Author Topic: CZ 75 Compact (Unfired) gives FALSE RESET after Hard Chrome Plating ...  (Read 2025 times)

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Offline k7zs

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Hello All

Got back my CZ 75B Compact from Mahovsky's MetaLife after plating (THAT's another story for another day  :-\)

The UNFIRED pistol, now SO handsome, has a serious problem. 

When testing the TRIGGER RESET by dry firing and cycling the slide keeping trigger depressed, when slowly releasing trigger to check reset, heard first a soft Click then a full CLICK.  ??WTF?? Tried it again, and pulled trigger after just the 'soft' click.  THE trigger DROPPED THE HAMMER, but with obviously less power.  After doing this a few times, I noticed that the Firing Pin Block was NOT moving, so the gun won't fire ... really messed up.  Not fully cocked, no FPB, but will drop hammer.  Egads.

I took it apart far enough to remove sear, but left the trigger bar installed. It appears the trigger bar, on it's return to firing position, is getting past the sear 'tab' before fully getting in front of both the sear and FPB 'tab'.  The soft click resets sear, thelouder click is the trigger bar snapping upward after finally clearing the FPB 'tab' under the sear and lifts up so it will move both sear and FPB at the same time.  Like it's supposed to ...

MetaLife Hard Chrome plating only adds .002 thickness, so I cannot believe that has thrown the timing off that much.  It doesn't appear to me that the sear cage was reassembled incorrectly. Pretty simple on the 75B with safety.  I'm by no means a pro, but I have installed CGW Pro Upgrade kits in my SP-01, P-09 etc. so I have enough of the proper tools to take these apart and get them back together.

BUT ... any clues great;u appreciated! I can post some photos if necessary, maybe even a link to a video if that would help.

All the best

Kevin

Offline jurek

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Let start from the very beginning:
Have you checked the pistol in original state before plating?

Offline M1A4ME

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Had a similar (?) issue with the CZ75 Compact (that looks like a P01) after converting it to SAO. 

As with yours, the trigger would move forward far enough to all the sear to reset but the firing pin block lifting arm wasn't resetting.

I could pull the trigger and drop the hammer - but the firing pin block was not lifting up out of the way.

Sound like yours?

On mine, at least, the trigger bar has to move forward just a bit more to reset the firing pin block lifting arm vs. the sear.
I just keep wasting time and money on other brands trying to find/make one shoot like my P07 and P09.  What is wrong with me?

Offline Tok36

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I would check that the Mag Release Spring Screw is tight. Closely inspect the Trigger Bar Springs position under the MRSS, make sure that it is not significantly out of wack. Check the TBS tension balance to each side of the Trigger Bar.

Will work for CZ pics! (including but not limited to all CZ clones)

Offline k7zs

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Jurek, of courese can't rewind the clock, but I've had this gun for a while, but yes the trigger reset evaluation when getting it was normal.

M1A4ME ... this sounds IDENTICAL to what is happening with me. Releasing trigger to first 'soft' click would allows the trigger to be pulled and drop the hammer, but the trigger bar has not yet made it all the way forward to spring up and catch both 'tabs'...

TOK36, the MRSS is staked, but it was removed and replaced for the plating job I believe.  the TVS is in the grooves, height looks normal.

WHAT I CAN SAY, is that when the Trigger Bar is HELD TIGHT against the left, non ejection side during the cycle, it DOES NOT SOFT RESET  The trigger bar actually moves slightly to the right (ejection port side) when the soft click occurs??? It's moving 'around' or getting past a boss or something?  The left side of the TB is kept down by the safety shaft, but the TB seems able to move about left/right more than on my SP-01.  I'll inspect the TBS for looseness and tension, but now I will remove the trigger bar and trigger to see if the trigger pin has been compromised.

QUESTION: how much 'lateral play' should be in the Trigger Bar.  Forward / Backward, yet ... but side to side?

Thanks for the replies, I'll see what I can find.

-Kevin



Offline jurek

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QUESTION: how much 'lateral play' should be in the Trigger Bar.  Forward / Backward, yet ... but side to side?
I don't know how much it should be, but I don't have much, I'd say not at all...

Offline k7zs

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WELL ... situation has resolved itself!

The problem was a small mismatch between the sear and firing pin block, I guess with the small added dimension, it was JUST hanging up the trigger bar momentarily while the seer side had already cleared.  This caused the trigger bar to lift ever so slightly on that side, but it DID catch the sear and would indeed trip the hammer. 

With repeated cycling to watch it, obviously causing some wear on the FPB side, it finally was no longer able to keep the trigger bar against the spring, and now the reset is correct.

So, a little 'breaking in' and the small amount of difference between the 2 parts has worked itself in.

Put it all back together, and tomorrow it will see the range for the first time ... and break it in at last!  I do have the Cajun Gun Works SRS-1 short reset kit for it, and lighter recoil spring, but will give the 'stock' gun some time first.

Thanks for all the ideas, I learned a lot about how the entire seer and lock works work!  I can take it down now in about 3 minutes!

Not sure how to put a photo into the post, but she's a looker!

-Kevin


Offline SEAKPhotog

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Glad the issue resolved itself. I just had this same exact issue and the folks at CGW suggested I ensure the trigger bar springs were correctly set/tensioned. They emailed a PDF showing the proper positioning of the spring on each side of the bar. I adjusted the springs and viola, my problem was solved.

Offline jurek

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Great ! There is no better lesson than making this by yourself  8) I'm glad you've resolved it pretty quick  :)

Here you have post about pictures... Please post the photo of your plated firearm .

https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=93202.msg711086#msg711086