Disassemble the Phantom
This is an informative page only. I'm showing all the dangerous things I do with my dangerous toys. I am not responsible for the actions of others.
Basic working space. A hammer and one 2mm punch and 3mm punch. A simple piece of plywood with some holes drilled through it laying on the floor is what I use.
First I want to show the P-01 slide stop in the Phantom. It doesn't protrude. Of course this means I need a tool (philips head from swiss knife) to pop it out.
The two slide stops side by side.
I cut back the bulbous end a bit to make some clearance for the slide. It fit without, but it looked really tight.
Remove the mainspring:
I am currently using a 15 lb main spring with extended firing pin for reliable operation.
Lift the sear spring with a small tool and pull the decocking lever out.
Next, knock out the 2mm pin:
2mm trigger pin:
3mm hammer pin:
pins out:
Note the trigger return spring is about 85 degrees. 90 seemed too weak.
Action assembly pulls right out. Wait! Is this a Tokarev? HA! Not even close!
Open Pandoras box and push the pin out. It just pushes out. no need to hammer it:
Here's the mess:
You'll notice there isn't a firing pin block lifter. That's my choice. CZcustom sells a spacer that takes its place.
Here's my iteration of the sear angle business:
I forgot to photograph the contact area where the trigger bar meets the trigger bar return spring. The trigger bar spring contact area on the trigger bar should be polished pretty smooth so that there isn't any creep during take up.
Also, notice the strut that goes through the main spring (hammer spring). I sanded the corners smooth so the DA is smoother. It works. the spring doesn't make popping noises as I pull the DA. The mainspring plug can also be tapered and polished on the inside to reduce the popping of the mainspring. All this helps. It really does. The Phantom seems much more sensitive to the quality of friction surfaces that my other steel bodied CZ.
Do what this photo says. It is very wise.
I have modified my sear and decocker springs:
This not only improves trigger pull a great deal, but it also eases the assembly quite significantly.
Polish the contact areas or God kills a kitten!
The hard part!
Put it together like how it is in the picture. Fat stubby fingers need not apply. This can be very frustrating the first time. Pay attention to how the decocking lever thingie is positioned. If you get it wrong and assemble the whole thing, its all got to come apart again. Get that right first. then put the sear in, then slide the decocking lever spring in there. Don't worry about getting the spring sprung. Sprunging the spring will occur later.
Get that sear spring in there! Easier said than done.
Continue through to the other side (spacer in place of firing pin block lifter):
Replace the pin with a dummy pin. I think this was once the trigger pin. Use whatever works:
Here is the assembly upside down. Note the position of the decocking lever spring. This is not where it is suppose to be. But doing it this way is the easiest way.
Now use a tool (I use the small blade from my pocket knife) to pull the leg of the spring around the leg of the decocking lever.
note the position of the spring leg. Again, easier said than done.
Assembly sequence. Do it right and you get a cookie:
Push the rounded end of the pin in first. That's what it's there for.
Replace the 2mm and 3mm pins:
This is how do the trigger pin. I knock the pin in place just a little bit. This way I can hook the trigger return spring onto it and then hammer it back in:
Cake:
And that's all there is to it!
I'll come back with some more tidbits on stuff later.
