Installing rear sights on a cz 75 compact

[Freedom55]

I will be receiving my Dawson precision fiber optic kit today.

I have no sight pusher tool. I do not plan on spending $60 plus dollars to buy one.

Any advice on installing with basic tools?

[john seeley]

You don't need a sight pusher. I mean, it makes the job easier especially for fine tuning to zero-in at the range, but not necessary.

If you have a work bench vice, it makes the job easy to remove and install the rear sight and to remove/install the front sight pin. Dawson gives you a free nylon tipped punch. And you need a light hammer. Try the Dawson punch first to remove the factory rear sight but if it's stubborn, then resort to a steel punch which will definitely mar your factory sight. (I had to use a steel nail punch to remove the rear sight on my P01 after I totally destroyed the Dawson punch.) I think you remove the rear sight from right to left. (You'll see fine marks on the factory rear sight showing the direction it was installed.) Also I read to remove the front sight pin from right to left b/c the hole on the left is bigger.. not sure if that's true.

Use lots of masking tape to protect the slide's finish. (Punches have a tenancy to slip and hit stuff you don't want to hit). I also put masking tape around the shoulder of the Dawson punch because that shoulder always seems to hit the finish. Of course use some sort of padding in the vice to protect the slide's finish especially on the extractor side because it protrudes out a bit. I never installed sights without a vice so I can't offer advice on using a block.

Be as meticulous as possible and take your time. If you begin to rush or get anxious, walk away and come back later.
It can be tricky making fine adjustments with a punch to zero it in at the range because you really can't see the sight moving and sometimes it doesn't move at all or you hit it too far.... so a lot of trial and error of tapping the sight. Don't use loctite until it's zero'd.

-Dawson nylon tipped punch (or steel punch for stubborn rear factory sight)
-Light hammer (nylon hammer is helpful tapping in the new front sight)
-Masking tape
-1/16" or 2mm punch to remove the front sight pin. Preferably a 2mm roll pin punch but not necessary.
-Sandpaper, sharpening block, and/or small needle files to fit the sights. There's lots of videos on fitting and installing sights. Everyone fits sights differently so I'm not going to describe how I do it.

[M1A4ME]

And take your sight installation "tools" to the range so you can adjust that rear sight for windage if you need to do so while sighting it in.

[mkd]

freedom55, you can fit the dovetail base of the rear sight some to get the dovetail to enter the rear of the slide half way or so. start by tapering the sight base on the right side that enters the slide dove tail first. I used magic marker to mark the bare spots on the sight base to see where the base needed to be filed a bit. i used a small file and a diamond sharpening hone. Take your time and fit by trial and error remarking the base with magic marker as you go.       , do not file anything from the slide dovetail. i fit the rear and front sight dovetail and base so that it took a Moderate amount of hammering and a punch to get it in place. If your camera has a magnifyer or you have a glass one take a good look at the stake mark if there is one between the base and slide or at least get a good visual where the rear sight is positioned before you remove it. once i sighted it in i used a dab of blue loctite on the set screw and all four corners of the dovetail. a dab under the set screw will push the loctite down into the base as you turn it in slowly to seat it.

[Tok36]

   Note: Some of this is redundant from the posts above.

   It is likely that the rear sight will require fitting. This entails removing material from the bottom of the sight until it can be installed by hand about half way into the dovetail. The sight can then be driven the rest of the way in with a hammer and punch. I generally use a brass punch if the nylon is not doing the job. Brass markings can be removed with Super fine Steel Wool and gun oil if needed. I would avoid a steel punch until you have expended all other available options. There are some cases where steel can be required for removal of the factory sight, but it is likely to do some damage. For removal and install direction, you can usually closely examine the markings on the factory rear sight to ascertain the install direction. I have never done a rear sight with a hammer and punch without a vice that is padded with something.

Once properly fit, i have always been able to do front sights with the nylon punch alone. I have done some fronts without a vice without issue.

   If this is your first go at this, patience and time are your best assets. If you are not sure stop, reassess and ask question if necessary. Being in a hurry can lead to you damaging the new sights. Do not plan on shooting the pistol the next day or even the next week depending on how things go.

[Freedom55]

Thank you all. I don’t have a bench vise. Considering that this is most likely a necessity, I will have to really think about this.

[SoCal]

You can clamp it directly to the bench using a board under the slide with a notch cut for the slide to drop into.  If you do this use plenty of clamps.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

Thank you all. I don’t have a bench vise. Considering that this is most likely a necessity, I will have to really think about this.

If you don't have a quality vise that is securely mounted to a hard surface I would consider buying a decent sight pusher or having a gunsmith install the sights for you otherwise your next post could very well be about refinishing your slide.