Need advice on Dillon RL 550C

[Ricca]

Hi expert,
I've bought an used Dillon RL 550C in very good conditions and I've already loaded about 1,000 pistol cartridges.
I'm really happy with this press and I would like to ask some questions about it:

• How often do you grease the joints and lube the main shaft?
• I need advice in order to grease the Main Shaft Pivot Pin (part no. 13830): should I simply loosen the 1/4-2/8 Set Screw (13789) and slide out the pivot pin to grease it? Do I need to put some threadlocker onto the set screw when tighten it?
• The shellplate has some mechanical clearance: i.e. when I'm priming a brass the shellplate is just moving up a little bit but the brass are correctly primed. I suppose that this mechanical clearance is controlled by the shellplate bolt. The question is: how tight should be this bolt for proper operations?
• There is a little scratch on the blue paint that leave the metal exposed: please, what's the right way (and paint) to repair it (if it worth while)?
• Lately I'm experiencing a strange behaviour of the dillon powder measure: I discard the first 10 powder drops and then I check a couple of time the weight of the following drops; then for about 60-70 time the power drops are perfect (I check it again every 5 to 7 drops, every time the same weight). Suddenly the power drops are about from 0.1 to 0.2 gr lighter and no more consistent as the first 60-70 drops. I do not have any idea about it, here I need your long experience!

Thanks a lot in advance for your kindly support!
Merry Xmas,
Riccardo.

[lewmed]

 Riccardo you powder measure my be doing it's best at + or - .1 to .2 grains it depends on the type of powder you are using and static electricity can also cause problems try grounding the powder measure.

[Ktm45]

Hello Ricca and you are going to really enjoy your 550.

Personally I alway just lube the joints and keeping things clean makes the biggest difference. I have about 15K rounds of 9mm through mine in the last 14-16 months.  I do put a small amount of grease on the indexing detent ball. It just runs smoother. I’m really surprised that Dillon uses a course thread on the base plate/star bolt. If that big bolt was fine threaded it would make for a much better adjustment. IMO that adjustment makes indexing much easier and keeps any powder from spilling.
Personally I run a Dillon sizing die, Dillon powder drop with a Mr bullet feeder powder funnel, a Redding seating die, and a Redding taper crimp die.  I like the last two better vs the Dillon units but the Dillons are much better/easier to clean.    IMO the Dillon carbine decrimp/ sizing die it really hard to beat. I never have any issues with that thing!
  I’m really glad I bought the 550. It’s a workhorse and always works.  I run zero lube on/in the primmer slide. The cleaner that thing is the better it works consistently.   I almost forgot...I run the longer base below the primer slide unit. .....and yes I have the plastic aftermarket spent primmer funnel. That’s a must have.    I’m sure there is a 1050 (the new unit is the 1150) in my future ...but I will always have a 550 also.
Enjoy

[Wobbly]

Welcome Aboard !

1. How often you lubricate depends upon what you are using to do the job and your particular environment. You do not want the parts to run dry, because you have steel running in aluminum, which can become a wear issue. Also, lubrication contributes to smoother operation, which has been shown to reduce the variations in finished cartridges. Most new owners complain about huge variations in OAL, and we have to tell them to start lubricating. You're simply coming at this from the opposite end.

2. One thing you will quickly notice about the 550 is that the spent primer flapper catches the old primer, but does not do a great job of catching all the "smut" that comes out with the primer. That smut ends up landing right at the joint of the Main Shaft and press body, where it slowly works it's way in. In about 6 months you'll feel the operation of the press start to suffer as the action gets rougher and rougher.

• My idea is simply that: if grease is coming out, then dirt can't be going in. So in my thinking, I'm not lubricating the ram so much for smoothness, but rather to keep the smut from working its way in.

• You are correct. The pin at the bottom of the Main Shaft takes a beating but there's no good way to lubricate it. I've owned almost 10 of these presses now, and the worst wear is always at that pin. So lubrication is mandatory at those 2 points.

Notice that the press already has several 5/64" (2mm) lubrication holes, so my solution has been to simply add a few more. In this way the adding a few "matching holes" does not deter from the value, but does allow the necessary lubrication.

