The Original CZ Forum
GENERAL => Ammunition, questions, and handloading techniques => Topic started by: critter99 on July 15, 2019, 07:56:18 AM
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New to reloading. Starting with pistol cartridges so i need a scale that has resolution and accuracy at the lower end of range.
Bought a Lee classic turret press to learn on with a Lee Drum Powder drop
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You can't go wrong with an RCBS 505, a Lyman D5, or and Ohaus 5-0-5. All made by Ohaus. I'd stay away from the cheap electronic scales. They can be great, or junk.
Search powder scales on ebay.
Get a set of small check weights to verify your scale.
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Get a set of small check weights to verify your scale.
X2
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https://www.dillonprecision.com/dillon-s-eliminator-scale_8_7_25215.html
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Get a set of small check weights to verify your scale.
X2
all or the above
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The Ohaus 5-0-5 is a very nice scale
But if you can find an Ohaus made (RCBS) 10-10, then you're talkin'
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Thinking of replacing my old Lyman with a Redding #2. Believe made in USA and has markings at dial which gives over under readings. Most scales have had weight removed to save money and a complaint is the scales move. Loaders have added weight to bottom and set scales on sand paper. A calibrated weight is a very good thing to have even if I did not have one for the Lyman. Reviews of electronic scales is below that of mechanical.
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I have a Redding #2. They are made in the USA. I have owned RCBS mechanical scales also. The Redding I own now and RCBS I have owned in the past are very accurate and reliable.
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https://www.dillonprecision.com/dillon-s-eliminator-scale_8_7_25215.html
The Dillon Eliminator is exactly the same as the 5-0-5 series from Ohaus and RCBS. RCBS no longer sells that scale, so if you want a new one, then you need to go to Dillon.
One of the features that makes this entire series from Ohaus a top tier scale is that the beam is calibrated in units of "10".
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aVEXAkYBg2UqXp93j97XO8bWYXflYrL3QTP-WnIyHxRlOAxnOJGxHTQgwU3dLmI_IUZ4sQkIdKL92ul47df412dXT4C0FKx1gIBR1p2tCnOs_-4hU6i30CAtNK7hvbn0-e37h5SgilWqCkqFj9P7WbePmABii3jFDTZFdn9Rd5yontsKdoJQVSKf2VXe98_cbREEM0gxC4qu81EU2G4tpcPXHAIw5LpfXleR409whIMVN8FLKd--8csGxaaQKLWSIj38z379YMQc2aTp-hwQYROjnF8mBYZnD4pXY6Z4KGoD9fn-4qes73cv5PzplAMXWkMSaRwWGb4Y3m2Q4Be_qxMEIjBp0BzaTUjw5OOq6IgwYpe-LSRB3OaQXYZSRFkHv3mYKuOG26tGzWjncN-lUh_x2L117m2LxM_9sGV_RghfOr-PlVAuk2lcKKHgGM8M8KzlIOitIifq0fx0LX2TbaK0huK0bec5xl0Am9EncNaW-_004oIyERpXT6b5oBcxmMglBYZVyz8LUYNM9Aatg20z_pG0wthbkU7FK_O3emf443_VkiWmFMfD5I2gvqfHHFNs3fOBXmnfwzP0xFmUjoerRLaznhOmHlm9dOEupwhx7NZ_ZJHkuNiP9RGfWco3RWZM5gSvcnH2jniYH0-MbIpGvV1aH60=w640-h257-no)
The Redding is a nice scale, but it's beam is calibrated in "5". This means if the poise is set on "2" you need to look very carefully to determine if it's weighing "2" or "7".
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HuzLikmYmA0dCBwhKkYNUA74eFqx4Tee92zMfmC_zIAobU2jJXwRZh0OyL8DcxjFf3OLYjSXK7WwmnxxaVB4K_2PNT9IuPFlmSDvdVi0070R7xQu_5fUBNbKduZ-zzORaAsFJQmw3jX7K6bKrYO0yqp0M1O6ABmsBImotvGyrDBzqDJqh8B7XXnw1UTd6-tnqCbkvf1uduRQCs5EqJUFWVMRM1-F1BgcrUSJgW7gj_5Igc4_B4u---T8WkxdG4n_LAIdZxiN0DGBtPV_ROeGeGpde4MXyon6rPN1BPGyEMm8KDpu7cFzQjI912_XgCQ9XxBDc5bm0y8HSr-WWtYtMfsFuSvqcDfk_NF1x5d5RZfls88fSU65qJQJQsAsDj72jJ2376RuETnqM9oBK-XnFah6koLWSB5YD2w7Ay6RnxZ6ggjbnwg7nzp0_6o9qYc07h6HCWC9hLMlIczOJkbFK-7IrF3fzl0PngDlHXnTIqahe77eCpj5bV6g3d3n1SIMt9tTVqOpzf4kXZtGEGFAX8uWLsXNECksPzQC-ZNBY2wC_F48YnfKcFENnPOTW4NVgC5c8MCnHkXdFHY-1npUmOogD_Ca0nqELHd2WYOud0XCxOO3xtbrYdcfquy2c0Z8sCjGZLUW7pdbQ87MfqBPEmTfdvHcX44=w942-h567-no)
To me that's simply an invitation to error. I consider myself human, therefore I don't need any additional help making mistakes. ;D
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New to reloading. Starting with pistol cartridges so i need a scale that has resolution and accuracy at the lower end of range.
