Ported barrel on Phantom . . PICS!!

[PTGT_Neon]

Here's the new ported barrel for the SP-01.  I haven't fired it yet.  Here are some pics.

[PTGT_Neon]

More pics of the barrel.  The photo comparison between the two riflings show that the EFK is twisted in the opposite direction.  The original is on the left, the EFK is on the right.

[PTGT_Neon]

I noticed a few other things about the new barrel.  There is a small groove at the slide stop bend that permits the slide to lock at the disassembly location.  If the slide is moved slowly, it locks there.  If it moves quickly, it operates normally.  I guess I'll see how this wears on the slide stop.  It's a very well-thought and subtle feature. 

If it turns out that the groove wears the slide stop too much, or causes a failure to load, then I can smooth it down.

The chamber doesn't appear to seat at the top of the slide. But it is properly aligned.  There is just less material at the top when compared to the original barrel.

[PTGT_Neon]

I took it to the range.  It works. 

[CZMania!!1!]

What is the purpose of a "ported" barrel?

[PTGT_Neon]

Almost 300 views and one reply!   

The openings at the top are called a compensator.  They're also called a muzzle brake.  Because the recoil occurs above the hand, the slide assembly pushes back and causes the wrist to rotate and the muzzle points up.  One could use a lot of muscle force to dampen the effect.  The compensator uses the openings at the top to eject compressed gases out the top causing the barrel to not flip up so violently.  The result is not having to muscle the grip so much to get the second shot on target.  The second shot lines up with the target much sooner and a second shot can be had much more quickly and accurately. 

The CZ Champion has a compensator built in to the barrel and slide assembly. 

The only thing that bothers me is the direction of twist is different.  And the rate of twist is less.  That may require heavier bullets than the 124 gr the original barrel was designed for.

[pitbull]

What can I say, the new barrel looks great. Let us know how it shoots when you take it to the range and run more ammo through it. Good shooting and good luck with your new ported barrel.

[mountaincoulee]

I enjoyed those very crisp and well thought out pics when you first posted them.
 
There seems to be more metal in front of the chamber on your new barrel than on stock - probably a good thing in case a loading mistake occurs.

Let us know how this ported barrel tames the recoil impulse, and how it wears into your upper and lower.

[PTGT_Neon]

Sure thing.  mountaincoulee, there is more metal in front of the chamber like you said.  I'm not sure why CZ thought it necessary to shave off what they did.  Maybe I'll find out :-)  I took it to the range not long after I got it.  The recoil flip was significantly less and it was much easier to line up and shoot the second shot.  My shooting rhythm sounded and felt much faster.  I have to completely rethink my grip though.  It's a not a huge deal to me since I'm still new to shooting and I haven't yet developed a solid muscle memory for it.  My fliers were much much closer on target, but the group was larger than what I wanted to see.  I'll just have to practice with it some more.

I'm going to play around with lightening the trigger return spring and removing the firing pin spring lifter when the parts arrive later next week.  I plan on buffing down some of the internal parts while I'm in there.

I'm having fun with this.  I do something to it and see a difference and it inspires me to try something else to see what happens. 

[PTGT_Neon]

Another thing I did was create my own progressive recoil spring.  I cut about 1.5" of the 18 lb flatwire spring and butted it up against a nylon bushing and a cut 14 lb spring.  It works like the progressive springs seen in some coilover suspension springs in cars where two springs are stacked together.  The first 1.5" spring and the bushing stay in the front of the slide so it doesn't bump into the slide (like if they were reversed).  It's doing what I want so far.  The slide doesn't crash into the frame.  And it isn't a pain to pull.  I thought it was a simpler and more logical design than the other two recoil suppressors on the market.  I've tried the 11#, 14#, 15#, 16# and 18#.  With the 11# spring, the slide crashed into the frame violently.  The 14# was better, but it still crashed a bit.  The 15# or 16# are probably the best compromise.

[mountaincoulee]

Interesting.

What tips you off that the slide is crashing into the frame as the gun cycles?

I was wondering about that so with the gun disassembled, I put the slide next to the frame and it looks like they come very close together at full recoil - likely making full contact. But I don't hear or feel anything to confirm.

So I put some gun grease on the front of the frame recoil boss (the flat square part of the frame above the trigger), hoping to somewhat cushion the blow. I use the same grease in the barrel's tilting slot, hoping to cushion the pin that keeps everything together (otherwise known as the slide release lever pin).

[PTGT_Neon]

I feel a jolt in the web of my hand at the apex (the end when its furthest back) of the recoil.  Marking that area with grease isn't a bad idea.  I might put some Prussian Blue on it to see if it marks. 

I've played around with the lubricant a bit.  I started off by using just Mobil1 synthetic grease.  It's great stuff.  I started a thread on it a while back.  But I was concerned that the thin film of grease was too little.  So I added Amsoil synthetic over the grease.  Why Amsoil?  It was the easiest to reach.  I also like Mobil1 and Valvoline but haven't tried those on the gun yet.  I doubt I would notice a difference between any of those synthetics.  I like the combination of a fine layer of grease and oil on top.  They mix together without getting runny and seem to do their job and stay put.  I did drip a little too much oil in there and now its always seeping through the decocker and trigger.  So the advantage of oil is that is permeates through everything.  The problem with oil is that it permeates through everything.     I'm generous with the lube and the gun stays pretty wet.  It's really easy to wipe clean.  In one of the barrel pics a leftover dab of the red synthetic grease can be seen on the feed ramp. 

the grease I put in a cleaned out whiteout container and the oil is in an eye dropper container.  this way I can take it with me in a convenient manner.

[PTGT_Neon]

It's kinda like Legos . .

I pulled out the firing pin safety block and was so impressed by the new trigger feel I got inspired to try a few other things.  I replaced the firing pin safety block lever with a custom spacer.  This shortened the trigger reset maybe 1/16."  I replaced the trigger with a stainless trigger.  I reshaped, shortened and sculpted the trigger to fit the gun and my finger.  The trigger return spring was bent to reduce trigger pull weight.  In the pics below, the original and new trigger have their respective trigger springs.

It took me about an hour to master the assembly of all the little bits and pieces.  It's a lot harder than it looks!  I also have a greater appreciation for the design.

the eye dropper is a container of synthetic motor oil and the white out container is full of synthetic grease.

It's not a hair trigger, but it the SA is light and smooth!  I can't believe its not butter!  lol!  The long DA is still some work since it compresses a 16 lb hammer spring.  The new trigger doesn't pinch the bottom of my finger and it looks really pretty with the stainless barrel.

[Artist]

Thanks for the great post. I had been thinking about picking up a ported EFK .550 OD for my Shadow. Thing is the Shadow is so accurate I wonder if it will be worth it in the long run. I do have to say it is pretty as all get out on your Phantom!

[PTGT_Neon]

Thanks!  I wonder if you could order a ported barrel with a tighter twist than OEM.  That should help lighter rounds group closer.  It's worth a phone call at least