trigger pull

[hedgehorn]

has anyone figured out how to improve the trigger on the 52's I love the gun but the trigger is allot stiffer than I like. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[Unregistered(d)]

Have your smith slick up all bearing surfaces of the firing pin and firing pin block, this will help some. A replacement firing pin by Harrington disables the firning pin block but reduces the trigger pull a bunch. I installed the Harrington #2 firing pin kit in one of my CZ52's and like it. Made and installed similar pin and plunger for another and it works just as well. Have a third (unissued) which I plan to leave as is...maybe. The kit is a bit pricey at $45.00 but the pistol I put it in is in great shape and I plan to keep it. Makes shooting a lot more pleasant. Hope this helps.

best to you and yours...
ears-

[n-98-Joes]

Maybe it's just me, but I like the stiffer 'military' style trigger.  I shot only .22 target rifle and a few hunting rifles until I joined 'Uncle Sam's Shooting Club'.  So, a stiffer trigger on a pistol is great for me.  The CZ52 (first time on the range today) felt fantastic.  I think I have a better feel for the break than with a light competition trigger.  Though I agree totally that a slicked up firing pin/block would improve the feel.

[IamSonnyD]

Here's another for the Harrington #2 kit...it works wonders and is a breeze to install, as long as you don't have to take the time to radius the extractor..which I had to do.  IMO, it's worth the money if your going to do a lot of shooting.
Regards Sonny

[hedgehorn]

I think I will install the Harrington kit I just cant get used to the pull on the 52. my other handgun is a kimber and the  trigger is light so the pull on the 52 is very different. Thanks for your input. Todd

[n-44-Canon]

The harrington kit is a firing pin that will not break on you but that's it. It will do little to im prove your trigger. It's treated as a big deal to those who have not had their trigger done but to those who have, it's of little importance. To truley improve your trigger, you have to get in to the guts of the gun. Their is no way around that. Fortunatley, you may not have to spend any money fixing your trigger.
 I posted this topic a while back with a visual walkthrough of enhancing the CZ-52s trigger to target pistol quality. We are talking a ZERO creek and ZERO drag trigger that gives S&W revolvers a bad name.

p201.ezboard.com/fczechpi...=339.topic

 BTW.
 Skucera, how did your trigger turn out?

[IamSonnyD]

The Harrington #2 kit definitely improves the trigger, just a firing pin doesn't...but the #2 kit is not just a firing pin
Regards Sonny

[Unregistered(d)]

With the kit, you no longer compress the spring in the firing pin lock. This is quite a stout little spring. The Harrington #2 Firing pin kit took pounds off my trigger pull and inches off my groups. The one I made for another CZ52 (which duplicates the Harrington) does the same. I have one unissued CZ52 which I am leaving as is. I've been out of the buisness for some years, but if I can dig up my old Ohaus trigger pull guage, I'll post a comparison.

[n-44-Canon]

As I said, it creates MINOR improvments that are held of signifficant value only by those who have not tuned their trigger pulls at the guts or haven't had them tuned.
 A properley tuned CZ-52 trigger pull gives S&W revolvers a bad name. Tuned trigger pulls on CZ-52s completley override the firing pin involvment all together, although it is recomended you install the harrington before doing any drag adjustment.
 You know guys, the Harrington fireing pins are actually pretty easy to duplicate. Better yet, the most expensive of them all is the easiest of them all to duplicate. I use cheap scrue drivers to make stainless steel ones that hold up very well.

[Unregistered(d)]

Plunger for the firing pin block is also VERY easy to modify and use as the Harrington firing pin retainer. Just cut the top "notch" off, smooth up bearing surfaces and insert before you insert the firing pin. Made my first pin from Brownells pin stock, it's a little soft but works fine, the stainless screw driver would be a much better choice.

Thanks for the tip, 44Canon

[Paraninja]

44 Canon, could you please elaborate you definition of "creek" and "drag"?  Are you talking about a over travel and grittyness in the trigger pull.  Why glue a peice of plastic to the back side of the trigger instead of drilling, tapping and installing a 4-40 hex screw for over travel.  Or is the goal to not elliminate the little bit of over travel, but to cusion the last mm or so of trigger travel after the sear has broke.  As far as changing the shape of the hammer with a dremel or other rotary tool, I want to say that it could be a bad idea.  Not that I havent used my craftsman on my guns before, and not that replacment hammers aren't available. But is the hammer itself case hardend?  Will changing the geometry of the hammer affect being able to leave the gun cocked and locked?  I'm guessing that by removing the material on and around the hammer hook the position of the sear is cammed in such a way that there is less pretravel or take up before the transfer bar engages the sear.  Not a bad idea but I think a milling machine and a jig would be better suited to get the job done cleanly, not that you couldn't dress the hammer hook up with some 400 then 800 grit emory after.  But then if the hammer is not case hardened the the hammer hook will begin to wear with use, resulting in an inconsistent trigger and a posible negligent discharge.  To smooth out any grit in the trigger pull you could lightly sand and then polish both sides of the transfer bar as well as the area of the frame and side plate that contact it.   Then if you were really bored you could polish the spot on the transfer bar that rides on the hammer pivot pin/screw.  I haven't done that yet.  As far as your claim of a tuned cz52 trigger being better than a S&W revolver, lets not go there.    
Also, I'm curiose as to why you labeled the parts a,b,c,d.. and not ejector, sear, sear spring, and trigger?  I had a hard time understanding your instructions because of this.

[n-44-Canon]

You described creek and drag just as they are.
 If you want to do the machining idea, that is great to, but believe me, the Gorilla glue trick works and holds up and at least with me, it has passed the test of time. My idea and future plan are to completley replace the trigger all together.
 My hammer is very flat in that area and gives S&W revolvers a bad name. I don't cary my gun cocked and locked and never will any gun, but I have had the trigger like that for almost 2 years now and have pulled it thousands of times and is no different now then it was when I first finished it.

[Paraninja]

Would you mind posting a before and after pic of a stock 52 hammer?

ninja

[Walt-Sherrill]

The term is CREEP, not creek.  But you've defined the problem properly.

[n-44-Canon]

I never took pictures of the hammer before it was tuned, but I will be getting a didgital Camera next month and will take pictures of it as it currentley is when I do.

This is a picture of the gun with the trigger job among other things: