CZ 75 Firing Pin Retention Pin Problem

[Minfred]

I hear some people complaining that the sacrificial nature of the firing pin retention pin is not widely known because CZ does not print this information in the manuals.
 

[tdogg]

It's a sacraficial part.  I'd inspect it yearly.  It's inexpensive but critical for function.  You can help save it by using a oring when dry firing.  You should still inspect it annually regardless.

Cheers,
Toby

[Minfred]

It's a sacraficial part.  I'd inspect it yearly.  It's inexpensive but critical for function.  You can help save it by using a oring when dry firing.  You should still inspect it annually regardless.

Cheers,
Toby

How do you feel about the practice of replacing the stock roll pin with a hard steel pin?
Personally, I lean towards a roll pin instead of the hard pin. 

[M1A4ME]

Some CZs damage that pin, some don't.

It's an issue with other pistols as well.  XD/XDM pistols are reported to suffer from the same issue.  Special pins are sold for those as well.

If the firing pin is striking the retaining pin hard enough to damage it I would think replacing the pin with one harder than the firing pin would result in damage to the firing pin.  Two pieces of metal striking against each other will result in damage to one of them sooner or later.  What do you want to replace?  I cheap roll pin or a firing pin?

Can you see through the roll pin side to side?  If not the pin may be damaged and need replacement.

I've wondered (a time or three) about finding a drill bit that will snugly fit through the firing pin retaining pin and putting it in my tool box as a CZ FPRP checker.  If the drill bit won't easily fit through the roll pin then I ought to be putting a new pin in it ASAP.

Oh, I've got a few CZs.  While I have removed the pins, seen some damage on some of them, I've never had one break, yet.

[tdogg]

It's a sacraficial part.  I'd inspect it yearly.  It's inexpensive but critical for function.  You can help save it by using a oring when dry firing.  You should still inspect it annually regardless.

Cheers,
Toby

How do you feel about the practice of replacing the stock roll pin with a hard steel pin?
Personally, I lean towards a roll pin instead of the hard pin.

So CGW used to sell a fully hardened solid steel retaining pin.   The problem that arose as M1A pointed out is that the hardened steel pin would peen the firing pin and it would get stuck in the slide.  Sometimes this damage would requiring machining to get out.  I had several in my cz's that I had to replace firing pins on due to damage but none requiring machining to get out.

The current CGW retaining pin is a hardened spring steel split roll pin that has some give.  I'm not sure if the factory has followed suit and are now using this style or the softer steel spiral roll pin?  I think my SP01 came with two split steel roll pins nested together.

Regardless don't use a solid retaining pin,  used a quality split roll pin and inspect it frequently depending on usage.

Cheers,
Toby

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[NeedCZ]

Here is an example of a damaged pin

https://imgur.com/gallery/YJsFfPJ

[Minfred]

Some CZs damage that pin, some don't.

Can you see through the roll pin side to side?  If not the pin may be damaged and need replacement.

I cannot see through my 20 year old CZ75B .40 firing pin retention roll pin. My CZ has been shot enough to leave me shin deep in brass so I suspect the removal process of that pin will be interesting.  I was not aware of this issue until I purchased a CGW Pro Package and dove into YouTube-U for guidance on the install.
I have a 75D on the 10 day background hold and an SP01 paid for and waiting for its turn at a DROS. I will purchase spare roll pins and change them about as often as I change the oil in my truck... which is more often than recommend.

[M1A4ME]

Some CZs damage that pin, some don't.

Can you see through the roll pin side to side?  If not the pin may be damaged and need replacement.

I cannot see through my 20 year old CZ75B .40 firing pin retention roll pin. My CZ has been shot enough to leave me shin deep in brass so I suspect the removal process of that pin will be interesting.  I was not aware of this issue until I purchased a CGW Pro Package and dove into YouTube-U for guidance on the install.
I have a 75D on the 10 day background hold and an SP01 paid for and waiting for its turn at a DROS. I will purchase spare roll pins and change them about as often as I change the oil in my truck... which is more often than recommend.

Pin damage?  Or just a build up oil/crud from shooting and carrying it?  i'd get a tiny little drill bit (smaller in diamter than the hole), insert it and turn it by hand to see if it starts to pull the old oil/crud out. 

The pin is soft enough that pushing it through the pin hole in the slide will move some of that displaced metal back in place to fit through the hole, or break the pin.

I've read here and there that people have had the pin break so completely that the firing pin and firing pin return spring will pop out of the back of the slide when the slide goes to the rear to eject the empty it just fired. 

Others report an inability to fire the pistol, work to get it apart and find broken pieces of the FPRP jamming up the firing pin/firing pin channel.

Good luck with it.  Might not be an issue getting the pin out and new one installed.

[Minfred]

Pin damage?  Or just a build up oil/crud from shooting and carrying it?  i'd get a tiny little drill bit (smaller in diamter than the hole), insert it and turn it by hand to see if it starts to pull the old oil/crud out. 

Upon further review I think the pin is just boogered up with gunk. At this time I do not have a bit small enough to ream it out. Thanks for the help.

[M1A4ME]

I don't mean "ream out" metal from the inside of the pen, just push/auger/dig out the crud.

Compressed air might blow it out (wear goggles/eye protection if you go that route).  Or some brake cleaner with that red "straw" in the nozzle to direct/pressurize the spray (again, eye protection). 

If you try the brake cleaner be sure to let it dry (usually dries in a few seconds) and get some oil back on the metal surface to protect it from corrosion.

Good luck with it.  Wouldn't it be neat, after all those years and rounds if the FPRP was still in good condition?  I've bought brand new CZ pistols, pulled the FPRP while doing mods to the gun and found the FPRP damaged.  I have other CZ's I've carried/shot for years that were torn down for mods and the FPRP would have been fine for another 5 or 6 years.  Just a difference in the combination of the way the parts are made, where they are in the tolerance for dimensions and how the parts fit/work together.

[thedude]

I've bought brand new CZ pistols, pulled the FPRP while doing mods to the gun and found the FPRP damaged.  I have other CZ's I've carried/shot for years that were torn down for mods and the FPRP would have been fine for another 5 or 6 years.  Just a difference in the combination of the way the parts are made, where they are in the tolerance for dimensions and how the parts fit/work together.

They might have spent more or less time in the CZ test box.   

https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxhcjC5U8GgI7bIA6HHBoXeeJSlv5-K2Xx