slide lube for CZ 75 D PCR

[CZombie]

Hello,

Do you recommend grease or oil for a CZ 75 D PCR slide?

Applied sparingly or generously?

Thanks

[MeatAxe]

Hello,

Do you recommend grease or oil for a CZ 75 D PCR slide?

Applied sparingly or generously?

Thanks

I use Slip 2000 gun grease, fairly generously on the rails with a light coating over the EXTERIOR of the entire barrel (not inside the bore) and the bottom of the slide. Will put a small amount anywhere there would be any friction / movement internally. I’ll use a thin coating of light (Slip 2000) gun oil in the bore itself.

Unlike oil, grease stays where you put it and won’t migrate out of the gun by gravity. Slip 2000 is supposedly engineered for machine guns and to repel powder fouling. I’ve never had any issues at all with it. Doesn’t seem to “gum up” at all when inundated with powder fouling.

https://slip2000.com/products/ewg


I would NEVER use “Frog Lube” - that garbage is essentially nothing but coconut oil with wint-o-green flavoring and green food coloring, applied with a hot hair dryer that will go rancid and turn into thick brown sludge that will totally gum up your gun. Apparently, you can eat it, though, not that you’d want to.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

I oil the rails on mine with the same oil I use on the rest of the gun. Never had a problem and never had any adverse wear. My oldest PCR has 35,000 rounds through it now.

[M1A4ME]

I oil the rails on mine with the same oil I use on the rest of the gun. Never had a problem and never had any adverse wear. My oldest PCR has 35,000 rounds through it now.

Same here.  Oil has worked on mine from the first 1911 in 1979 through all the other 1911s, Glock, Browning, Beretta, M&P, FNS, CZ, XD/XDM and M&P pistols.  Zero wear issues.  I will say I have nothing with the round count the previous poster mentioned.

I do clean mine when I shoot them and sometimes between range sessions as they get pretty dirty being carried regularly.

[Wobbly]

Oil. Grease will work fine on hot summer days, but not when it cools off.

[MeatAxe]

Oil. Grease will work fine on hot summer days, but not when it cools off.

I’ve never had an issue with grease, freezing my ass in a deer stand for hours on end. My guns are all perfectly functional and lethal with Slip 2000, well below freezing.

Maybe in the Arctic, where all gun lubricants are discouraged? Not quite an every day thing for 99% of the people.

[Joe L]

Meat Axe--

It kind of depends on how tight the gun is fit and how strong the ammo is.  I have to use oil in the winter in both of my semi-auto .22 pistols instead of Slide Glide Lite grease to get them to cycle reliably.  On my CGW built 97B"E" pistol, same thing, I have to add some light oil to the slide rails and barrel to get it to cycle reliably in the winter.  With the factory 9mm CZ's and bolt guns, I can use light grease year round. 

For a carry or house gun, I tend to use light grease year around if there is little chance of the gun getting cold, just because it stays put and doesn't evaporate. 

But I've never tried the Slip 2000, it could very well be lighter than the Enos lite grease I've been using.  I could probably use 5W-20 motor oil in everything year round and be fine also.  It's only the tight guns and .22's that seem to be sensitive to viscosity changes between summer and winter.  My annual temperature range is 10F to 110F. 

Joe L

[Joe A.]

On my handguns with full length frame and slide rails. I’ll apply a thin layer of Mobil 1 synthetic grease to each rail topped off with 2-3 small drops of Mobile 1 10-40 synthetic oil applied with needle oiler. The gun stays lubed for a very long time.

A small tub of the grease and a quart of the oil lasts practically forever and economical to use.

[CZombie]

Thanks all!

Wobbly,

I was reading the FAQ on gun break in period.  That was helpful. You mentioned one drop of oil on each of the slide rails.  Do you recommend a drop on the corresponding sides of each of frame rails too?

[crc4]

I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil 0-40, and Mobile 1 grease mixed at a ratio of 6 to 1. Using a paint paddle with an electric drill, it mixes well enough like an emulsion to keep the qualities of both oil and grease. A quart of oil and a tube of grease will last several lifetimes.

For bigger jobs, it goes into an old-fashioned mustard-ketchup squeezable plastic bottle with a long spout on top, and for most uses a small needle bottle from Brownell's.

I use this mixture on everything from AR15s, to a Garand, to all my pistols and revolvers.

Most of the time after application I use a finger to smear it around on bolts, and a Q-Tip on slides and pistol interiors where friction takes place.

No gumminess, no cast-off - stays put until the next big cleaning using Simple Green Extreme (safe for aluminum) to clean off, then reapply.

Most gun oils and grease are high-priced marketing goods that cost more than a porterhouse steak, but do no better than this concoction.

