.............I figure that with the right backing for the right side of the pin and good staking tool that staking would be straight forward. The appropriate backing to avoid damaging the frame is the part that i am least clear on, if it is even necessary. I am used to babying the aluminum frames so maybe the steel frames serve as an adequate backing on their own. If and when i attempt it i will run it by CGW first.
As you can see, the sear cage pin is staked on two opposite sides.
If I were to work on a steel frame decocker, i.e. CZ 75 BD, I will need to get a new sear cage pin, as the old pin will have burrs and scratches when it is removed against the frame.
For re-staking, I will need a flat metal surface so that the frame will not "bounce" when you strike the peen punch against the frame. To retain the new pin in place, it will need to be staked on two opposite sides. (If necessary, use some masking tape on the right side of the frame.) Lastly, when staking, stake the frame, not the pin.
From reading others experiences, i get the idea that most people do not bother with it unless the pin starts walking on them and i have not see any clear follow up on this issue. Another interesting question is why specifically the Sear pins walk when they do. Is it the tightness of the parts in some pistols compared to others or something els.
Like you mentioned, many have reassembled without re-staking, as the sear cage pin is being retained by 1) tension in the sear cage, 2) the decocker lever.
I have always tried to keep everything righty-tighty to eliminate any horizontal cage movement, i.e. installing the extended hammer pin retaining pin. If the sear cage pin is not staked, it might be OK in the short run. However, it might create some loosey-goosey sear cage movement in the long haul
