Anyone Rit Dye a P-09 Urban Gray?

[DOC 1500]

Also,
There are plenty of options other than Cerakote. For roughly the same price as well.

PVD in different colors, hard chrome etc.

ZEV has a PVD in Titanium which is cool.

Primary machine did my po9 slide in cerakote titanium, the pistol has been in and out of the holster drawing and shooting a couple hundred times and barely shows any wear whatsoever.
Cerakote is a way better application.

[Underwhere]

Also,
There are plenty of options other than Cerakote. For roughly the same price as well.

PVD in different colors, hard chrome etc.

ZEV has a PVD in Titanium which is cool.

Primary machine did my po9 slide in cerakote titanium, the pistol has been in and out of the holster drawing and shooting a couple hundred times and barely shows any wear whatsoever.
Cerakote is a way better application.

My preference is PVD of some sort.

I Cerakote myself. Not recently but several guns on the past. Very nice finish with many color options. Color palette is where cerakote wins.

However I prefer the thinner PVD as I believe it wears better. Both wear just fine though.

I also have some hard chrome but have not put them through any real use so I can't comment.

[briang2ad]

Of course the thread is about RIT dye, not Cerakote. 

I assume that the dye will NOT wear at all.  I know Cerkote will wear eventually, and dye is DIY and a fraction of the cost.  Anyone confirm that the dye penetrates enough even with a short dye period?

What colors are obtainable with UG or OD?  (I like blue/gray Glock).

Back to the wood block - so the plastic may bend INWARD, not expand?  Interesting. 

Thanks. 

[Underwhere]

Of course the thread is about RIT dye, not Cerakote. 

I assume that the dye will NOT wear at all.  I know Cerkote will wear eventually, and dye is DIY and a fraction of the cost.  Anyone confirm that the dye penetrates enough even with a short dye period?

What colors are obtainable with UG or OD?  (I like blue/gray Glock).

Back to the wood block - so the plastic may bend INWARD, not expand?  Interesting. 

Thanks.

The dye does impregnate into the plastic and goes beneath the surface. I have tested this with other plastics and scraped away the surface leaving a dyed plastic underneath...so very durable.

The colors - it's a bit of an experiment and you'll have to go back to your elementary school days and revisit the color wheel. Start with the lightest color plastic possible...which is UG.
If you want a blue-ish that is doable. So is gray.

I like to test on spare backstraps and things like that.

On the P09 and P07 the plastic happened to bend inwards for some reason. It surprised me as well. It wasn't too bad. You could remedy by sanding a little.

It's interesting to note that no other frame from any other manufacturer I've worked on has ever disformed. Only The P09 and P07.

[Underwhere]

Here are some notes from some "sand" colored PMAGS I did a while back.

Wolf Gray - Use Pearl Gray and maybe a drop of black.
A grayish black - Brown and Black

Going from "Sand" to FDE - (6 teaspoons of tan, 1 teaspoon of pearl gray, 1 teaspoon of dark brown in 1-1.5 quarts of water for 4-6 minutes)

If you are doing multiple parts try and get a timer going and dip these parts in for the same amount of time. Note that you should be washing these parts off in cold water immediately after removing from the liquid. The color changes slightly

Hopefully that gives you a sense of things are like. Very experimental.

In general the process:
1. Heat the water to roughly 170 degrees. A little less is ok but it affects absorbtion
2. Add dye and stir
3. You can pre-heat parts if you want. I didn't. Drop them into the water (suspended with string or wire if possible). Time it so you know how long they have been in there.
4. Pull out periodically and check to see if it's the designed color. Know that once washed and dried that the color may be slightly different.

Notes - this dye really does not come off anything so be careful when pouring it. Don't get it on countertops, floors etc.

[Claymore504]

I love the UG color frames, so I would not change it!

[Claymore504]

You could always get the slide nitrided, it would look stock, and probably would'nt cost that much more than cerekote, I'm having the barrel, slide stop, of my recently purchased P07, nitrided as CZ leaves the chamber, and feed ramp in the white. Myself, I believe that a carry gun ought to be as rust resistant as possible, so those parts are getting nitrided..
www.blacknitride.com

I'd just leave the frame as is, and just get the slide done..

I am pretty sure the barrels on the P07 and P09 are nitrided already. I contacted CZ about this on those models and they confirmed that they are nitrided.