Spend your money how you wish. But "Magic Super-Duper Gun Oil" is expensive hogwash.

[MeatAxe]

Thanks all!

Wobbly,

I was reading the FAQ on gun break in period.  That was helpful. You mentioned one drop of oil on each of the slide rails.  Do you recommend a drop on the corresponding sides of each of frame rails too?

Make sure you clean all the cosmoline out of your pistol before you shoot it. I generally toss field striped new pistols in a bucket of Hoppes #9 and let it soak and dissolve all that crud overnight. Of course I remove the grips and plastic parts first and keep any night sights above the surface of the solvent.

CZ’s In particular come swimming in cosmoline / packing grease from the factory.

[Wobbly]

Wobbly,
I was reading the FAQ on gun break in period.  That was helpful. You mentioned one drop of oil on each of the slide rails.  Do you recommend a drop on the corresponding sides of each of frame rails too?

Not needed. Modern synthetic automotive oils "migrate" like crazy. By that I mean the oil travels to the places it's needed. Moving parts develop some heat, and the oil loves tight places with any heat.

Hold the slide in a semi-vertical position so that gravity works with you. Place one drop on each of the "female" slide rails and it will run down the natural gutter. Then, when it's offered to the receiver, the oil will be pushed to the end.

One drop in the sear cage and when you come back after 200 rounds every part will be lubricated.

All viscosity grades of any modern synthetic motor oil will work. There's nothing "magic" in 0W20 versus 10W30. Whatever your car is uses will be great in your metal CZ.

Sometimes this is referred to as "running wet" because the oil is so tenacious and its tendency to migrate will soon give the bulk of the pistol (inside and out) a glossy, wet appearance.

Hope this helps.

[MeatAxe]

Meat Axe--

It kind of depends on how tight the gun is fit and how strong the ammo is.  I have to use oil in the winter in both of my semi-auto .22 pistols instead of Slide Glide Lite grease to get them to cycle reliably.  On my CGW built 97B"E" pistol, same thing, I have to add some light oil to the slide rails and barrel to get it to cycle reliably in the winter.  With the factory 9mm CZ's and bolt guns, I can use light grease year round. 

For a carry or house gun, I tend to use light grease year around if there is little chance of the gun getting cold, just because it stays put and doesn't evaporate. 

But I've never tried the Slip 2000, it could very well be lighter than the Enos lite grease I've been using.  I could probably use 5W-20 motor oil in everything year round and be fine also.  It's only the tight guns and .22's that seem to be sensitive to viscosity changes between summer and winter.  My annual temperature range is 10F to 110F. 

Joe L

Though Brian Enos is a renown gun guy, is he a chemical engineer? His gun grease is touted as being “stringy” (looks like a wax) which is totally different than Slip 2000, which is more like a thin axel grease. All I know is that it works much better than all forms of gun oil I’ve used over the decades, in all weather and conditions. And it functions well dirty, after multiple shooting sessions, which is good for me since I’m not overly anal about gun cleaning.

I’ve probably tried most gun lubes available at one time or another. Some are usable, some are hot garbage, like “Frog Lube.” I’m not afraid to try new products to find something better and I’m not looking to stake my life on something just because it’s cheap. Does motor oil “work”? Sure. Is motor oil formulated to deal with powder residue? Probably not.

But you guys do you. Hell, there are a lot of folks stuck on Ballistol 120 years on. It works, obviously. I’d it still the “best”? Probably not. Hell, Joe Biden surrendered to the Taliban who were using used motor oil and knotted shoe laces to clean their AKs.

Time marches on and so does technology. Don’t be afraid to try something new. Some are duds but others are home runs.

https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/gear-review-slip-2000-extreme-weapon-grease/amp/

[Born2vette]

I was taught a long time ago that if it slides use grease, if it rotates use oil and a highly regarded 1911 builder said ti use TW25b.  Its a little pricey but a little goes a long way and I have had my current tube for 3-4 years. For oil I have a big bottle of Hoppes I have had for ever and everything rums smooth for me.

One thing I know for sure is if you get 2 gun guys talking about lubrication you will have 4 arguments! Lol

[Joe L]

Though Brian Enos is a renown gun guy, is he a chemical engineer? His gun grease is touted as being “stringy” (looks like a wax) which is totally different than Slip 2000, which is more like a thin axel grease. All I know is that it works much better than all forms of gun oil I’ve used over the decades, in all weather and conditions. And it functions well dirty, after multiple shooting sessions, which is good for me since I’m not overly anal about gun cleaning.

Ok, ok, I have some on order.  Should be here tomorrow.  Didn't mean to rile you up!   

Joe L