The Original CZ Forum
GENERAL => Ammunition, questions, and handloading techniques => Topic started by: ndfan6466 on May 03, 2020, 09:50:00 PM
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Was hoping someone could give me some insight on remanufactured ammo. I've never purchased nor used REM ammo before untill now. I ordered some, it arrived and wanted to make sure it was to spec. It's 9mm ammo. When counting the rounds to make sure order was correct (which it wasnt) couple rounds didnt sit flat. It was if the primer wasnt set right. Iam only assuming because iam basing this off of my only experience with handling new factory ammo.
Questions are
1. How do I check to make sure bullet is set right?
2. How do I check primer is set right?
Thank you in advance for the guidance
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The primer should be below the base of the case. It should not be 'proud'. Those rounds may take two strikes to go off.
To check on the bullets, you'll need a set of calipers to check for consistent OAL. You can also roll the rounds on a table to check that the projectiles were inserted straight.
You should also check these cartridges in your barrel to make sure the OAL works in your gun. A cartridge should drop in, spin freely, and drop back out from it's own weight.
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Painter nailed it.
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Please share your results on above. Who manufactured this ammo? Curious.
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The primer should be below the base of the case. It should not be 'proud'. Those rounds may take two strikes to go off.
To check on the bullets, you'll need a set of calipers to check for consistent OAL. You can also roll the rounds on a table to check that the projectiles were inserted straight.
You should also check these cartridges in your barrel to make sure the OAL works in your gun. A cartridge should drop in, spin freely, and drop back out from it's own weight.
So what's the OAL for a 9mm round. I can check with my set of calipers. With rolling them on a table top iam assuming they should straight and not in a circle?
The company that I got ammo from is Maine Ammo Company. Never used them before so new to me. I dont have anything negative to say about the company nor would I slander a company. Unless they truly deserve it. I have not been able to fire the ammo yet so can not give a range report.
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The primer should be below the base of the case. It should not be 'proud'. Those rounds may take two strikes to go off.
To check on the bullets, you'll need a set of calipers to check for consistent OAL. You can also roll the rounds on a table to check that the projectiles were inserted straight.
You should also check these cartridges in your barrel to make sure the OAL works in your gun. A cartridge should drop in, spin freely, and drop back out from it's own weight.
So what's the OAL for a 9mm round. I can check with my set of calipers. With rolling them on a table top iam assuming they should straight and not in a circle?
The company that I got ammo from is Maine Ammo Company. Never used them before so new to me. I dont have anything negative to say about the company nor would I slander a company. Unless they truly deserve it. I have not been able to fire the ammo yet so can not give a range report.
Rolling ANY cartridge on the table will tell you nothing. Even if the cartridge was perfectly straight and true it would roll in a circle simply because of one end being the bullet end is heavier. OAL can vary by bullet type but as I recall the max OAL for a 9mm is 1.169. The best thing to do is the plunk test that Painter suggested and make sure they will chamber in your barrel and check the OAL with your caliper and post the measurement. By the way what weight is the bullet in this ammo?
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So what's the OAL for a 9mm round. I can check with my set of calipers. With rolling them on a table top i am assuming they should straight and not in a circle?
There is NOT one single or optimal OAL for any auto pistol cartridge. There is a range of lengths. It's the cartridge-to-barrel fit that is important. Go back to the prior posts in this thread and read them again. Your tests are:
• Does the round head space and spin in your gun's clean chamber ? (Barrel removed from the gun.)
• Does it drop in and out of the clean chamber using only its own weight ?
• Are there minimal variations (under ~0.006") in OAL over the entire lot of ammo ?
Slowly rolling on the table top is a quick check for bullet-to-case concentricity.
The 9x19 Luger round has a slight taper to the brass case. Therefore the round will naturally follow an arc as it rolls on a smooth countertop.
The company that I got ammo from is Maine Ammo Company. Never used them before so new to me. I have not been able to fire the ammo yet so can not give a range report.
You being in SC, I'd think your shipping costs would be lower ordering from Atlanta Arms or Georgia Arms. But that's just my casual observer comment.
;)
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The grain weight is 115 for the ammo in question..
I'll post the caliper reading after I get back from physical therapy this morning...
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Hmm. Never heard of the two ammo manufacturers that you listed. I'll have to look them up. Thank you sir.
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I'll post the caliper reading after I get back from physical therapy this morning...
Friend, we don't need no stinkin' OAL reading !!
Are you even reading the answers you're getting ?
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Yes Sir, I am reading EVERY single post..
A member asked me to post what the OAL was. I understood so I said I would. I also understand what you said about barrel fit...
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My apologies. You were.
The fact remains, the OAL number means absolutely nothing on its own. The test is "does it fit your chamber ? "
99% of the information being offered here (including vendors) is in the Stickies at the top of the forum.
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My apologies. You were.
The fact remains, the OAL number means absolutely nothing on its own. The test is "does it fit your chamber ? "
Sounds perfect. And no harm no foul sir. Iam just very thankful that you all are willing to help me understand how to check these.
As far a primer set depth is there anything to be cautious about? I know that someone said that it could take a dbl strike to set off the primer. That to me sounds like a primer set to deep? What about a primer set to proud?
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As far a primer set depth is there anything to be cautious about? I know that someone said that it could take a dbl strike to set off the primer. That to me sounds like a primer set to deep? What about a primer set to proud?
The primer is not "armed" until it's seated. So the first strike generally finishes the seating operation, the second sets it off. This "second strike" capability is why you bought a hammer gun and not a striker gun.
[ Be aware that any round may not fire instantly. You might also have a "hang fire", or highly delayed ignition. So always continue to point the gun in a safe direction. If you do have a striker gun, the only recourse is to eject the round, kick it way off to the side for several minutes, then reload it into the mag. In a hammer gun one of the safety aspects is that any "dud" round remains in the chamber to get the "second strike". ]
If the primer is too high (say ~0.010" +), then there is always the chance of a "slam fire" where the breech face sets off the primer, not the firing pin. In these instances, the side of the case may blow out, with a shower of hot gas and brass bits blasting out of the ejection port. Or, if present in revolver ammo, the cylinder may simply refuse to rotate.
You cannot set the primer too deeply. The primer pocket dimensions define the seating depth.
Hope this helps.
PS. Good luck with your PT.
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That's perfect and said and explained clearly. Thank you so very much.
I've been shooting for years civilian side and currently in the military. I am ashamed that I truly never took the time to 100% completely study ammo making/setting/etc. Truly embarrassing... So again thank you so much for setting me straight...I take shooting seriously and safety is my biggest thing.
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1. One of the "facts of life" when shooting someone else's ammo (or even goodly quantities of factory ammo) is that you sincerely need to review....
• Squib rounds
• Second strike / high primer rounds
• Slam fire rounds
• Hang fire rounds
That's roughly the order of occurrence too.
You don't need to check for this with military ammo because it goes through a hundred more tests and checks that civilian ammo doesn't. So complacency and simply 'not knowing' are your worst enemies.
2. Part of that personal education is to be aware that CZ pistols have extremely short freebore chambers. As such, you need to be very skeptical of any new-to-you ammo. Always remove the barrel from the gun and do the drop-in, spin freely, and drop-out tests before you buy (if possible). This is why we suggest you take your naked barrel with you to Walmart or your LGS when ammo shopping locally. The simple truth is: Not all ammo offered for sale will safely fit the CZ chamber.
When ammo is too long for the CZ chamber, then the gun may be allowed to fire Out Of Battery (OOB), that is... with the chamber only partially closed. That may lead to case wall blow out, and the ensuing shower of hot gas and brass bits. Those occurrences will typically end the life of a polymer gun... and result in more trips to PT. :P
(https://i.imgur.com/KLC6RYi.jpg)
;)
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That's an excellent write up. Thank you for that.
Military definitely hasn't helped with my complacency. Just jam mags and go back to clearing rooms and firing. Allowed to cross over into my civilian life. Embarrassing, so thanks for giving me a wake up call in this.
Just being ignorant and assuming that rounds from major manufacturers are "plug-in-play". Now I do know from time to time even major manufacturers ammo can be out of spec. That i am fully aware of...
REM ammo has always put me on edge but with shortage of ammo around the country its forced my hand to buy it so I can keep my skills up...
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Let me get my popcorn this is going to be a good one.
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Let me get my popcorn this is going to be a good one.
LMAO! let's pray it's a boring flick and you walk out disappointed
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Let me get my popcorn this is going to be a good one.
There's no gratuitous sex, if that's what you're waiting on. ;D
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Just being ignorant and assuming that rounds from major manufacturers are "plug-in-play". Now I do know from time to time even major manufacturers ammo can be out of spec. That i am fully aware of...
Lucky for you, ignorance (like epoxy) can be cured. ;D
Just read my magnum opus HERE (https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=103620.msg803207#msg803207), especially the introductory Background section. You'll be up to full speed in no time and able to leap tall meplats in a single bound.
But wait that's not all !! When you pass the classroom portion and send in your 2 "specially marked" box tops, you'll also receive a diploma as a Certified Ammo Snob which will allow you to laugh out loud at people buying ammo in Walmart.
Special operators are standing by now, so get your diploma today !
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Now that was some serious data that you wrote up and very well explained. Even I understood it. Lots of nomenclature that i didnt even know that a single round had.
Definitely adding that page to my favorites so I can reference it for whatever reason. I dont think I'll personally ever get into reloading my own ammo but still very very helpful..thank you.
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Okay, so far I tested 100 rds out of 250 and all slide into the barrel and out of the barrel just fine. They all were flush as well when seated.
The only concern i have is that a few so far when set upright the round would rock unlike the others. The round was put on a granite slab that I know is certified flat.
Forgot how to attach pictures otherwise I'd post pics of what I mean..
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Okay figured out pics..heres an illustration of what I mean by "rocking"
https://imgur.com/1gzXdYl
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The primers on the rounds that are rocking are 'proud'.
Not ideal, but not a deal killer, either.
They'll likely take a second strike to fire.
Sort them out and shoot them all at the same time, or leave them in the mix and check your flinch. :D
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Okay, so far I tested 100 rds out of 250 and all slide into the barrel and out of the barrel just fine. They all were flush as well when seated.
But do they spin when head spaced (all the way into the chamber) ?
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Okay, so far I tested 100 rds out of 250 and all slide into the barrel and out of the barrel just fine. They all were flush as well when seated.
But do they spin when head spaced (all the way into the chamber) ?
Yes sir. Dropped in smoothly, flush and spin
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Yes sir. Dropped in smoothly, flush and spin
Then those few high primers are your only concern.... if the PF is to your liking.
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PF??
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Power Factor
I combination of bullet weight and speed.
A 115 gr bullet traveling at 850 fps will have less PF then a 115 gr going 1000 fps.
Bullet weight X velocity...then divided by 1000 equals PF
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That's a perfect explanation of PF.
What I'm trying (badly) to say is, if they have enough power to operate your slide, strike close to point of aim, don't give you blisters... and make you happy... then they're good to shoot.
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I've ordered from freedom munitions several years back. It was 308 ammo and i wasn't impressed. For the cost you might as well just get factory new ammo or load your own. Their pistol ammo shot decent but it was very dirty.