Magazine rattle

[hbarnett1]

Hello Everyone,Does anybody know if it is normal for a magazine to rattle when loaded?I can only get 9 rounds in it,but I think it holds 12.It looks like there is room for a couple more rounds,but I cant get any more in it.And then when you carry it,it rattles quite loudly.Thanks,,,, 

[NVCZ]

Rattling doesn't sound right, I assume you mean when loaded AND inserted? I don't have that problem with my 82. May need to replace magazine brake? Or if you are holding the full mag in your hand and shake it, does it rattle? Do you have any problems with feeding when you shoot?

How well does it insert and drop out? Securely or with a little slack? When inserted can you wiggle the mag around? Feel sloppy when inserted?

The mag you have may be a 12 rounder standard. Buy an Uplula loader, they work on 82's, the mag may be a little small and the Uplula may not fit tight over mag, but they do work. And works well.

NVCZ

[hbarnett1]

Thank you very much for the info.The magazine fits perfectly in the gun.It is not loose whatsoever.You push the mag drop button,and it drops right out,like it should.I haven't had any feeding problems with it either.It is just kind of annoying,the rattling sound when you walk.It kind of sounds like you are smuggling a bag of marbles or something.I guess I'm just going to have to buy me another mag or two.Do you know of any online sources where I could find a mag for my 83,where it won't cost me an arm and a leg.Thank's again for the information,Happy shooting to you,and take care.

[NVCZ]

Just curious, what are you carrying your 83 in when you are out and about?

Right now, mags will cost an arm and leg, TacticalGunArmory.co, Midway.com, JGSales.com are all running $35-$45+. Almost cheaper to order a gun with 2 mags and throw away the gun and keep the mags. When I think that I paid $200 for my 82 with 2 mags (and a "holster") the mags are worth $60-$90, my gun is worth what, $110-$140? lol.... Mags are worth a gun almost. But I really love my 82, it also made me get a CZ PCR, can't wait to shoot that. But I digress...

post a WTB here, and check GunBroker for anything.

Good luck, Merry Christmas,

NVCZ

[dundeal]

I have two magazines with mine, one that seems brand new, one that appears to have been issued with the weapon ('86). I fill them both with 12 rounds, rather easily-- I've heard complaints about the last two rounds being a nightmare, a li'l stiff but not a problem I've encountered. Have never had a prob with chambering or ejections. Here goes... the new one full and you could put it in a paint shaker and wouldn't hear a thing. The old one? Fill it up, give it a shake, and there's a rattle. My assessment is that there's been a few hundred rounds through it, at least, and it's just worn the inside of the mag enough to let the stacked rounds move a millimeter or so foreward and back. I looked in through the ports at front and back, and that's how they move: ever so slightly foreward to back. Haven't had a prob, and figger if it ain't (or don't act) broke, don't fix it.

[hbarnett1]

Thank you for your input,I think you are probably right about why there is a rattle,thanks,,,,

[Lowrider]

Hi.  I just registered, so let me first say "Hello" to everyone.  I've owned two CZ 83's. Both were supposed to be new-in-box, but I can only swear for sure that one was. Of the four magazines, all rattled with .380 ammo, regardless of ammo brand.  I researched, and found a discussion of the issue (I think it may have been posted in this forum).  The answer was that some CZ 83 magazines--new or old--rattle.  As far as I have found, reliability is not affected.  The rattling was attributed to various causes, including magazine lips that were bent in too much or too little, followers that were too wide or too narrow, and defective magazine springs. The cause that I found most compelling was that the magazines were designed to accommodate variations in cartridge (esp. case) dimensions.  This meant that ammo with smaller dimensions fit more loosely in the magazine; hence, the rattle.  In my case, the rattling occurred when the magazines were most full and the cartridges would be under most compression (and positioned most securely), so I didn't think that a tired spring was at fault. As near as I could determine, the area of rattle was at the uppermost portion of the magazine, just below where the follower would be in an empty magazine.  This might explain why some reported that adjusting the upper portion of the magazine eliminated the issue.

[IowaCZ]

Hello to All;
I am a newbie here and new to CZ's.
However just picked up my CZ 83 two days ago, gave it a thorough cleaning last night, but have not fired it yet.
Mine came with 2 mags, NIB. They both rattle quite a bit when loaded. I disassembled both mags, cleaned, reassembled, compressed the spring using a cleaning rod many times and it seemed to move freely within the mag. I also thought the rounds were hanging up on the front lip of the magazines when I tried to hand empty them. I loaded the mags and cycled them through the pistol many times, did not have any hangups, but the mags still rattle. I dont understand how the rounds could rattle in the clip when they are under pressure from the spring.

[IowaCZ]

Can't Wait to get out and put some rounds through her!

[Lowrider]

IowaCZ: If a magazine is designed to accommodate both 9x17mm and 9x18mm ammunition, there necessarily will be greater clearance within the magazine when the 9x17mm ammunition is loaded.  The magazine spring limits vertical movement of the cartridges, but is less effective in limiting their horizontal movement.  Hence the rattle when the 9x17mm cartridges are used. Because the interior dimensions of the magazine vary (top, middle and bottom) as does the spring tension under different compression, the rattle likewise varies with the amount of ammunition loaded.  In my experience, all is quiet until about the eighth round is loaded

By the way: If you are in the habit of removing the grips each time you clean your handgun, you may wish to invest in some extra screws. Some of us have found that the heads of the grip screws deform with relative ease, that the grip screws sometime have to be drilled out, or that the frame sometimes needs to be re-tapped to allow for the use of more robust and more easily available grip screws.

