return spring guide

[RSR]

Installation

1. Install recoil spring wire loop onto top cover



2. Install spring to base/back of top cover.  You should be able to to shake the wire loop back down...



3. Pull wire loop ends through the same spring turn:



4. Install locking piece in reverse steps of uninstall. 

Spread wire arms with locking ins pointing out and slide on locking block



Turn locking block 1/2 turn so tips align most of the way.  And ensure that your wire loop is a looped and NOT crossed/binded.  If it's crossed, you should have 1/2 turned the other direction, so now a full turn in the opposite direction.



Slide locking block up to secure.  Ends point in! 

[RSR]

5. Grab spring in your hand.  And then turn top cover clockwise.  Turning the top cover will rotate the fixed recoil post, the recoil wire spring guide, and the locking piece, thereby threading on the spring one loop w/ each turn.
Note: Just had my thumb on the locking piece to secure for the pic.  Don't need it there when turning, just ensure locking piece is pointed in a safe direction...



About 2/3rds of the spring installed -- as you get closer to the end, you'll want to pull threaded spring down away from locking piece to avoid it binding on the top locking piece.



About 90% of the spring installed:



One and one-half loops left to go:



One-half loop left to go:



Installed -- as you can see in the pic, below, the spring likes to stack at the end (why when installing it's good to pull the spring down and have some downward tension on the spring a few inches below the top locking piece, so that not all spring tension is there:



If you don't counteract some the spring tension, this can happen (spring is winding on against top locking piece and binding -- continuing to turn will turn the end of the wire guide and end up popping your top piece and shooting your spring) -- to fix, you might be able to turn counter clockwise to fix, but pulling down the spring manually (both threaded and unthreaded portions of the spring, pull the spring as one piece and don't stretch it out) and refixing the top piece as done at start is a doable backup option too -- much easier to adjust the top locking piece this way than when trying to brute force the spring on with other methods shared:
 


6.  One installed, place the locking piece against floor or table and press down to ensure it functions properly (basically just checking to ensure the wire loop was a loop and not crossed...  (Spring will untwist itself to degree needed during cycling -- and just the thin diameter nature of the wire loop makes it look more twisted than it actually is -- in reality it's more of a wave than a twist due to how the spring is tensioned.)

[RSR]

Hope this helps.  And I do have a few new production spring sets (both regular and chromed recoil, striker, and piston), I've been looking to part with, so send me a PM if interested there.

I also see value in replacing your mag release and bolt release springs as well.  The only new production retail source I'm aware of for these is Czechpoint.  But you'll occasionally see new old stock parts kits ones as well.  Extractor spring is another definite to have, and the disconnector spring doesn't hurt to have on hand either. 

Remember that century guns are built from parts kits and quality and condition of each spring they use will vary in condition as that recoil spring pic especially showed...

[gwvt]

I found this very helpful - thanks! I added this thread to the links sticky.

[audax]

A friend in the Czech Republic mentioned that their soldiers use a bootlace to install the recoil spring. I had to install new springs so I decided to see if I could figure out what they might be doing. Here is my recipe for the "bootlace trick". I think it's faster and easier on the fingers than the Obi method, YMMV.

1. Fold a piece of 550 paracord in half and pull** the doubled cord through the recoil spring.

2. Install the wire loop on the hole at the end of the dust cover guide rod. Spread the jaws of the wire loop and hook them on the paracord loop. Pull the spring down the paracord, over the wire loop, and onto the guide rod.

3. Anchor the paracord on a doorknob or a sapling by tying the ends together with a sheet bend.

4. Making sure the wire loop is not twisted, compress the spring by pulling against the paracord until an inch or so of the wire loop is exposed.

5. Control the dust cover by pressing the end against your body or by pinching the spring between your thumb and forefinger. With your free hand put the retainer on the wire loop a little below the paracord, engaging one of the notches. Press the retainer into the wires with your thumb. As they spread apart the paracord pops off and the retainer snaps into place.

6. Gently release the spring onto the retainer. Done.

** If you have a cleaning kit assemble the 2 rods and the jag. Fit the wire loop around the paracord then spread the ends and hook them into the jag hole. There are slots on the side of the jag that engage the wires just like the retainer does. Slide the spring over the rod and pull the cord through. If you have no tools, put the wire loop around the cord then push it as far into the spring as you can. By compressing and releasing on opposite ends of the loop you can "walk" it up the spring in a couple of minutes.
EDIT: Just use a piece of string to pull the paracord through. Fold it in half, attach the wire loop and drop it through the spring. Put the wire loop jaws around the paracord then pull it back through the spring.

[CitizenPete]

For all of the recent purchasers of the Century VZ2008 with the extras and of course all other owners of VZ58 type rifles. I discovered how to use the cleaning tools included with the rifle to reinstall the recoil spring, guide and retainer.

good thinking!,  can you post a pic or two (or a vid) ??

I've used the jag and rod several times with no issues.

[RSR]

Updated picture links to not have full sizes -- unsure why flicrs 640s are coming in at fullsize for some now...

Regardless, audax -- that's an interesting route.  Thanks for researching and sharing.  It does sound like it's probably quicker.  However, the obi method I posted puts no stress on the fingers.  It's gripping strength from hand and just enough to keep the spring from pushing against the locking piece. 
The main issue w/ any method other than obi's that I've tried is that there's a very good chance of spring slipping and retainer and/or spring to go flying. 

CP - I can't say I fully get the cleaning rod trick.  Assemble rod and put wire loop ends into cleaning kit jag cleaning patch loop, slide sling over, and then use the ridges on the jag to try and hold the spring in place?

Also want to reiterate the importance of keeping that wire loop lubricated as it slides over the topcover post.  Definitely seems to take some wear there...

EDIT: audax -- thinking, the shoelace route: so take a flat shoelace or paracord w/ the inner removed.  Loop it through the retainer and slide on the spring.  Grab the ends of the shoelace/paracord and pull them apart, thereby pulling the spring down.  You'd need a third hand most likely and the top cover against the chest, but would probably be easier than finding something to tie to. 
Main challenge here is third hand needs vs w/ just two hands w/ the obi method...

[helpifucan]

For all of the recent purchasers of the Century VZ2008 with the extras and of course all other owners of VZ58 type rifles. I discovered how to use the cleaning tools included with the rifle to reinstall the recoil spring, guide and retainer.

good thinking!,  can you post a pic or two (or a vid) ??

I've used the jag and rod several times with no issues.

Sorry I have been away for quite awhile, I have been very busy at work and with my family. Thank you to CitizenPete for trying my technique. My technique worked for me and I am glad someone else also had success. I will try to post a picture or two to help support my technique. I will say, this problem with the recoil spring was the main reason I joined this forum, and tabbing my bolt carrier.