Need barrel installation tips please.

[JoePfeiffer]

You mentioned

Barrel was pressed in so the transition from the frame's feed ramp to the barrel's feed lip was smooth

.  Looking at the photos, it appears as if the rear of the barrel is lined up with the rear of the chamber area in frame -- is the latter correct, or is it an illusion?

[TuxAir]

I believe when I was done there was a 10 thou difference between the frame's face and the barrel. The barrel is slightly recessed if you will. You can catch your nail on the left side if the frame. The slide does not batter the barrel. My measurements matched those of the old 9x18 barrel. I was however paying close attention to the feedramp transition. There is no lip that could catch a round during chambering.
Clear as mud?

[JoePfeiffer]

Interesting -- I just took a close look at my 82, and near as I can tell the barrel is exactly flush with the chamber.  Also looks like someone may have polished the ramp at some point in the past (and I'll comment that mine seems to like any cheap steel-cased FMJ I put through it, but I have yet to find a JHP it'll feed reliably), though that could well just be wear.

[divn4$]

 I have successfully disassembled the pistol and removed the old barrel. Had to cut the barrel in half behind the bulge in order to remove it.

I had the same thing happen,but I can't get the slide off it gets stuck at the bulge in the barrel.How did you get your slide off?

[big 54r]

looks like you did a good job tux....I have wondered about pressing in a barrel before.

[TuxAir]

Interesting -- I just took a close look at my 82, and near as I can tell the barrel is exactly flush with the chamber.  Also looks like someone may have polished the ramp at some point in the past (and I'll comment that mine seems to like any cheap steel-cased FMJ I put through it, but I have yet to find a JHP it'll feed reliably), though that could well just be wear.

And flush may be the ticket for your pistol. Mine is ever so slightly recessed when you look on the left side (opposite the extractor cutout). Like I said, you can catch your nail on it. It isn't much. To me the feed ramp relationship was more important.

[TuxAir]

 I have successfully disassembled the pistol and removed the old barrel. Had to cut the barrel in half behind the bulge in order to remove it.

I had the same thing happen,but I can't get the slide off it gets stuck at the bulge in the barrel.How did you get your slide off?

I pushed it over the bulge. It was just only a little tough getting through. My workbench has holes in it for dog pegs. I placed the muzzle over one and pushed down. Added a wood block to get it to push further  past the bulge as the frame got in the way. Flipped it over after the slide was lifted up and did it again. Mine went fine. It wasn't too tight that I was worried.

[Monson]

Ok, maybe I missed something, but I've not run into a VZ82 in .380.  All that I've seen are 9mm Mak.  are you sure that the original barrel was .380 or are you referring to the replacement barrel you got from CZ?  Bear with me, I'm old and I'm slow and I only read every third word.

[TuxAir]

It aws 9x18 Mak. Is now .380.

[JoePfeiffer]

Thanks for posting this. Mine bulged its barrel the day after Christmas, and I'm still deciding what to do. Good to have such a clear description of the process of barrel replacement in case I go that route...

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[TuxAir]

Hopefully your slide will come off easily so you can make the repairs. Get a good camera and take pictures as you go. I had a couple of 12 count egg carton trays I numbered and placed the parts in as they came out/off. That made for an easy job of reassembly. On your new barrel, use a sharpie and draw a line from the extractor cutout along the length of the chamber area. It's helpful as you are pressing the new barrel in.
CZ-USA was good on getting the replacement barrel, pin (and a few springs since I had it all apart). I just made the choice to turn mine into a .380 which cut out another caliber (9x18) for me to reload. Dimensionally, the barrels are the same. Make sure your punch is in good shape before you start smacking the barrel pin.

Good luck!

[JoePfeiffer]

My slide is locked up tight. Near as I can tell the barrel will need to be drilled to free the slide...

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[JoePfeiffer]

Once I saw that the barrel moved  a bit by looking in the hole where the pin goes, I used my wood working vise and dogs to press it out. A metal tube was placed over the chamber area for the barrel to slide into and support the frame while I was pressing it out. The bulge in the barrel got in the way so I tapped the barrel in a bit and cut it off. Then I continued to press it out until it became free. After the chamber area is clear of the frame, it moves freely for further removal.

I hope you're still reading this thread!  I'm not quite sure what you mean by putting a tube over the chamber area.  Do you mean behind the chamber area?  Even so, it seems like the barrel is low enough in the frame I don't see how a tube could clear the bottom of it.  I have a tube from a makarov.com barrel press, and when I put it behind the barrel it seems pretty clear it'll block it as I try to press it out...