My 1994 Semi-compact restoration/chop diary - Finished

[Gunnerdad80]

Awesome!

[Underwhere]

Grips came today. Had to clearance the right side slightly.

Some quick glamour shots.

Still need to finalize a few things.

Loctite rear sight
Disconnector fitting
Trigger set screws
Sear safety setting
Barrel hood polishing

Then I think it'll be done.

[Gunnerdad80]

 

[Tok36]

The drop to Disco half cock issue i have seen before. It is surprising how little material requires removal to remedy this malfunction in some cases.

So that i am clear, the cause of the slide jamming up was the inside of the Disconector hook limiting the Trigger Bars downward travel? This is a new one to me, interesting stuff.

Glad that you got things worked out. The flush cut Slide Stop looks nice. Thank you for the many pics.

[Underwhere]

The drop to Disco half cock issue i have seen before. It is surprising how little material requires removal to remedy this malfunction in some cases.

So that i am clear, the cause of the slide jamming up was the inside of the Disconector hook limiting the Trigger Bars downward travel? This is a new one to me, interesting stuff.

Glad that you got things worked out. The flush cut Slide Stop looks nice. Thank you for the many pics.

Yes the bottom nose of the disconnector has a little lip.

If you look up a few posts you will see my trigger bar vs a newer trigger bar.

On mine, the slot for the nose of the disconnector is squared off.

This means the trigger bar was sitting on top of the  disconnector lip... The bottom of the trigger bar couldn't make contact with the frame.

This is why when I cut the ramp in the trigger bar the problem went away.

Still a mystery is why I had slide issues when I removed the disconnector. Maybe that was support spring issues.

[eastman]

looks good with the new set of grip panels.

[Underwhere]

New disconnector arrived today.

I dropped it in for some tests.

SA - the hammer drops to the disconnector hitting the trigger bar.

DA - I cannot get the hammer to fall. I just pull the trigger back and the trigger bar never drops. I need to check how far back the hammer is going relative to other DA CZ's that I have. I need to make sure it's far back enough to light off primers.

So I think the disconnector needs some fitting.
I'm not sure whether to try and fit the SA not falling or the DA issue first.

[Gunnerdad80]

When you pull the trigger in double action does the sear click on the half cocked notch of the hammer and lock in?

[Underwhere]

When you pull the trigger in double action does the sear click on the half cocked notch of the hammer and lock in?

Nope.

[Tok36]

   I agree that establishing the DA Hammer travel is a good start. Note that the DA Hammer travel is generally shorter to some degree than the SA Hammer travel in CZ 75 variants. It is my understanding that the difference in travel is increased with the Reach Reduction / Short Reach disconectors.

   If i am reading things correctly and the disco proves to be the source of the issue, i would go after the DA first. I am thinking that removing the material necessary to get the DA working may also cure the SA issue. Advancing the DA break should require removing material from the underside of the Disco wings. The remedy for the SA drop to disco issue generally requires removing material from the lower front corner of the disco wings.

I am interested to hear what you find out. These malfunctions do not come up that often from what i have seen. You are lucky Underwhere. 

[Underwhere]

   I agree that establishing the DA Hammer travel is a good start. Note that the DA Hammer travel is generally shorter to some degree than the SA Hammer travel in CZ 75 variants. It is my understanding that the difference in travel is increased with the Reach Reduction / Short Reach disconectors.

   If i am reading things correctly and the disco proves to be the source of the issue, i would go after the DA first. I am thinking that removing the material necessary to get the DA working may also cure the SA issue. Advancing the DA break should require removing material from the underside of the Disco wings. The remedy for the SA drop to disco issue generally requires removing material from the lower front corner of the disco wings.

I am interested to hear what you find out. These malfunctions do not come up that often from what i have seen. You are lucky Underwhere. 

Yes I'm thinking along the same lines.

But I'm also on my 2nd disco and I recognize that CGW knows a ton more than me.

I don't have time tonight, I am limited tomorrow so perhaps I'll just try and give CGW a call on Monday morning and see what they recommend.

To fix the DA in thinking that I need to take off a little of the underside of the wing. This will allow the disconnector to separate from the trigger bar which will allow the hammer to fall.

The thing I'm pondering over is whether I need to remove material from the flat or bevel it.

[Tok36]

   I agree that establishing the DA Hammer travel is a good start. Note that the DA Hammer travel is generally shorter to some degree than the SA Hammer travel in CZ 75 variants. It is my understanding that the difference in travel is increased with the Reach Reduction / Short Reach disconectors.

   If i am reading things correctly and the disco proves to be the source of the issue, i would go after the DA first. I am thinking that removing the material necessary to get the DA working may also cure the SA issue. Advancing the DA break should require removing material from the underside of the Disco wings. The remedy for the SA drop to disco issue generally requires removing material from the lower front corner of the disco wings.

I am interested to hear what you find out. These malfunctions do not come up that often from what i have seen. You are lucky Underwhere. 

Yes I'm thinking along the same lines.

But I'm also on my 2nd disco and I recognize that CGW knows a ton more than me.

I don't have time tonight, I am limited tomorrow so perhaps I'll just try and give CGW a call on Monday morning and see what they recommend.

To fix the DA in thinking that I need to take off a little of the underside of the wing. This will allow the disconnector to separate from the trigger bar which will allow the hammer to fall.

The thing I'm pondering over is whether I need to remove material from the flat or bevel it.

This is a good reason to ponder. If you find out anything interesting from CGW, i will be interested to hear about it.

[Underwhere]

I have the gun up and running finally.

I called CGW today and spoke to a gunsmith. Not the best conversation I've had with CGW but I combined their feedback with bit of my intelligence to figure out what I should be doing.

To recap:
After putting the new disconnector in there were 2 problems.
1. In SA the hammer was falling but the disconnector would hit the trigger bar, blocking the hammer from falling all the way
2. In DA I could not pull the trigger back far enough for the hammer to fall

I wasn't sure whether to try and tackle #1 or #2 first...but after thinking about it realized that tackling either one would likely alleviate the other.

CGW recommended I watch their video on fitting a disconnector which shows them taking off a tiny bit of the disconnector wing. The video probably gets a lay person 50% of the way there.

I removed the sear cage and was able to take a square stone to bevel the edge of the wing while it was still in the gun. I gave it about 8 strokes as it was a fine stone. I saw a tiny bit of material come off.

This fixed the DA hammer issue. I was pretty surprised at how little needed to be removed to fix it.
The SA issue continued.
I put in the overtravel screw and set it so the sear would clear the hammer hooks.
I went back to bevel more of the edge. I could feel the interference get better and better.
At one point I thought that I was free and clear but if I rocked the hammer back and forth while holding the trigger back I could feel the slightest friction.
So a few more passes with my stone.

Now the hammer falls in SA without interference.
The hammer releases in DA at almost the same point that the trigger breaks in SA (which is what Scott at CGW said is ideal)

I loctited my trigger set screws, my sear safety screw and now am letting it set overnight.

I need to confirm that the FPB is timed correctly tomorrow.

I am getting trigger pulls:
DA: 5# 5 ounces
SA: 2# 3 ounces

[Underwhere]

Old and new

[Gunnerdad80]

Nice, glad you got it lined out. Looks awesome.