Matched safties and adj. sear for SP01

[newageroman]

What is the general suggested steps for dropping in a safety to currently built gut with an adjustable sear and SAO conv?

I have an SP-01 with an adjustable sear and a fitted safety. I have a nice new full shelf safety to drop in it. But that tiny set screw is red locktighted in. I have a soldering iron, but does that really work? Also the head of the set screw is flattened a tad but I think I can file it down flat a bit to get the allen key to seat. looking for suggestions. no stranger to the files.

I may end up buying other CGW parts so would it be easier to just get another adj. sear and keep it matched to the safety?
Hope all have a great holiday season!

[no.vale.la.pena]

As far as removing the set screw for the adj. sear, I think it’s pretty much impossible (by design) after red-loctite the high thread pitch and the tiny size of the Allen key mean even if you super heat it the red loctite won’t be able to leak out of the part so you will just be breaking Allen key after Allen key. I’ve tried briefly and it became clear there wasn’t going to be any easy way.

Good news is, for two of my low rd count SP01’s that were fitted for adj. sears to the stock safeties, when I replaced it with another brand new extended safety, no fitting of the new safety was required. I was also running a CGW extra strength detent spring (before and after safety change). When I tried swapping in another, older extended safety that was well worn it was not interfacing with the adj. sear So it likely depends how worn-in the original safety that was fitted to the sear was. Give it try before buying a new sear I would say.

[newageroman]

Thanks for the input/experience.
I asked CJW, they said torch it until the thread lock melts. So I'm off to locate my torch and will try it. In the meantime just for kicks I did try installing in both the SPo1 and Bullshadow. Neither would allow the trigger to reset so I'm on to adjusting somehow.
It seems like the Bullshadow is closer to allowing the sear to release based off the safety so I may just file down one of the new safeties a little and see if it drops. It may just be easier to fit the safeties to the adjustable sear vs. trying to melt the threadlock and reapplying etc..

So I was also having some problems with the SP01 trigger resetting. I thought it was the set screw but it ended up being the mag catch spring that pushes up on the trigger bar was loose. Then I found I have only red locktite and no Blue so its on the way then I should be able to make some more progress getting the 01 running again.

I will say that the wide shelf safety does feel quite nice as a thumbrest and works well by just pushing the thumb joint down and rotating the safety into the On/Off position as opposed to dropping the thumb under the safety and pushing upward with the thumbail side. Test dry fitting it seemed to work well, but could be smoothed out a bit as it did take a bit of pressure/effort.

If I cant get these adj sears to work with the new safety I will just buy a couple more and drop them in. My next project is SAO conversion on 97.

[newageroman]

A bit of midnight smithing because I woke up and was bored.
Blue Threadlocker came in today, used that on the Mag catch spring retaining screw that was loose causing the trigger bar to no hold pressure and reset trigger. All fixed now dry-fire testing. Range testing soon.
I will say that between my eyes getting worse and it being a while since I have been inside a CZ it was a little humbling, but persistence pays off (hopefully)...
A couple of tips worth mentioning.

• I think after all this fumbling with this old build, I'm just gonna test it and leave it as is if it runs.
  
• paper plate/blue towel acetone and Qtip to clean hole
• need a better small flathead screwdriver/tweezers to lift sear spring to be able to remove safety and safety detents
• let the blue locktite dry for 10 mins or so to become more gel like and create less of a mess inside
• I had adjusted the initial takeup of the SAO trigger completely out and forgot how great these triggers feel and giggled at the takeup once it was set.
• using the trigger slave pin for re-install is crucial
• I got the MAPP gas torch from the old place today so I can try melting the red locktite on the sear of the Bullshadow and see if it can be re-adjusted to work with the new wide shelf safety.

[AZ_GunGuy]

• need a better small flathead screwdriver/tweezers to lift sear spring to be able to remove safety and safety detents

I had to deal with that spring on a few of my projects.  The best tool I've found for the task is a bent pick:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B322WQ4F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

[newageroman]

yesss, the bent pick! That will be the ticket!
Update: sear set screw removed, ready for install, Propane torch about 30 secs and noprob. It has a cool rainbo heat treated color on the arm now.
reinstalled the sear cage - took a moment as its been a while. New wide shelf safety went in great. I was able to wiggle under the sear spring. I tried to install and adjust the sear with the set screw but the hammer never would drop. I tried putting the slide on to make sure the trigger reset would "activa properly" or whatever and still no dice. But if you press on the back of the sear just a bit it will release naaaaace...

