Author Topic: Sar K!2 replacing the sear spring  (Read 1336 times)

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Offline mikeAZ

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Sar K!2 replacing the sear spring
« on: February 03, 2022, 10:04:01 PM »
Having issues, can some one post the "how To"... I've tried from the top and from the bottom...Made slave pins lost & found 3 times... No luck so far... Thought I was Semi skilled???..Looked for videos .. 

Offline newageroman

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Re: Sar K!2 replacing the sear spring
« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2022, 10:05:45 AM »
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Offline mikeAZ

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Re: Sar K!2 replacing the sear spring
« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2022, 10:47:10 AM »
Yes, I have their spring kit... BUT... the K12 sear spring is not included... The K12 sear spring has one leg longer than the other, the short leg seems to push the sear flat side before I can maneuver the pin through the spring coil... Must be a way to do it as the Factory has it figured out (Someone has nibble fingers or some kind of tool).  Mike

Offline mikeAZ

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Re: Sar K!2 replacing the sear spring
« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2022, 05:57:37 PM »
Well, I'm smarter than I thought?... I finally got the sear spring reinstalled, whew...I literally spent hours on this simple task?.. The savior was a tight fitting short "pop" rivet I shortened. I left the rivet end on as it stopped the shank end  from going into the spring nesting area. on the top side of the cage  a wooden "pop" cycle stick dished and narrowed to allow pressure to be applied to the spring... I held the sear legs upright.... It finally dawned on me that I could easily push the spring to near the slave pin hole... BUT I needed to not only push down on the spring BUT also forward (Like on a angle)... (IF the short leg of the spring   was 1/16 " longer... This would be a non issue). I also cobbled up a 1/4" long piece of 1" sq. stock. that I could set the sear body in.. this let me keep the long leg of  the sear spring from moving forward or backward as I tried to push the spring down and push the roll pin through the sear spring hole... Actually, the "pop" cycle stick was too narrow, something trimmed to the width of the sear spring coils should work better. Polished everything, ended up with the nice 2.5 # trigger..Mike

Offline himurax13

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Re: Sar K!2 replacing the sear spring
« Reply #4 on: February 10, 2022, 09:19:26 AM »
How is this more difficult than installing a new sear or sear spring on a Tanfoglio?

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Offline mikeAZ

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Re: Sar K!2 replacing the sear spring
« Reply #5 on: February 10, 2022, 02:03:14 PM »
Don't have a Tanfoglio.... Don't know?... You need something to keep the sear block from moving while trying to reinsert the sear spring or be nimble  or lucky...I didn't take the sear block apart on the 2nd. one, trigger tested about the same. The sear is reported to be "mim" so I didn't stone it or the hammer hooks much anyway.

If you put a mini dot on?, EGW has several that will fit, #49407 works with Leopold Pro Dot and some others.... Getting the stock rear sight off is a task, there are 2 set screws under the rear sight top, PLUS lot's of a form of Locktite' I couldn't loosen the set screws so I just drove them out with the inclosed tool... A sight pusher would be a big help. I had to do some minor fitting to the mount.. got it about 1/2 way then tapped it in the rest of the way..

Offline himurax13

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Re: Sar K!2 replacing the sear spring
« Reply #6 on: February 10, 2022, 03:33:31 PM »
Installing the sear spring in a Tanfoglio or CZ75 sear cage is about the same. I usually slide the pin through the cage and the sear and hold the sear spring in place. If that proves to be difficult, I make a slave pin from a qtip and make it slightly shorter than the sear and install the sear spring before placing it into the sear cage then push the pin through.

I usually stone the sear lightly to remove rough edges. I have seen up to a 1/2 pound drop going from the 4 coil spring to the reduced power 3 coil spring.