Anybody using heavier recoil Wolff springs?

[Leshka71]

I was wondering if anybody is using heavier recoil spring, for what reason and what is the outcome.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

What gun? I use the stock recoil springs in all my CZ's and order factory replacements in the same rate. Ejection is as it should be with my reloads and I see no good reason to adjust the spring rate in that area.

[Leshka71]

In PCR. I practice with 9mm 124 gr NATO and for HD & CCW I use 147 gr. +P bonded HP ammo. Both are hotter than normal.

[M1A4ME]

I have not used anything (so far) other than factory springs.

What I've always read, here, is that CZ factory springs are pretty heavy springs.  The reason given is that European ammo is usually "hotter" than much of the 9MM ammo sold in the US.

Many people buy "lighter" recoil springs for their CZ's as they feel the factory springs are unnecessarily heavy.

I guess, the last question would be, what does the owner's manual say about +P ammo for the PCR?

I'm just now beginning an exploration into possible +P 9MM ammo.  I recently bought a pistol (not CZ) that seems to shoot a certain NATO load better than anything else.  The advertised factory load that pistol shoots well is a fast 124 grain load.  In searching through the reloading data on the powder manufacturers' web sites it appears the likelihood of matching the velocity of that load is most likely to be found in the +P load range.  Oh well.  Part of reloading is fun.

I typed in that example because the NATO load made by Winchester appears to be a +P load.  I'll bet a lot of the modern pistols in use by the police/military in Europe will handle NATO ammo just fine. 

The CZ pistols are fired using S&B ammo at the factory (function testing, not sure how important group size is but a representation of the target will be in the box with the new pistol).  The 124 grain S&B loads show a velocity that agrees with the Winchester NATO 9MM loads I've bought/shot just recently.  Can't speak for the chamber pressure of the S&B loads.

Most people will replace their recoil springs after a certain round count.

[Leshka71]

The reason I?m asking is if the hammer spring is lightened for easier DA pull than the recoil spring has to be strengthened to balance the change to the hammer spring.


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[cousinmark]

I know I sound like a broken record but "why try to outthink the engineers"?. The good folks at both CZ Custom and CGW know what they're doing. If I'm correct neither include an alternate recoil spring in their kits. If there were some better option out there I'd bet they'd happily sell it to us.

[Leshka71]

I know I sound like a broken record but "why try to outthink the engineers"?. The good folks at both CZ Custom and CGW know what they're doing. If I'm correct neither include an alternate recoil spring in their kits. If there were some better option out there I'd bet they'd happily sell it to us.

You maybe right, but CGW for example sells reduced recoil springs (#15 & #18) for P-07, P-09 and P-10.


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[Epguy80]

How hot are you planning to shoot? The PCR factory spring is the same one used in the P-01. It's rated for 124gr NATO and .40 S&W (P-06 uses the same spring). The lighter 14# spring is for US factory 9mm loads. The hammer spring affects trigger pull, not recoil. If you're going to lighten the hammer spring, then you need the extended firing pin to ensure more reliable ignition of your chosen ammo.

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[Leshka71]

IMO with stiffer hammer spring slide needs more power to push the hammer back. If you you put a lighter hammer spring and use +P ammo the slide will bang the frame. So I was thinking that by increasing recoil spring weight it will balance the system.


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[Epguy80]

The hammer has absolutely nothing to do with slowing down the slide from banging into the frame. That's the job of the recoil spring. That's why the aluminum framed CZ's have polymer guide rods, to help absorb some of that force. The deformation of slide to frame contact is where the guide rod sits against the aluminum frame. It's also the theory behind the DPM recoil systems, none of them involve the hammer spring. As cousinmark said, why try to outthink the engineers? These are combat handguns designed for hard use. The lighter springs are intended for competition use.

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[Leshka71]

If that?s true why it?s easier to rack slide back with hammer down?


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[M1A4ME]

First, let me say I've not done this, just read about it - on the internet.

Many people say you can reduce the effort required to rack the slide to the rear by adding a bevel to the sharp corner at the bottom rear of the slide. The factory/sharp corner makes it harder for the slide to start moving the hammer to the rear.  Rounding off that sharp corner changes how the slide/hammer interact and that step becomes "smoother" and easier to accomplish.

I've never measured the force required to rack a slide (factory or modified).

More that I've read on the internet.

Some primers are "harder" than others.  The metal of the cup (the shiny or copper colored metal you see in the center of the cartridge base) may be a little thicker or a little harder for some brands/types.  Also harder to ignite - the reason for the extended firing pins if you want your pistol to be reliable with any brand of ammo you might want to shoot in it. 

A lot of people go to reduced power recoil springs because they believe (maybe rightly so, again, something I've read on the internet) that with the factory spring the pistol's muzzle drops lower (off the target) when the slide slams forward while chambering the next round.  That slows down their next shot while they raise the muzzle back up on the target. 

That may contribute to increase stress on the pistol's frame/slide stop, etc.  I don't know.  I just keep the factory springs in mine and so far they run everything I've shot in them.  I shoot mostly reloads in my pistols but no real "powderpuff" loads.  I try to keep even my practice ammo hitting the same point of aim as my defensive ammo.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

The hammer has absolutely nothing to do with slowing down the slide from banging into the frame. That's the job of the recoil spring. That's why the aluminum framed CZ's have polymer guide rods, to help absorb some of that force.
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 Most alloy,steel or plastic frame CZ's come with plastic guide rods as do many other brands out there. Plastic is a cost cutting measure ANY way you slice it.
I replaced all my plastic guide rods with stainless steel models and they cause no problem with wear or frame battering in any way shape or form. My PCR is approaching 15,000 rounds now and there is zero discernable wear internally.

[Navydoc7]

I run Wollfe 22lb springs in my pcr and p-06. Both threw brass to the next county before the change. At just shy of 5000 thru the pcr and over 10,000 on the p-06. Both very tame shooters and only one malfunction, a misfire on Underwood 124 +p+ in all those rounds. Fired on the the subsequent trigger pull. FWIW just my 2 cents

[Leshka71]

I run Wollfe 22lb springs in my pcr and p-06. Both threw brass to the next county before the change. At just shy of 5000 thru the pcr and over 10,000 on the p-06. Both very tame shooters and only one malfunction, a misfire on Underwood 124 +p+ in all those rounds. Fired on the the subsequent trigger pull. FWIW just my 2 cents

Was it really hard to put spring in first time? How?s recoil? Are you using original plastic guide rod?


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