So what gives? I need to get back to sear/safety vids and see what gives. I could have done something wrong, but everything felt right and my fingers seemed to remember how to get things back together again after a couple tries.

Will poke around and report back, (good news hopefully).

[Tok36]

reinstalled the sear cage - took a moment as its been a while. New wide shelf safety went in great. I was able to wiggle under the sear spring. I tried to install and adjust the sear with the set screw but the hammer never would drop. I tried putting the slide on to make sure the trigger reset would "activa properly" or whatever and still no dice. But if you press on the back of the sear just a bit it will release naaaaace...

So what gives? I need to get back to sear/safety vids and see what gives. I could have done something wrong, but everything felt right and my fingers seemed to remember how to get things back together again after a couple tries.

Will poke around and report back, (good news hopefully).

Do you have an overtravel set screw installed in your Trigger?

   On another note. A good option for wrangling the Sear Spring leg is the plastic tube from a used up can of air. If you put a small bend in the very end of the spring leg, it makes it even easier to grab them. Once you have the tube on the end of the spring it can be used as a handle to move the spring leg around. Upgrading to a metal tube is an option if you are tinkering with CZs often enough because they do not wear out like plastic. They make these things called Glue Applicator Syringe's. They are basically a short metal tube with a wider plastic handle. This is what i use these days but i tinker allot.

[newageroman]

tops props for that trick Tok - why I dig this place.
It DOES have an over travel screw that I haven't messed with yet. I will try that in a bit. If that doesn't work I will put the old safety in for comparision.

[newageroman]

Rumble Link - > https://rumble.com/v1y5jly-cz-75-bullshadowsao-wide-shelf-saftey-install-resetting-the-cgw-sear.html
DONE/FIXED!
it was the over travel screw. A quick adjustment and it started releasing. I then put a dab of red on the tiny screw and let it dry up for about 10 mins. then installed and set it. Put the slide back on to confirm function. Feels great. drying.

used a Q tip and a small string of paper towel to dab up the excess red loctite.
Learned something interesting: changing ONLY the safety would cause the trigger to need a tiny adjustment.

Saving the other wide safety for a 97SAO build. Speaking of it, to save some $$$ I'm thinking about skipping the adj sear and just using the stock sear with a race hammer and this new safety. If all I have to do is assemble safety and then file a tad on that nub until it will fits and will go on safe, it might be worth saving some $$$ for now.

[Tok36]

Glad you got it worked out.

On the safety fitting, more passes is cheaper than a replacement part. Replacement Sears cost around $9, replacement Safety Levers cost more like $35-50.

May the task go smoothly.

[newageroman]

Do are the replacement sears have a good crisp edge by default or would they need touched up to be as good as the CGW? I've never faced a sear and not ready to jump off in all that just yet.

Next disassembly I will try using my old Lucas Gun Oil needle tip to remove the sear spring.

[Tok36]

Do are the replacement sears have a good crisp edge by default or would they need touched up to be as good as the CGW? I've never faced a sear and not ready to jump off in all that just yet.

Next disassembly I will try using my old Lucas Gun Oil needle tip to remove the sear spring.

   It is my understanding that the Sear face dose not make much of a difference. I have touched a few up but not to any noticeable difference. They will smooth themselves out from use on their own anyway. If you take a look at a used Sear this is observable. Being careful not to change the angle of the Sear face is important if you decide to tinker with it. A good point of reference is that CGW dose not sell Sears for decockers. They only Sear they sell is adjustable Sear for the safety models. CZC dose not offer aftermarket Sears either to my knowledge. You would figure if it made a difference they would produce and sell the part.

[newageroman]

Cool, thx for the info
Yep, I was leaning to not touching the sear face anyway.
Basically what I'm hearing is I can just get a nice hammer and fit the current worn in sear to the new safety and still have that amazing break. I'll stick to this plan and spend the extra on a SAO trigger. Pics when it happens...