Progressive press questions

[Dan_69GTX]

I have the LNL press with the case feeder and recently bought a Dillon RL1100.  I like both!  And both have little tweaks that need to be addressed.

Whatever you get - get a case feeder!  I was amazed at the output speed increase!

I like Dillon's adjustable speed case feeder better.  It also required less tweaks to get cases to drop properly.

Like what was said - the Dillon RL1100 is MUCH more expensive to convert to a different caliber.  I use it for 9mm, 300BO and 223.  All other calibers are not needed in great quantity so I load them on the LNL since it is sooo much cheaper for the conversions.

I found that 223 is a royal pain to do on the LNL due to all the steps needed to remove the crimped primer pocket.  That is done automatically on the RL1100  (I don't believe the 650/750 gives you that option from the factory - I recall someone saying there is an aftermarket option for that - do your research).  That is one of the main reasons I got the RL1100 - so I don't have to care about military brass for 9mm and 223/5.56.

Ask questions - this forum is a GREAT place to learn!  I've learned SOOOO much from here!!

I have aftermarket stuff on both presses.

[Harrell2Xtap]

You can remove the crimp on 650/750 but not while your loading like the 1100 can do. It's just 1 more step I size 223 brass and trim and remove crimp on my 650 then clean again and she's ready to load and I agree with the last post all machines will need a little tweaking some more than others but they all have there personalities.

[Wobbly]

I found that 223 is a royal pain to do on the LNL due to all the steps needed to remove the crimped primer pocket.  That is done automatically on the RL1100  (I don't believe the 650/750 gives you that option from the factory - I recall someone saying there is an aftermarket option for that - do your research).  That is one of the main reasons I got the RL1100 - so I don't have to care about military brass for 9mm and 223/5.56.

Several comments here...
> Obviously removing the crimp from the primer pocket is a one-time deal. It's not like decapping; once it's done it never needs to be done again. So it is done BEFORE reloading begins and is not really part of the true "reloading process". Keep that in mind.

> Use of the 3rd party option to swage the primer pocket on the 550, 650 or 750 is done on the "priming stroke" and stresses the platen in a way it wasn't designed to absorb. My understanding is that using these devices will void your Dillon warranty on the press, because the risk of breaking the press body is greatly increased.

Normally these devices might be used in a single-stage press on the "down stroke", which creates a load in the direction the press was designed to take. There is no problem when used like that.

Suggested remedies for 223 and 308 primer pocket crimp removal are the Dillon Pocket Swager, or a common counter sink cutter turning in a drill press.

No one bothers to remove primer pocket crimps on pistol brass. It's so rare that it's easier to send  that brass to the scrap bin and move on.

[double-d]

Suggested remedies for 223 and 308 primer pocket crimp removal are the Dillon Pocket Swager

Yep, I use this guy on .22 & .30 calibers (my only Dillon piece)

https://www.dillonprecision.com/s000277

Only needs to be done once, tumble clean, lube  and into the LNL hopper. 

[tdogg]

No one bothers to remove primer pocket crimps on pistol brass. It's so rare that it's easier to send  that brass to the scrap bin and move on.

Speak for yourself, now that I run a S1050 everything gets swaged regardless if it is needed or not.

I find that some pistol primer pockets are "tight" and swaging them ensures smooth primer insertion.  I have the new FW Arms Dynamic Case Hold Down die that is great for swaging mixed headstamp cases (on S1050 or on press priming) as it uses a spring to hold down the case and can adjust on the fly for various head webbing thickness.

Prior to running the S1050 if I ran across a crimped pistol primer pocket, I'd grab the case off the shell plate and cut the crimp using my Lyman case prep center and the Hornady small primer pocket reamer linked below.  It took a few seconds and would ensure I didn't have to deal with it again.  Sometimes I would loose a primer before I felt it sometimes I could feel it and stopped in time.  It is rare to have crimped pistol pockets but 9mm WCC headstamps are notorious for being crimped.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1165253550?pid=253550

Cheers,
Toby

[Dan_69GTX]

True, you never need to de-crimp again, but I don’t mark my brass, so after a competition I just decrimp everything!

