P10C oem guide rod screw loose

[Earl Keese]

Just a heads up for others that are still using the OEM captured recoil spring assy. I was reassembling my gun after push testing some new bullets and noticed the end of the rod moving around. Only took a second to tighten the screw, but something to keep an eye on nonetheless.

[jtsantes]

I just purchased a new P10C optics ready firearm and am having the same issue with the screw getting loose after 100-200 rounds.  I contacted CZ (who never heard of this issue) and they sent me a new assembly.  I am having the same issue.  I saw somewhere that is a polymer guide rod with a captured spring assembly.  Do you have any info on this or another guide rod/spring assembly that might not have this same issue.  Thanks in advance for your reply.

[Earl Keese]

Clean the threads thoroughly and reassemble with blue loctite.  Problem solved.

[cfrock]

One more.
I had the same issue on my 2nd P10c. Used threadlocker and problem has not resurfaced.

[dwhitehorne]

I saw somewhere that is a polymer guide rod with a captured spring assembly.  Do you have any info on this or another guide rod/spring assembly that might not have this same issue.  Thanks in advance for your reply.

The first versions of the P10C had a plastic guide rod assembly that CZ has been using for years without issue. US gun owners always ask for a metal guide rod and many aftermarket people make them for various pistol. When CZ updated the P10C they switched to a metal guide rod. One of my pistols has plastic and the other has metal. David

[Togmaster]

Clean the threads thoroughly and reassemble with blue loctite.  Problem solved.

I would think red for this application.

[nicky]

Using the red lock tite you may not be able to remove it is if you ever plan on changing the spring.

The blue will keep it in place and you would be able to remove it without much effort.

[Earl Keese]

Using the red lock tite you may not be able to remove it is if you ever plan on changing the spring.

The blue will keep it in place and you would be able to remove it without much effort.

Yep, blue hasn't failed in mine since I used it(over a year). I also keep two different red loctite products on the bench depending on application. Discussing loctite products here is getting to be like arguing over which caliber is better for self defense.

[Wobbly]

I would think red for this application.

As a Test Engineer at Siemens Energy, I tested various thread lockers for holding strength. It turns out that thread lockers not only have different strengths, but also different viscosities. The locker has to be able to flow into the gap between the screw and nut to do its 'work'. As threads get smaller, the gap between the threads also gets smaller, and "high strength" lockers can get excluded (and thereby fail to activate) merely because they can't physically get between the male and female threads.

I was able to measure the "torque out" on thousands of new screws by using Torx head fasteners and a torque wrench. As a long-time LocTite user, it was really quite fascinating... and at the same time the most boring test I ever ran. 50 screws with, and 50 screws without, in sizes 4mm, 5mm and 6mm, with various thread locker strength grades.

If this surprises you, then you should have seen the managers when they shut down the Siemens production line !

 

[Wobbly]

Clean the threads thoroughly and reassemble with blue LocTite.  Problem solved.

While thread lockers certainly aren't "fool proof" there are several application tips that you can use to increase your "batting average".

• You've got to remove ALL the oil and grease from BOTH threads. The thorough cleaning must be done on both male and female mating threads.

• This calls for a highly astringent thinner like lacquer thinner, spray carb cleaner, spray brake cleaner, etc. Some things like rubbing alcohol are not astringent enough and may take several repeated applications. Others, like lighter fluid, seem to have an oil base that leaves as much oil as it removes.

• Use of compressed air to blow both parts clean and dry really speeds up the process. Otherwise you are far better off to allow the thinner to dry (evaporate) over-night in a warm place before assembly. Assembly too quickly leaves thinner in the threads, which simply thins out the thread locker.

• One (hopefully both) of the parts should have exposed steel, brass or aluminum. LocTite is activated by metal ions in the absence of air. (If your LocTite tip keeps clogging, then stop touching the tip to the metal screw and stand the tube upright after use.)

• Tightening the fastener pair also seems to help. Figure out a way to apply some torque to the screw and your thread locker will work even better.

Hope this helps.

[dwhitehorne]

Clean the threads thoroughly and reassemble with blue LocTite.  Problem solved.

• One (hopefully both) of the parts should have exposed steel or aluminum. LocTite is activated by metal ions in the absence of air. (If your LocTite tip keeps clogging, then stop touching the tip to the metal screw and stand the tube upright after use.)

That’s some interesting info I’ve never heard before. So me sticking a small nail in the whole before screwing the cap on has been making thing worse all these years. David

[Wobbly]

That’s some interesting info I’ve never heard before. So me sticking a small nail in the whole before screwing the cap on has been making thing worse all these years.

Yes. If you'll stand the bottle or tube straight up after use, then the best solution for storage on your work bench is to NOT install the cap. The cap, generally being hard dense plastic, also keeps the LocTite from breathing. Leaving the container cap-less and exposed to open air slows the hardening process.

• One might ask, why doesn't it harden inside the containers ? Because the containers themselves have micro-pores that allow oxygen in. IME, LocTite really doesn't go "bad". I've had 242 Blue that was 15 years old that still was useful. But when it gets that old the container starts to sweat (through those same pores) and the exterior becomes a gooey mess that's not fun to handle or work with.

• If you want a REALLY good deal on LocTite, then go on Ebay and buy some deeply discounted "expired" product. Distributors and big companies have to sell off all their stocks due to ISO 9000 date requirements. But LocTite remains a viable thread locker for many, many years afterwards.

• One further note... Use of LocTite thread lockers near polycarbonate plastics is a No-No. It leads to "crazing" of the plastics and sometimes failure. Use thread lockers only on metal-to-metal screw/nut applications. You can Google "LocTite polycarbonate crazing" for more. This link is typical...
http://www.mdsr.ecri.org/summary/detail.aspx?doc_id=8087

All the best.

[Winkel]

That’s some interesting info I’ve never heard before. So me sticking a small nail in the whole before screwing the cap on has been making thing worse all these years.

Yes. If you'll stand the bottle or tube straight up after use, then the best solution for storage on your work bench is to NOT install the cap. The cap, generally being hard dense plastic, also keeps the LocTite from breathing. Leaving the container cap-less and exposed to open air slows the hardening process.

• One might ask, why doesn't it harden inside the containers ? Because the containers themselves have micro-pores that allow oxygen in. IME, LocTite really doesn't go "bad". I've had 242 Blue that was 15 years old that still was useful. But when it gets that old the container starts to sweat (through those same pores) and the exterior becomes a gooey mess that's not fun to handle or work with.

• If you want a REALLY good deal on LocTite, then go on Ebay and buy some deeply discounted "expired" product. Distributors and big companies have to sell off all their stocks due to ISO 9000 date requirements. But LocTite remains a viable thread locker for many, many years afterwards.

• One further note... Use of LocTite thread lockers near polycabonate plastics is a No-No. It leads to "crazing" of the plastics and sometimes failure. Use thread lockers only on metal-to-metal screw/nut applications. You can Google "LocTite polycarbonate crazing" for more. This link is typical...
http://www.mdsr.ecri.org/summary/detail.aspx?doc_id=8087

All the best.

Just a quick note of clarification, I think you meant polycarbonate, generally sold under the trade name of Lexan.