a "wide" slide.

When I rebuilt my Pre B I ordered one of the CGW match barrel bushings and then couldn't use it.  I did use it later on another CZ 75, so it wasn't wasted.

Good luck.  Oh, it's an addiction.

[Underwhere]

I'm no expert, but all Pre B's are not identical.

There's the "Pre B", then there are "transitional Pre B's".

I don't know where your falls but some (the Pre B) have staked front sights, like a 1911.  The later "Pre B's" have a pinned in front sight just like the B models made today.  The barrel bushings are also different.

And so are the hammers.  My Pre B CZ 85 hammer will not work in the B model guns (too wide).  A later hammer might work on a Pre B slide (early guns) but it would be really skinny up top and leave a gap between the sides of the hammer and the sides of the slide.

Be sure of your hammer width before ordering a new hammer, so you don't end up with a skinny hammer in a "wide" slide.

When I rebuilt my Pre B I ordered one of the CGW match barrel bushings and then couldn't use it.  I did use it later on another CZ 75, so it wasn't wasted.

Good luck.  Oh, it's an addiction.

That's good info.
I just call CGW and they set me straight.

For what it's worth: my parts list was from a 1994 Transitional Pre-B with a pinned front sight.

[LogoxSKUL]

Thanks for the part list and info! I believe my sights are staked. Also measured the width of the hammer and it was reading at 0.234" to 0.236" depending on what part of it I measured.

[SP01bob]

If the sights are staked, is it possible to replace them?

I have a question about SAO triggers. I haven't had the opportunity to shoot one that has been converted. What is the difference in pull?

I have several CZs, all DA/SA, and had my SP01 worked by Cajun. I love the trigger they installed and the reset is perfect. How does SAO compare or work better?

Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

[Bowenbuilt]

Cajun Gun Works can mill a dovetail into the front of the slide and install pretty much any kind of front sight you need. Depending on the width of your rear sight dovetail they can also do some milling to install a fixed or adjustable on the rear. The older Pre-B's have a .348 rear dovetail so your choices get kind of narrow but if it's a later version it would have the more modern dovetail cut of .384, with a slight modification most any of the newer rear sights can be installed.
The single action only mod makes for a seemingly better pull and reset in most instances and also sets the trigger back for a much easier reach. With some work you can make any 1911 blush by going to the SAO with the addition of a few additional parts. The ones i have done this to for myself just seem to have to wiggle to fire and reset. I love the flat face of the trigger and the easier trigger reach.