Author Topic: Old stock Treasure found! NEA Gen II Railed Handguards  (Read 7209 times)

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Offline josey88

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Re: Old stock Treasure found! NEA Gen II Railed Handguards
« Reply #15 on: November 11, 2013, 11:22:40 AM »
Don`t do anything , you will ruin it .
I too have the  Troy upper and lower kit . It fits correctly  , but it takes a bit of patience to position  the pin exactly on the correct angle and it will go in fine . Do not try to force the pin thru ... the pin`s size is very exact to the receiver hole and has to be in the exact correct angle to be inserted (that is the problem). Also the Troy piece is made of aluminum  so if you force the pin you will deform it .  It seems to me that Troy cut have had build the bleep piece with a little less exactitude so it would have some play on it and be a lot easier to put in ...!!!
The pin will get out easily , no problem there , but to get it in is kind of tricky . I studied the whole situation and got to the conclusion that removing material would ruin the part , so I just take it easy and I try it 2 or 3 times patiently until I get it right and I push it with the hand ... I recommend you do the same .   
« Last Edit: November 11, 2013, 11:40:08 AM by josey88 »

Offline Denzien

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Re: Old stock Treasure found! NEA Gen II Railed Handguards
« Reply #16 on: November 11, 2013, 05:09:04 PM »
Sounds like when I rebuilt a Getrag transmission from an old Peugeot when I was in High School...the valves in the valve body had such tight tolerances, it took at least 10 minutes to find the exact correct place to get these things back in.

Offline RSR

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Re: Old stock Treasure found! NEA Gen II Railed Handguards
« Reply #17 on: November 12, 2013, 03:56:05 AM »
How'd you get the rail seated so that you can enter the pin?

Sorry if not clear -- don't think the pin alignment will be a problem.  It looks to match.

The issue appears to be the handguard length and getting rail seated with gouging or warping it...  Is there an easy way to adjust/loosen/remove the front handguard holder?  It looked to me like a gas block removal was required...

If I don't touch anything on the front, approx 1/8" like this needs removed from the rear.  The start of the red on the curve at is roughly where the rail's hitting the receiver and where if I removed material I think I'd need to (and sorry this is a rough web image marked up -- the rifle and rails are in the safe and don't want to wake the the wife to take a quick actual pic -- happy to in the next day or two though).


Don't want to McGuyver and ruin the rails; that's why I'm asking -- most expensive rails I've ever purchased, but I really like this gun, so...

Look forward to advice on doing it proper.  Thanks again!
« Last Edit: November 12, 2013, 03:59:35 AM by RSR »

Offline josey88

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Re: Old stock Treasure found! NEA Gen II Railed Handguards
« Reply #18 on: November 12, 2013, 10:42:17 AM »
I must apologize ... My previous post was referring to the upper part of the Troy Kit on my D-Technik 58, not for the lower part . I have had no trouble at all installing the lower part  . Maybe the VZ-2008s have different receiver specs somehow... ?
I  was even able to install the original factory pin with the Troy handguard . The one that comes with the handguard is more difficult to install and if it is installed , it will be even more difficult to take out if it the need  arises , so I tried the original pin and it fits perfectly . I shot 119 rds with it , and the pin is still  perfectly seated with no movement or sliding ... nothing  , so , as long as it doesn`t move , I will not touch it . If it gets loose some day (?) then  I will replace it with the Troy pin .
I cannot give you advice on that problem , since I had no trouble with my lower handguard 


« Last Edit: November 12, 2013, 12:00:29 PM by josey88 »

Offline RSR

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Re: Old stock Treasure found! NEA Gen II Railed Handguards
« Reply #19 on: February 21, 2014, 05:58:10 PM »
Was going through old posts and realize I never followed up.  Here's what I did.

1. I used a file to remove 1/16" or so from the front lip of the lower rail (probably could have gone to 1/8" but I got tired of filing).  2. Added some grease to the rear rounded edges where the lower back portion of the rail contacts the receiver.
3. Used a hammer on the rear lip (the part that the pin goes through) to to tap the lower rail straight forward while applying gentle up pressure with my hands.  After a few taps, it started to seat, and then I tapped from the bottom to move it up. 

Tight fit.  Works great.  To remove, I remove the top rail and then use a hammer to tap on its top edge, which knocks it out.