[IowaCZ]

Lowrider, thanks for the explanation and note on the grip screws. I took the grips off this time only to wipe off the packing oil as it just came out of the shipping wrap. Normally I wouldn't do this.

[NVCZ]

ahhh yes, the grip screws....

Anyone have suggestions for suppliers for grip screws, slot/phillips/hex/black/stainless, etc...?

thanks,

NVCZ

[Lowrider]

First, I'm going to come to the defense of those darned Phillips head screws.  They do serve a purpose.  When I studied to be an auto mechanic (actually got an Associates Degree in Applied Auto Technology) they taught us when and how the Phillips head screws first became popular.  It was in the auto industry.  Among their advantages, a Phillips head screw will better retain the driver, so there is less chance of slippage and damage to the adjacent material.  It also is easier to align the driver with the screw, and the shaft of the driver can be narrower and more easily fit within the recess wherein the Phillips head screw is placed.  These are significant. The solution, in my opinion, is not to replace a poorly made Phillips head screw with a slotted or Allen head screw; but to replace it with a better made Phillips head screw, of proper dimensions.  That's a tall order.  The choices appear to be: buy some more of the OEM Phillips head screws and replace at the slightest appearance of wear; re-tap with a more commonly available and more robust thread and screw (such as for the M1911); and, among other things, buy slotted screws (e.g., Hogue).  Each has advantages and disadvantages.

In theory, the grip screws for the CZ 83 and the CZ 75 are the same. You may find various places that advertise replacement screws for the CZ 75.  Oddly, however, though the OEM Phillips head grip screws from my CZ 75 BD fit my CZ 83 with relative ease, some of the aftermarket screws for the CZ 75 BD (e.g., Hogue slotted) fit my CZ 75BD easily, but were not quite as easy a fit in the CZ 83. I figure that there was a greater tolerance in the frame of the CZ 75 BD than in the CZ 83 or perhaps the threads within the frame of the CZ 83 were intentionally treated to make it more difficult for the grip screws to back out during use.  HOWEVER, a big negative of the slotted screws is that, to avoid damage to slots, you need to use a driver that is 3/16" or thereabouts; but when you do so, you run the risk of reaming the grip material in the recess wherein the screw is inserted.  Hence, the Phillips head screws and narrower driver.  So be careful if you do go with slotted screws rather than Phillips.  

Anyway, I purchased slotted screws from both Midway (Hogue-advertised for CZ 75) and from Grips4U (advertised for CZ 83).  Both vendors were polite, courteous and genuinely interested in customer satisfaction.  However, in the case of Grips4U, I ended up not using their screws.  Pitch-wise, they were as good as the Hogue slotted screws that were advertised only for the CZ 75.  However, the slots were another story.  They were too thin to accommodate the thickness of any of my six 3/16" slotted screwdrivers or any of my metric equivalents.  The choice was either to use a 1/8" slotted screwdriver to avoid reaming the grip recess, but risk damage to the screw head or to file down one of my 3/16" screwdrivers until it fit within the slot, but risk reaming the grip recess.  What to do?  I ended up appropriating OEM Phillips head grip screws from my CZ 75BD for use in my CZ 83; I then used the Hogue slotted screws in my CZ 75BD. So, if I were to offer advice, I would suggest you just get a few extra OEM grip screws for the CZ 83 (or OEM for the 75), and make sure that you remove each time with a proper fitting Phillips head screwdriver (In standard size, a No. 2 seems to fit better than a No. 1).

The last couple of points to note: There are somewhat difficult to see rubber bushings ("O" rings) within the OEM plastic grips through which the grip screws go. Take care not to lose, damage, etc.  As near as I can figure, they are needed for the OEM plastic grips, but perhaps not for some aftermarket grips.  If you're going to order some extra OEM screws, maybe you should pick up some of the bushings. Some folks find that the OEM grip screws tend to back out, and recommend using Loctite or similar.  I am in the opposite camp. I am almost inclined to believe that part of the difficulty in removing the OEM screws from the CZ 83 is due to the fact that either they already have some thread compound on them or in the frame's threads, or may be intentionally deformed to make it difficult to come lose during firing.  What I did was to take a brass brush and gently "clean" the threads of the screws to make it easier to install and remove. I likewise thoroughly cleaned the frame's threads and lubed with oil. I would rather have a screw come loose than damage the frame threads or have to use a bit to drill through a stripped screw.  

I am not an expert in such things, of course, but only wanted to share my thoughts.

[NVCZ]

Lowrider, thanks for the discourse, quite helpful.

I am looking for gripscrews for my 82. The original OEM screws for mine are slotted.
The slots are thinner than usual and the metal like many otherrs are soft and head slots do strip/damage easily.

That is why I am asking for some references for suppliers for other screws, yes Phillips first choice, since if I needed to remove grips in the field, it would be more likely to find Phillips over hex. Hex is my second choice.

Also for others not familiar with LocTite, there are different types for different applications.
First put LocTite on the threads of the screw, not in the screw hole.

Second, only use Red LocTite if you want a permenant bond (or almost permenant, it is VERY difficult to break free, you will likely strip screws. So not recommended for grip screws or scope rings. Trust me on that...

For such things as grips and scope rings, use BLUE LocTite which is made for assembly and disassembly of parts.

So back to my original question, is CZ the best supplier of quality grip screws?

Thanks,

NVCZ

[prm]

I have 4 new Mec-Gar mags and they all rattle.  I have found that they only do it every other round???  One less or more and it stops.