For the 550 Main Shaft I add a single hole in the front of the press, centered top to bottom. [The 650 is better drilled from the RH side.] Looks like this...



Then for the lower yoke, I add one hole on each side of the yoke. Looks like this...


[As an option you can also drill the rod and distribute grease from the center out into the yoke, but this requires a metal lathe and drill press.]

Then the question becomes, how can I get grease into such a tiny hole ? The answer is called "Needle Nozzle" grease guns. Like This One Right Here Or, if you already own a standard automotive grease gun, then you can get needles (like this one right HERE) to plug into the end of a standard Zerk. (Funny thing, but the needle is so small that you can inject grease into Zerks too.)

3. The proper tightness on the center bolt is "as tight as you can get it and still be able to turn the shell plate". Again, a dab of grease under the head of the bolt and under the shell plate help. I run it down all the way and then back it off by loosening the bolt maybe 3/16" or 4mm. If it's too lose you'll have issues withdrawing the case from the dies on the up stroke of the op lever.

4. You can call Dillon about paint issues. Everything that's painted blue is aluminum, so it's not going to rust, flake, or somehow become worse.

5. The Dillon powder measure is one of the best measures on the market, but there are ways you can help.

• Some powders simply refuse to meter well in any powder measure. Big flat flakes and long rod type powders simply don't do well. Most of your more modern powders consider this and have gone to some type of "ball" powder. You didn't name your powder, but each powder has an individual behavior so don't believe for an instant that this is common behavior across all powders. For common pistol loads (9mm, 38, 40) we can recommend Alliant Sport Pistol.

• For loads under ~15gr you need to install the Small Powder Bar. The small powder bar is the "half height" slide with the stationary upper bar. Your press shipped originally with this bar, but you may not have received it in your purchase.

• I've found that adding a spring assist to the powder bar return can help. The Gen 1 Dillon powder measures used a spring which you can get from Dillon. I re-install that, but at a lower tension. It adds a little 'slap' to the action which helps in obtaining a consistent powder density.

Here's a photo of the Small Powder Bar and reduced force retraction spring installed...


If you need help with any of this, I do general machine work for the guys here, so just send me a PM.

Hope this helps.

[Ricca]

Riccardo you powder measure my be doing it's best at + or - .1 to .2 grains it depends on the type of powder you are using and static electricity can also cause problems try grounding the powder measure.

Thanks a lot lewmed for your kindly answer, I'll try to ground the powder measure and check if something is changing.

[Wobbly]

IMHO, the Dillon powder measure does not need grounding. That's something you do to cheaper all-plastic powder measures plagued with static issues. Better powder measures made with metal parts typically don't have that issue, unless the environment is just totally wrong.

We are in static electricity season, so if your home is a known static laboratory, and you get shocked at every door knob, then the first step is to wipe the powder hopper with anti-static wipes like you might have for your clothes dryer. These are cheap and effective. But again, if you're not getting shocked in the rooms that share the same heating system with your reloading room, then you don't have a static issue.

 

[Ricca]

Wobbly, thanks a lot for your exhaustive answer!

Welcome Aboard !

1. How often you lubricate depends upon what you are using to do the job and your particular environment. You do not want the parts to run dry, because you have steel running in aluminum, which can become a wear issue. Also, lubrication contributes to smoother operation, which has been shown to reduce the variations in finished cartridges. Most new owners complain about huge variations in OAL, and we have to tell them to start lubricating. You're simply coming at this from the opposite end.

Luckily my environment is very clean and my brass are already deprimed (on a different press) and cleaned. I'm lubing the main shaft at teh end of every session (maybe it's an overkill) and the variations in OAL are coherent with the round size variation.

2. One thing you will quickly notice about the 550 is that the spent primer flapper catches the old primer, but does not do a great job of catching all the "smut" that comes out with the primer. That smut ends up landing right at the joint of the Main Shaft and press body, where it slowly works it's way in. In about 6 months you'll feel the operation of the press start to suffer as the action gets rougher and rougher.

• My idea is simply that: if grease is coming out, then dirt can't be going in. So in my thinking, I'm not lubricating the ram so much for smoothness, but rather to keep the smut from working its way in.

As told before, it took me more time but I removed this problem from the beginning avoiding any kind of depriming onto this press 

• You are correct. The pin at the bottom of the Main Shaft takes a beating but there's no good way to lubricate it. I've owned almost 10 of these presses now, and the worst wear is always at that pin. So lubrication is mandatory at those 2 points.

You confirmed me the importance of this joint: I'm going to grease it every a couple of thousand round and, depending on the results (still lot of grease or without grease) increase/decrease the "service" time

Notice that the press already has several 5/64" lubrication holes, so my solution has been to simply add a few more. In this way the adding a few "matching holes" does not deter from the value, but does allow the necessary lubrication.

For the 550 Main Shaft I add a single hole in the front of the press, centered top to bottom. [The 650 is better drilled from the RH side.] Looks like this...



Then for the lower yoke, I add one hole on each side of the yoke. Looks like this...

That's really a good and simple idea, I just need to win my fear to drill my press (even because, at this time, I do not have a drill press or any "professional" way to do it) 

[As an option you can also drill the rod and distribute grease from the center out into the yoke, but this requires a metal lathe and drill press.]

That's a very professional solution; I wonder why Dillon didn't come up with this since the beginning

Then the question becomes, how can I get grease into such a tiny hole ? The answer is called "Needle Nozzle" grease guns. Like This One Right Here Or, if you already own a standard automotive grease gun, then you can get needles to plug into the end of a standard Zerk. (Funny thing, but the needle is so small that you can inject grease into Zerks too.)

I've already got a standard automotive grease gun   

3. The proper tightness on the center bolt is "as tight as you can get it and still be able to turn the shell plate". Again, a dab of grease under the head of the bolt and under the shell plate help. I run it down all the way and then back it off by loosening the bolt maybe 3/16". If it's too lose you'll have issues withdrawing the case from the dies on the up stroke of the op lever.

That's what I needed! Thanks a lot Wobbly! +1

4. You can call Dillon about paint issues. Everything that's painted blue is aluminum, so it's not going to rust, flake, or somehow become worse.

I understand that there isn't any risk of rust, I just would like to know what kind of paint (and solvent) I could use and be sure that will not have any adverse reaction with the original blue one. I'll check if I can write to Dillon, I think calling them from Italy for such thing maybe is not really feasible.

5. The Dillon powder measure is one of the best measures on the market, but there are ways you can help.

Completely agree with you!

• Some powders simply refuse to meter well in any powder measure. Big flat flakes and long rod type powders simply don't do well. Most of your more modern powders consider this and have gone to some type of "ball" powder. You didn't name your powder, but each powder has an individual behavior so don't believe for an instant that this is common behavior across all powders. For common pistol loads (9mm, 38, 40) we can recommend Alliant Sport Pistol.

I forgot to give you more information... I know powder behave differently. I'm using a ball powder that's easy to find here where I live (Cheddite Granular S Large) to reload 9x21 with 5 gr; I appreciate your advice but I'm not able to find out Alliant powder in my region. I can confirm you that for the first 60/70 drops the weight is perfectly the same but then it start to be lighter. As suggested by lewmed I'll investigate on static electricity.

• For loads under ~15gr you need to install the Small Powder Bar. The small powder bar is the "half height" slide with the stationary upper bar. Your press shipped originally with this bar, but you may not have received it in your purchase.

That's the bar that in in place!

• I've found that adding a spring assist to the powder bar return can help. The Gen 1 Dillon powder measures used a spring which you can get from Dillon. I re-install that, but at a lower tension. It adds a little 'slap' to the action which helps in obtaining a consistent powder density.

I will investigate this solution too, but it is strange that at the beginning the drops are correct and consistent and then they start to be lighter and inconsistent

Here's a photo of the Small Powder Bar and reduced force retraction spring installed...


If you need help with any of this, I do general machine work for the guys here, so just send me a PM.

Hope this helps.

Unfortunately we are not so close  but I'll take in consideration the implementation of a reduced force retraction spring, I think it's a really good upgrade for my powder measure.

And, for sure, you helped me a lot!
Thank you very much!
Ciao,
Riccardo.

[Ricca]

IMHO, the Dillon powder measure does not need grounding. That's something you do to cheaper all-plastic powder measures plagued with static issues. Better powder measures made with metal parts typically don't have that issue, unless the environment is just totally wrong.

We are in static electricity season, so if your home is a known static laboratory, and you get shocked at every door knob, then the first step is to wipe the powder hopper with anti-static wipes like you might have for your clothes dryer. These are cheap and effective. But again, if you're not getting shocked in the rooms that share the same heating system with your reloading room, then you don't have a static issue.

 

Hi Wobbly,
I noticed some very little powder kernel "glued"/"attached" to the plastic cilynder... It seems a sign of the static electricity.
I have to say that when I experienced the issue I was wearing a sweater made with fleece and moving up and down the arm to operate the press I could have created some static electricity. I think that could worthwhile a simple cleaning with an antistatic tissue and avoid any fleece clothing
Thanks a lot again for your kindly support!
Ciao,
Riccardo.

[Wobbly]

I noticed some very little powder kernel "glued"/"attached" to the plastic cilynder... It seems a sign of the static electricity. I have to say that when I experienced the issue I was wearing a sweater made with fleece and moving up and down the arm to operate the press I could have created some static electricity. I think that could worthwhile a simple cleaning with an antistatic tissue and avoid any fleece clothing
Thanks a lot again for your kindly support!

I see you are in Italy, which covers a lot of various altitudes and climate zones. If you are wearing a sweater, then I'm guessing you're in the north and it's cold. Static usually only becomes an issue when both the temperatures and humidity are low. So you meet at least 1 of the criteria.

However, the powder measure is metal, and the plastic hopper is made from a special plastic. Powder will cling to the hopper in normal circumstances. If you can tap on the sides of the hopper and get it to fall, then it's most probably NOT static.

Some more ideas...
• I'm thinking your measuring issue is more likely associated with not having enough powder in the hopper. You want enough powder in the hopper to at least cover the top of the baffle, and hopefully far more than that. Maybe 1/3 to 1/2 full (far more than what you'll use). The weight of the column drives the powder into the Powder Bar.

• The outer bell-crank has a cam that suddenly releases the Powder Bar for return, when the ram pulls down on the Pull Rod. When released, the Powder Bar should Snap! back. There is an adjustment on that rod to insure that happens properly.

If your press is brand new, then it is quite common for the Powder Bar to return slowly. That is not good and will lead to poor powder metering. There are 2 things you can do to help: 1) Add graphite powder down into the hopper. Graphite is a lubricant found on most powders, so after loading thousands of rounds it would get in there anyway. Graphite Powder. 2) Second thing is add a VERY light spring to help the Powder Bar return. It just needs a tiny bit of help sometimes. This was previously explained.


Can't rule static out completely, but those ideas are much more likely to contribute to poor metering.

Hope this helps. 

[Ricca]

Thanks a lot again Wobbly for your kindness!

I see you are in Italy, which covers a lot of various altitudes and climate zones. If you are wearing a sweater, then I'm guessing you're in the north and it's cold. Static usually only becomes an issue when both the temperatures and humidity are low. So you meet at least 1 of the criteria.

  This time you can get both: it's cold and dry

If you can tap on the sides of the hopper and get it to fall, then it's most probably NOT static.

That's the issue... if I tap the sides of the hopper, the powder is still there and don't want to fall.

Some more ideas...
[...]

I appreciate very much your advice to avoid any poor metering; indeed I try to have always the hopper full for at least 1/3.
My powder measure is not brand new and it seems to cycle well, but, as you suggested a couple of time, I will add a very light spring to help the Powder Bar return (I'm sure that will improve the accuracy and repeatability of the powder measure).

By the way I've "cleaned" the hopper with an antistatic tissue and it seems it's going better (I have to find a way to try ground the powder measure/press and check the results).
Moreover I did the set up the shellplate bolt as you told (and very light greased the Index Ball and the contact between the head of the shellplate bolt and the Index Sprocket): now it cycles very well and smoth.

I've appreciated very much your advice!
Thanks a lot again Wobbly!
Ciao,
Riccardo.

[Wobbly]

• You simply need more humidity in your winter air. Time to move to Sicily !! 

• I'll be in northern Italy in April, and can make a "house call".