My 1994 Semi-compact restoration/chop diary - Finished

[Underwhere]

Here we go again!
I'm excited. I finally came to the decision to restore/chop my Semi-compact. I couldn't find anything else suitable on GunBroker so I'm moving forward.

I'm hoping to be as detailed as possible but this time make less mistakes. We'll see about that.

I can't help but build this gun the same way I've done my others. I'm open to suggestions! Please. I'm not creative.

The Plan for the frame and slide:
*Strip the frame -DONE
*Round the trigger guard -DONE
*Relieve the trigger guard -DONE
*Flush the slide stop lever -DONE
*Flush the guide rod -DONE
*Round the nose of the frame -DONE
*Countour the back of the gun so all surfaces mate up nicely -DONE
*flush and crown the barrel into the bushing -DONE
*Upsweep the beavertail and countour it -DONE
*Bevel the magwell -DONE
*Polish frame rails, contact points to prep for aftermarket parts -DONE
*Lightly polish the frame to bring it to a smooth surface -DONE
*Rust blue it -DONE


The plan for parts:
CGW Pro Kit with ring hammer
CGW recoil spring
CGW 10X barrel bushing
CGW EZ/D Sights
Grips - Walnut


Finished Pics:

[Underwhere]

Disassembly

Pieces on the Tupperware cover will be stripped and prepped for Bluing.

[Underwhere]

I can't help but mod so here we go.
Cutting a notch into the sear cage for the sear spring to sit for assembly and disassembly.

[Underwhere]

And more mods. This time not a gun mod. Making a handle which will allow me to hold the gun without touching it.

I used a grip screw welded to a shaft and a piece of steel. This fits in my boiling pot so I don't need to remove it when boiling.

[Underwhere]

Stripping
And here it is going into stripper for a few days. The temps here are low 60's at night but during the day will get up to the 80's so I'm hopeful the solution is effective.

I have yet to order up the CGW parts but will need to remove the Bluing from the hammer and bushing so they all can match.

[viking499]

Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.

[Underwhere]

Removal from Stripping

Workday #2


Wow I forgot how nasty this stuff is.

The stripper turned into a darker shade of orange after 2 days.

And opening up the top it literally makes your eyes water. This is some really potent stuff.

I threw on some nitrile gloves and it ate through it in literally 20 to 30 seconds.

I prepared a small water bath and even fresh gloves in the contaminated water dissolved in 20 to 30 seconds.

If you are planning on doing this at home one day please be careful.

It was very tricky getting stuff out and cleaning it off. I had to be very careful not to let this stuff splatter or get on my face or eyes (safety glasses necessary)

Most of the epoxy coating is off now. A little bit remains on the magwell and on the rib of the slide.

I actually don't think I needed to do the controls. That may have been a waste but oh well.

[M1A4ME]

I bought some of the aircraft paint stripper in the spray cans several years ago.  I was stripping some Z28 rims some body had painted white (the whole rim).  I sprayed it on and let it sit, then got the hose/nozzle and started spraying it off.  Next thing I know it feels like I'm getting stung by yellow jackets.  I look down, not a bee in sight.  I rubbed my shins and went back to spraying the rims.  Bam!  More multiple bee stings all over my shins.  Then it hit me it was the stripper/paint splashing off the rims and back onto my legs. 

Like you said.  Potent stuff.

And even the spray on stripper I used for old GI wood stocks will eat up the latex rubber gloves in a hurry.  Special gloves are needed for special stuff.

[Tok36]

Here we go again! I am excited too! Thank you for sharing your project with us. Interesting stuff.

On another note, i just pictured M1A4ME with invisible bees attacking his shins. 

Today is shaping up pretty well so far.

[Underwhere]

Cleaning off the remaining epoxy. Surprise hole

Workday #3

I used a stainless steel wheel (or several different types) on a dremel to tackle the nooks and crannies as well as the rib on the slide.

Looks decent now.

There were spots of epoxy left over here and there and I had a heck of a time removing it with the wire wheel. Then it occurred to me just to use 220 grit and it took mere seconds.

Inside the mag area was still tough. I spent some time on that both with 220 then with the wire wheel. I think I'm OK now.

In the end I'm going to go over everything with 220 and then with 320 anyway.

Then I dropped it into Vaporust.

But there was a surprise that CZ gave to me. In the rear dovetail I noticed some epoxy that wouldn't come off. I held it up to the light and realized it's actually a hole and you can see the hammer pocket. Ha!

Friday gun? Maybe they milled out the dovetail just a hair too close.

[JD Miller]

Looks like Fun ......

I like the Rust Blue Idea.... Which rust blue solution are you gonna use?


.

[Underwhere]

I had issues with Mark Lee express blue but I think that was all me. I may do it again.

The Laurel Mountain I pitted the frame but that was all me as well.

The express blue has less chance of me pitting the frame so I may go that route. This time I'm going to stop the slide early. I believe the slide darkens more than the frame.

[Underwhere]

The evaporust wasn't doing much after a few hours so I replaced with fresh solution. Much more yellow than orange.

I also messed around with my grasping tool... And decided I'd evaporust and blue it too. Why not.

[M1A4ME]

I guess holes/bubbles are part of the casting process.

I removed a bit of metal from the bottom of the frame on my Pre B CZ85.  I ran into what looked like rusty cracks/crevices in a spot or two.  Looked like I was on the edge of a void/bubble or had sanded right through it to the upper edges.

[Underwhere]

I guess holes/bubbles are part of the casting process.

I removed a bit of metal from the bottom of the frame on my Pre B CZ85.  I ran into what looked like rusty cracks/crevices in a spot or two.  Looked like I was on the edge of a void/bubble or had sanded right through it to the upper edges.

You're probably right. Casting isn't perfect.

I think I've encountered a bubble every time I've taken a square trigger guard and made it round.