The sear hardness is critical to holding the edges of the angles you stone; it is the same as the 1911 sear or any other high end product. Our sears are machines from drop forged barstock steel, no MIM or castings. You cut the angles after the sear has been hardened. The sear is oversized in all dimensions and needs to be fitted to the cage, and the thumb safety. This takes about 45min to one hour to do it properly. The pre cut nose angle can be used as is or altered for a wide range of trigger pull weights. When mated with your hammer the sear yields about a 1 pound pull that is extra crisp, this is due to your extremely low hammer hooks height and the elevated sear bed. This is with the stock spring and before deburing and polishing all the parts and frame and slide. It is easy to add weight to the pull by stoning the sear nose angle to a more neutral or negative primary angle and reduce the secondary angle, you can also cut the ser bed down a few thousands to get taller hammer hooks.
I have seen many battered OEM sears with less then 15000 rounds through them, the base metal is way too soft, in fact CZ OEM sears are the softest sears I know of. I have been in business for 20 years now and have seen and worked on almost every gun on the market and CZ sears just do not hold up as they are only surface hardened. So if you stone past a few thousands of material you are now into the soft base metal. It seems odd that CZ does this as their metallurgy with the frame slide and most sub components is extremely good, just not the hammers or sears.
Think of the Miossi Gun Works Custom Hard Sear as the Wilson or Ed Brown "Bullet Proof and Hardcore" sear for the CZ. In fact if you look at the 1911 selection of quality sears the hardness in between 50C and 55C on the following manufactures: Wilson, Brown, Nowlin, C&S, EGW, Dlask, Keonig, Maryland Gun Works, and a few others of the top quality manufactures.
CZ hammers are the same way, very soft, thats where the Angus hammer comes to the rescue, it has better metallurgy then the OEM hammer although I wish it were about 10C harder. However it is not nearly as important that the hammer is as hard because the area that susceptible to battering does nit have critical angles, the hammer hooks should be square, flat and cut to exactly 90 degrees to the sear and the contact area on the hammer is much larger and is not as susceptible to deformation.
Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to touch on the main points and compliment Angus on his exceptional line of quality products at the same time.
Jim
Miossi Gun Works LLC
702 Park Dr
Monticello, IA 52310
319 465-1911
