Striker assembly removed, re-assembled, P10C trigger changes entirely

[SolidSoloDev]

I found one old post on this, linked below:

https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=115057.0

I checked out the striker assembly in one of my P10C's, mostly to get familiar with the platform. I was familiar with Glock so I wanted to see how it differed.

I put the striker assembly back, and the trigger feel/pull has changed almost entirely. Whereas before, out of the box it came with a predictable take up, and clean, smooth break.

Now, the trigger hits a flat, hard wall that breaks much heavier than it did before. I really cannot ascertain why this would happen. Some of the linked topic is pertaining to lubrication in the striker channel, and on the striker assembly itself. I have tried both combinations, clean and dry, and also with some lubrication on it, it won't return the trigger to what it was before.

I will also note that when I pulled it out, it was pretty wet from the factory, though I have done my own cleaning/oiling, I only had about 200 rounds through it at this time. I did not add any lubrication to it when I first got it, and am mostly reading you should not need to.

I went today and put about 250-300 rounds downrange to see if it would smooth back out, and it doesn't appear to be where it was still. What's worse is I have the other P10C to compare it to, and that one is still noticeably smoother, and much less harsh of a break. I'm not sure how to describe it. The one with the better trigger now just sort of 'pushes you through' the wall with a nice crispy break. The other breaks heavy and flat and almost 'snaps' as it breaks instead of a smoth crisp break..

Any ideas as to why this could happen? This has me considering overwatch replacement parts anyway, I wouldn't mind upgrading this one a bit as it does have an RMR on top. The one without an optic is good to go.

You'll notice in the linked post, he measured an increase from 4lb to 6lb, though it looks like he was already using aftermarket parts.

[Wobbly]

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[Joe L]

Try cleaning the striker channel again and make sure he spring retainers are seated perfectly in the spring.  I run mine dry in the channel, no problems.  Make sure the striker safety block piece moves freely in the striker body assembly and that the face is smooth where it comes in contact with the trigger bar. 

If you want to try some different parts, try a Glock 4# spring with Glock retainers on the factory striker.  Next try a CGW striker with the Glock spring and retainers.

I have 3 P-10's all with similar setups and they are very consistent.  I hope you can find the issue in your slide assembly. 

Joe

[Duke Nukem]

It sounds like something didn't get put back like it was (at the risk of stating the obvious!).  Putting a different trigger in there may or may not fix it.  Maybe there is a spring or other part that got reversed or ?  JoeL gives some good advice, and I would carefully take down the problem pistol and the good one next to each other, one step at a time, slowly and methodically comparing every little detail.  Maybe a spring is hooked differently in the one than the other.  Good luck with it, and let us know how it goes.   

[SolidSoloDev]

Try cleaning the striker channel again and make sure he spring retainers are seated perfectly in the spring.  I run mine dry in the channel, no problems.  Make sure the striker safety block piece moves freely in the striker body assembly and that the face is smooth where it comes in contact with the trigger bar. 

If you want to try some different parts, try a Glock 4# spring with Glock retainers on the factory striker.  Next try a CGW striker with the Glock spring and retainers.

I have 3 P-10's all with similar setups and they are very consistent.  I hope you can find the issue in your slide assembly. 

Joe

Thanks for the information Joe, I appreciate it. I will take it down again try to make sure everything is in place perfectly!

[SolidSoloDev]

It sounds like something didn't get put back like it was (at the risk of stating the obvious!).  Putting a different trigger in there may or may not fix it.  Maybe there is a spring or other part that got reversed or ?  JoeL gives some good advice, and I would carefully take down the problem pistol and the good one next to each other, one step at a time, slowly and methodically comparing every little detail.  Maybe a spring is hooked differently in the one than the other.  Good luck with it, and let us know how it goes.   

This appears to be the case.. I am kind of keen to fix this, although, I will say the trigger has now smoothed up some that the differences might be considered 'pedantic' at this point, but still is the difference between a slightly heavier 'wall' vs. the other P10 having a bit more take up and a crisper break as opposed to a 'Snap'.. Still not sure what to think, but I like your methodology you outline for making sure everything is good to go.. I will try that!

[Duke Nukem]

Oh, one more thing you made me think of- people have mentioned going to the local gun store and trying out the trigger on all the P10s and picking the one they feel is the best.  Another way to read that is that you'll normally find some differences between triggers on the same line of guns (at least until broken in).  Did you compare the two triggers before all this came up?

[ppcgm]

That is bizarre. And no one from the factory has chimed in to explain or give you any idea what to try ?
 
Reading that people think a 4 lb trigger pull is good makes me cringe. Maybe that’s good on a duty gun for LE. But coming from a competition shooting background, on a pistol, any pull weight greater than the weight of the loaded pistol is going to make for horrible accuracy as the gun is fighting you the entire time. I bought the P10F “Competition Ready” recently and the trigger is horrible. It’s going for its third range trip today, in hopes that the HB Industries trigger starts to feel half as good as the Powder River trigger in my XDm. But I’m not holding out a lot of hope. The discovery that it was factory sighted for 115 gr bullets isn’t helping my attitude any. I have several CZ .22 rifles that compete well in bench and silhouette matches. So the pistol is quite a disappointment. Please update us with anything further that you learn.