Bought a Lee classic turret press to learn on with a Lee Drum Powder drop
I got the RCBS 10-10. iirc, it will go up to 1010 g. Its not that i will be using that much everyday, but its nice to have when you need it. so consider what you may want to reload/load in the future and get according to that.
Also, i would look for a scale with magnetic dampening.
there are also digital pan type scales too.
if your local police department sells/auctions off some confiscated items, you maybe able to find something there. At one time with all of the druggies out there, they would get some type of scale on the raids. And some of them were really nice and expensive too. But i would make sure it in grains or is changeable. I wouldnt do any math to change since that will add one possible layer of error.
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Have a couple of the cheap China electronics that work great and i verify with bullets i know the weight of.
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I use a Lee with good luck. But as mentioned get the weights to verify
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Here's my thinking on digital scales...
• They are faster, but let's consider how they are used. You decide to reload 200 rounds. You use the scale to setup the powder measure. Then you reload your 200 rounds. So the "faster" scale has saved you 2 minutes, but the reloading took 20-40 times that amount of time. So if you look at your total reloading session length, there's really no appreciable difference.
• They are great, but when they start to wander they give no outward indications. That's why you need a session with the check weights before starting.
• They are affected (or should we say afflicted) by everything you can't see.... drafts, magnetic fields, power fluctuations, etc which makes it hard to prevent trouble.
Don't get me wrong... I think everyone should own a digital scale. I simply think it should be their second or backup unit. If you find a bullet on the floor and you want to quickly see which box it should go back into, then a digital is nice to have.
;)
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I bought a Lyman M5 made by Ohaus on ebay several years ago for a cheap price to go with my Lee scale that came with my starter kit. I recently bought a RCBS Chargemaster Lite. So far I really like it. Of course check weights are a must.
(https://i.imgur.com/4Vc63Bp.jpg)
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Here's my thinking on digital scales...
• They are faster, but let's consider how they are used. You decide to reload 200 rounds. You use the scale to setup the powder measure. Then you reload your 200 rounds. So the "faster" scale has saved you 2 minutes, but the reloading took 20-40 times that amount of time. So if you look at your total reloading session length, there's really no appreciable difference.
I use them for setup but mostly for very accurate individual rifle cartridge reloading where they save a lot of time.
• They are great, but when they start to wander they give no outward indications. That's why you need a session with the check weights before starting.
I check them every 25 rounds for the rifle loads and b4 set up of powder dispenser.
• They are affected (or should we say afflicted) by everything you can't see.... drafts, magnetic fields, power fluctuations, etc which makes it hard to prevent trouble.
Have never had a wandering problem in the 8 years I have used the digitals.
Don't get me wrong... I think everyone should own a digital scale. I simply think it should be their second or backup unit. If you find a bullet on the floor and you want to quickly see which box it should go back into, then a digital is nice to have.
;)
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Question on ebay purchase of a scale
Are used scales usually in good working order? I mean can they be thrown off somehow?
I get being tossed around, bent, etc and all - but on a mechanical scale is there something I should look out for besides the obvious visual flaws when buying a used mechanical scale?
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I guess it's possible that the faceplates with the numbers on them could possibly become detached and then reattached in the wrong spot. You might now be able to tell from photos if it's a bit out. The beam pivot point would be a key area to check - nice clean sharp wedge on the beam and similar on the V notch in the base.
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• The Ohaus scales are sometimes missing the pan, which costs about $18 + shipping to replace.
• If you seriously drop or crush one, the beams are cast aluminum and can easily bend and/or break.
• Sometimes people take apart the hanger which uses #9 shot to 'zero' the scale. If you lose some of the lead shot (which is easily replaced) then it won't zero again.
• Mostly the knives get rusty from being in long term storage. Just clean them up with a sharpening stone and apply waxy case lube to ward away further humidity.
• Rarely some fool will oil the knives and that gets oxidized and gummy. A cotton swab and alcohol on the gem stones fixes that.
• The magnetic flanges can get loose, but you can epoxy or LocTite those back onto the beam.
The main thing is to make sure all the pieces are there, that the beams are straight, and that the decals with the numbers aren't missing or illegible. Everything else is repairable.
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Any of the beam scales; RCBS and others are good. I also double check and triple check with electronic scales. I also use RCBS charge master (electronic drop system). Takes a little more time but never had an issue. Getting it right is just part of the process and part of the fun of reloading. For pistol loads, it is not for cost savings it is enjoying reloading .
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Of all the beam scales recommended here, I think the only one I haven't owned at one time or another is the Redding. If I'm wrong someone correct me, but the only company I can think of that makes it's own scale is Lee --the rest are made by O'haus and that includes the Dillon. Of all the one's I've owned the Dillon is the one I like best (the same one recommended by 2bfree). All the Redding stuff I've owned has been very high quality so I've little doubt the scale is too.
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All the Redding stuff I've owned has been very high quality so I've little doubt the scale is too.
I believe Redding only makes the base, and that Ohaus (probably) makes the beam for them. Over all, the Redding is VERY well made. I especially like their heavy base design which keeps the unit from skittering around the reloading bench surface. They probably have the heaviest base in the reloading world.
Issues with the Redding are the beam poise reads in units of "5" (discussed previously), and lack of gem stones on the pivot. This latter one is not so much an issue where humidity is low, but in high humidity areas the "knives" may suffer low level galvanic corrosion... leading to loss of accuracy.