I have access to thousands of 9mm military crimped brass.  Never accepted them when I only had the LNL, but now I can use them. 

[Minfred]

My bench had a Dillon SDB and 550 side by side. I would load until I was ankle deep then head to the range. Dillion's warranty is great.

[JBruns]

No one bothers to remove primer pocket crimps on pistol brass. It's so rare that it's easier to send  that brass to the scrap bin and move on.

That used to be true. But during the pandemic, I was finding a lot of crimped 9mm brass at the range. It was part of the reason I upgraded from my Dillon 650 to an RL1100, which of course solved that issue.

[TS2GREEN]

For what it’s worth, when I was looking to get into reloading, everyone I shoot with told me to just go get a Dillon 650. If I picked up something else, I’d wind up with a Dillon anyway. I went and bought one, after over 100K rounds made through it, it was a solid choice. I’ve only replace a couple springs so far, no issues to speak of.  From what I understand the 750 has taken the 650’s place.

[Wobbly]

From what I understand the 750 has taken the 650’s place.

While the 650 is still supported with parts and warranty, it has been replaced in the lineup with the 750. I believe the 550-style shuttle-type primer feed was cheaper to make and service, but I for one have been really happy with the 650's rotary feed.

Having come to the 650 from the 550 I feel qualified to say that the shuttle-type primer feed system's reliability all rests upon the plastic feed lips at the bottom of the primer feed tube. When/if those lips get nicked, things can go sour fairly quickly for the shuttle. And while it is quicker to swap primer sizes with the shuttle design, these days with 45ACP going to SPP, that's a once a year change over for me.

Hope this helps.

[lewmed]

 The rotary primer system on my over 20 year old 650 has given me very few problems and has loaded well over 200,000 rounds. But I must admit I like everything about my XL750 better than my old 650 except for the plastic primer feed tips I replaced mine with home made brass tips after about 30,000 rounds.  My two Dillon machines are mounted side by side on my work bench with the 650 set up for large primers and the 750 for small primers.

[Wobbly]

My two Dillon machines are mounted side by side on my work bench with the 650 set up for large primers and the 750 for small primers.

That would certainly be one possible "work around". 

[aasbra]

Don’t know that I have much to add that hasn’t already been covered.  My progressive experience has been with Dillon.  I load on a 550 that my Dad bought probably 30 years ago, a 650 with a case feeder I bought used 3-4 years ago, and occasionally on a SBD set up for 45ACP. 

I load handgun cartridges on the Dillons, and rifle rounds on a couple single stage presses since I don’t load high volume for rifle.  I mainly leave the 550 set up for LPP loading, and the 650 for higher volume 9mm and 45 ACP SPP brass loads, 38/357, and .40.  I picked up the SBD a couple years ago as part of a package, and it works well too. Honestly, all 3 of them work good, and can benefit from a few tweaks and mods if one is so inclined. 

For high volume loading sessions, the case feeder on the 650 or higher series is nice.  The 550 is a very versatile machine, though.  If I was doing high volume in only 2-3 handgun calibers, I’d look at the 650/750 series or up (1050/1100) with a case feeder.  If doing quite a few calibers, the conversions and toolhead costs add up for the 1050 or 1100, and the initial cost is higher for the press.  You can pick up used 550s sometimes for a good price. 

[wgg]

I have not purchased a progressive yet.  I saw someone mentioned resale value and the fact that Dillon holds its value.  Something to consider.  I appreciate the input.

[lewmed]

 Dillion equipment does hold it's value. When a friend passed away about a year ago I was asked by his family to help sell his loading equipment.  The first person who came to look at his Dillon equipment bought both loading machines and most of the caliber conversions, die sets and spare parts for close to retail. The family netted about $1,800 for 15 year old equipment that cost less than that when it was new. His RCBS and Lyman equipment brought 40% of retail and I had spend 2 weekends at gun shows to sell most of it.