Author Topic: Comprehensive trigger tips/fixes thread  (Read 7284 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

ndeeya

  • Guest
Comprehensive trigger tips/fixes thread
« on: November 18, 2002, 04:52:03 PM »
hi all,

just wanted to make a thread only for tips/tricks and links to other helpful threads pertaining to improving the trigger pull and break for the CZ100.

PLEASE READ THESE SIMPLE RULES BEFORE YOU POST:
-Please don't post unrelated replies
-Praise, comments, criticisms should be posted in another thread.

THANKS!

how to post a link


i will start:

-= DL's trigger break fix =-

andy's trigger pull fix with pictures

-andy

ndeeya

  • Guest
Comprehensive trigger tips/fixes thread
« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2002, 05:17:16 PM »
UPDATE

just got done improving the trigger BREAK.  must have shaved at least 2 lbs from the break.
i even accomplished this without major disassembly of the gun.

Here's what u need:
-narrow metal file.  MUST BE NARROW!
-1500 grit sandpaper

Here's what i did:
-field strip the gun
-disassemble the firing pin assembly according to the instructions in the manual.
-using the file, SLIGHTLY round off the claw on the firing pin
-polish rough surfaces with sandpaper
-reassemble, test fire, repeat if necessary.

-next is where the narrowness of the file comes into play.
-while the trigger bar is still in the gun,
-use the file to take a LITTLE off the top of the claw on the trigger bar.
-reassemble, test fire, repeat if necessary.

NEW ADDITION (PICTURE BELOW)



cheers,
-andy

ndeeya

  • Guest

Cossack1

  • Guest
Comprehensive trigger tips/fixes thread
« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2002, 02:35:45 PM »
ndeeya, hello!

This eraser thing really works! It just looks so temporary though, the one I made kind of looks like a slipper tho', and it took me about 1/2 an hour to make with swiss files and razor blades etc. I have pics my buddy took with a webcam, not as good as your pics as far as quality, but you can get a good idea of the trigger stop. I can send them to you.

email:   trab2000@email.com

I have to fashion a new trigger stop now because after doing some of the "claw" work on the firing pin and all, the break is just a little bit sooner and my stop needs to be thicker.

EDIT by ndeeya:
here are the pics!


Walt-Sherrill

  • Guest
Comprehensive trigger tips/fixes thread
« Reply #4 on: December 13, 2002, 08:05:19 AM »
You can do the same thing with a  hard white eraser from one of the ballpoint pens you find, form time to time.  Harder and more durable.   Color it with a magic marker. Attach it with Super Glue.  It sticks up like a litlle pimple, but does the job, and is much easier to fashion. And you really don't even notice that its there.

(This is called the "White Trigger Stop" by Kel-Tec enthusiasts, who have been using it for years to improve the trigger cycle of the Kel-Tec P-11.  That's where I learned of it.)

My gunsmith fashioned one for a S&W Model 64 that I have (he did it before I bought it) by tapping the trigger, and screwing a small round-head bolt into it.  He cut down the bolt head until it was flat and the proper heighth, and then lock-tited it in place.  Looks like it came from a custom shop, very effective, and it will NOT come loose.

ndeeya

  • Guest
Comprehensive trigger tips/fixes thread
« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2002, 08:20:44 PM »
here's some pix of my trig stop.

Click here for Pictures (new window)

JAG357

  • Guest
Comprehensive trigger tips/fixes thread
« Reply #6 on: December 17, 2002, 04:23:26 PM »
Been working moly lube and moly grease into all moving parts (upper and lower pieces of the gun) like mad.  This stuff really works well.  I first began to use it in the innards of my revolvers.  I think the real key to smoothing out the trigger pull in the CZ100 is a combination of smoothing surfaces as has been described in the various threads on this forum and using moly lube.  I have found that using jeweler's rouge and a little gun oil to rub the touching parts is superior to using sandpaper.  It takes a little longer to smooth out the parts, but I think it does a better job and gives a more even finish.

Offline bullsi1911

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 309
Comprehensive trigger tips/fixes thread
« Reply #7 on: January 03, 2003, 01:11:11 PM »
I ground off the grooves on the face of the trigger last night and polished it to a nice glass smooth finish.  That along with pulling the firing pin and polishing the outside of the pin, cleaning up the trigger drawbar, etc... has improved the felt trigger pull by about 50%.

Offline steelcased

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 4
Comprehensive trigger tips/fixes thread
« Reply #8 on: October 15, 2006, 02:49:00 AM »
Pin/block fix: when pulling the trigger on my cz100 there was real bad contact between the rear top of the pin PART 15 and the firing pin block PART 9 to the point the slide would actually move backwards untill the pin cleared it.

 I ramped the top rear of the pin and the bottom front of the pin block. Not a problem since.

With the other fixes above other than the trig backstop the 100 almost has a pull as sexy as a python.

Was going to post a MS paint pick but photo hosting annoys the uRhine out of me.

I dont know how common this problem is but i hope i helped someone.

Thanks for the great forums and info guys.

Offline Old Coastie

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 477
Comprehensive trigger tips/fixes thread
« Reply #9 on: October 15, 2006, 05:34:23 PM »
I am glad you fixed your trigger problem. I just hope you have not created a potentially dangerous situation.

The reason you cleared up your problem was polishing and possible reshaping the bottom front of the firing pin block (#9). The reason your slide was moving rearward had nothing to do with the interaction of the firing pin and firing pin block. What was happening was as you pulled the trigger the cam (#35) was being rotated to the rear by the trigger bar and pushing up on the firing pin block. That happened on both of my 100's also.

Do I understand that you filed a champher on the rear edge of the cutout on the top of the firing pin? If you did and it is deep enough, you may have effectively disabled the firing pin block safety. The rear edge of the cutout on the top of the firing pin must be perpendicular to the axix of the firing pin. It should be straight up and down, not angled. If angled deep enough it might be possible for the firing pin block to ride up the angle and allow the firing pin to go forward without the trigger being pulled. A very unsafe condition.

Just my 2 cents.

Good shooting,

Mike
Just because you're paranoid, it doesn't mean they're not really after you!

Offline steelcased

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 4
Comprehensive trigger tips/fixes thread
« Reply #10 on: October 15, 2006, 09:48:11 PM »
The pin block is still active. The pin will not move forward with out pulling the trigger or pushing the block up manually while field stripped.

 But know looking at it again i dont see how this solved my problem and any other adjustments were made well before this one. Unless there was a bur in the open part of the pin but im sure i would have seen or felt it.

 --===__'=\          \'         \ = the areas lightly filed

The plus side its a flawless trigger, the negative side figureing out y its is now wasnt before


Offline Claual

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 16
Comprehensive trigger tips/fixes thread
« Reply #11 on: October 16, 2006, 08:25:30 AM »
Sorry, I don't understand your question.

Offline cz p100

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 10
  • keepem loaded and ready
Re: Comprehensive trigger tips/fixes thread
« Reply #12 on: October 21, 2012, 12:27:50 AM »
i would like to fix my trigger with some good instructions and pics. :D

Offline 762hurts

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 98
Re: Comprehensive trigger tips/fixes thread
« Reply #13 on: November 16, 2016, 07:29:11 PM »
Same. 2016 and I missed the boat on a tutorial with pics. Sigh