I found one old post on this, linked below:

https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=115057.0

I checked out the striker assembly in one of my P10C's, mostly to get familiar with the platform. I was familiar with Glock so I wanted to see how it differed.

I put the striker assembly back, and the trigger feel/pull has changed almost entirely. Whereas before, out of the box it came with a predictable take up, and clean, smooth break.

Now, the trigger hits a flat, hard wall that breaks much heavier than it did before. I really cannot ascertain why this would happen. Some of the linked topic is pertaining to lubrication in the striker channel, and on the striker assembly itself. I have tried both combinations, clean and dry, and also with some lubrication on it, it won't return the trigger to what it was before.

I will also note that when I pulled it out, it was pretty wet from the factory, though I have done my own cleaning/oiling, I only had about 200 rounds through it at this time. I did not add any lubrication to it when I first got it, and am mostly reading you should not need to.

I went today and put about 250-300 rounds downrange to see if it would smooth back out, and it doesn't appear to be where it was still. What's worse is I have the other P10C to compare it to, and that one is still noticeably smoother, and much less harsh of a break. I'm not sure how to describe it. The one with the better trigger now just sort of 'pushes you through' the wall with a nice crispy break. The other breaks heavy and flat and almost 'snaps' as it breaks instead of a smoth crisp break..

Any ideas as to why this could happen? This has me considering overwatch replacement parts anyway, I wouldn't mind upgrading this one a bit as it does have an RMR on top. The one without an optic is good to go.

You'll notice in the linked post, he measured an increase from 4lb to 6lb, though it looks like he was already using aftermarket parts.

[Grendel]

There is 'no one from the factory' on the forum AFAWK. As for going to a local gun store and pulling the trigger on multiple firearms until you find one you like - I don't think the proprietors are going to like that very much.

[ppcgm]

I think you’re right on both counts. I’ve submitted a request to CZ for help with the sights on the P10F, and will also ask them about a stronger spring for the magazine latch as the magazines were falling out in midstring yesterday.
 
Many years ago when I was building my gun collection and was good friends with a couple of gun counter guys who knew they were going to sell me one gun a month, in keeping with what was then South Carolina (where I no longer live) law, they might have let me compare what they had in stock to see which one I was going to buy. But I suspect most proprietors would just laugh at the idea and shake their heads.

[SolidSoloDev]

I forgot about this post and have since done a few things

I have tried every combination of trigger reassembly possible, with lube, without lube, etc. No changes in the difference in the trigger.

I also received and installed an overwatch precision shoe and np3 striker. While the kit seems great, the kicker is that the trigger is still awful, it feels no different than it did in it's stock configuration. No way it's anything to do with the OWP parts as they're supposed to improve the situation.

One thing that did change however is the problem with the trigger appears to follow the frame now, more than the slide. I can put my unaltered P10C slide on the "bad" frame and the trigger gets worse, and the altered slide on the "good" frame and it gets a bit better.

I still don't know what to do, pretty frustrated at this point as I sort of hate the gun right now. I have put about 200-300 rounds through it now with no notable improvement in the trigger. At this point, it's a bit worse and heavier than my stock Glock 19 trigger, which feels much better by comparison (for what it's worth I don't hate stock glock triggers).


To reiterate, the trigger feels like it hits a solid wall, and has an "all-at-once" heavy break, no roll, no creeping over the break, just a fat, solid, heavy-ish break. It was the same pre and post aftermarket kit installation. Not a single difference. It's not unshootable, but it's also not the trigger I had before I removed the striker assembly the first time, and very odd that I could replace it with parts intended to make the trigger better and it's still bad.

Compared to the other P10C, that one has a smooth break, no heavy wall, and you can pull the trigger slowly and hear it "creep" up towards the final break and it just sort of moves past the break with a nice crispy sound. They aren't the same at all, not even a little bit.

[Togmaster]

See if the trigger safety is touching the frame. I've heard a few people having this problem.

[Whereisit]

Post a vid of you pulling the trigger on both p10's you have. Maybe someone will see something.

[Boskey]

My P-10 F OR had the trigger safety hang or drag along the frame. I ended up lightly beveling the safety at the interference point.  Applied a light amount of grease and let it wear in.  I felt the safety could be replaced more easily than mod on the frame.  Have over 4200 rounds since.

I recently picked up P10c and find I apply side pressure to the trigger and it drags the side of frame opening.  The trigger distance is too short for me and my fingers no longer allow me to get a good straight pull.  This results in a rough,variable action similar what the OP has mentioned. Might be worth looking into.

[Claymore504]

Seems you have tried some good ideas to resolve the issue. At this point maybe put it all back stock and contact CZ to see if they will take it back and take a look?