Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation

[MDIWeapon]

Does the spring kit improve both DA and SA trigger pull, or just the DA?

Many thanks.

As others have stated above, the spring kit improved the DA pull considerably (it is at least 40-50% lighter as CGW states on their website) and there was a noticeable improvement in the SA pull. With just the spring swap, the SA pull on the Shark-C I was working on dropped to just a hair below 5 pounds. I have not polished up any of the internal parts so it will be a bit better after that. The CGW spring kit is definitely worth the $17 they charge for it. I would expect about the same results in a C100 -- I may have to pick one of those up next week and find out.

[EvilWayz]

Does anyone know if an SRS-1 kit will work in a Jericho 941 frame safety pistol?

[Boriqua]

well I broke it! I was installing the kit but the Mag leaf spring just wouldn't go back to its ordinal position and with very little encouragement it snapped at the bend on the bottom nearest the slide. Now the gun still works properly and I cant see what the leaf spring was supposed to have done. I have a whole bunch of similar thickness spring steel so I can fabricate a new one but ... what is it for and yes I know they put it in for a reason but do I need it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am hoping to take this out to the range on friday.

[jwc007]

well I broke it! I was installing the kit but the Mag leaf spring just wouldn't go back to its ordinal position and with very little encouragement it snapped at the bend on the bottom nearest the slide. Now the gun still works properly and I cant see what the leaf spring was supposed to have done. I have a whole bunch of similar thickness spring steel so I can fabricate a new one but ... what is it for and yes I know they put it in for a reason but do I need it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am hoping to take this out to the range on friday.

The Magazine Retention Spring, which is what I believe you are talking about, can be removed to allow Magazines to drop more freely during a Reload.  I removed them from my old late pre-B Cz75 and pre-Series 88 Tz75's and ran them without issue.  Never put them back in, even prior to sale.

For some Pistols it's just a mechanism cover plate.  It would be helpful to know just what handgun you are working on.

[Boriqua]

Alright I fixed it!!
So I bought this kit
https://cajungunworks.com/product/39250/

For my nifty new T 100

It is not a very complicated install right up until I had to reinstall the mag brake. It is seemingly fabricated of pringles potato chips except it might be a bit more brittle. I DID NOT apply a lot of force and the hook where it goes around the upper pin just broke off. It was way long so I thought I could bend another hook into it but ... it snapped. I found a wonderful video online of a drop free mod for anyone that wants to see it is here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93K__CmQCVU

From what I could gather it is designed in such a way so that the mag does NOT drop free. It puts tension in the form of a leaf spring on the back of the mag. You can certainly run the gun without it but then there is a danger I guess of damaging the hammer spring if you are speed loading mags since there is nothing between the mag and the hammer strut. In my other guns including my P 07 the hammer spring and strut are at least somewhat protected. I kind of like that little bit of tension so I designed my brake with just a bit of flex instead of going completely flat but you can certainly pull that crappy mag brake out and use flat steel of the proper thickness.

Years ago a friend gave me a giant spool of thin spring steel that he uses in his industry and I have been happily cutting out my thumb breaks from it for the few holsters with thumb breaks I get asked to do. It is 3 inches wide and the spool will get passed down to grandkids and was used in industrial garage doors. It is very tough, very springy, easy to grind on with a dremel wheel but not easily bent into tight radius's. Its really nice steel and kills anything I can buy as ready made thumb breaks.

I managed with some real effort to get a nice tight bend for the pin at the bottom and I am calling this an upgrade ... especially since its gold! 





Other than that  .. double action is AWESOME and trigger pull from half cock is just amazing now compared to what it was. Without overselling it ... from the half cock feels as good as MANY guns I have had shooting in single action. I dont have a scale but it really does almost feel single action from the half cock. $24 shipped priority and some fumbling around in the gun was well worth it.

You need a 1/8 punch for the slide to get the firing pin out and the 3/32 for the pin that holds the break. The pin that holds the hammer spring is near irrelevant since once you unweighted it the pin pushes out readily. The only other thing I would add if you can is a 3/16 in wood dowel to depress the Hammer spring.

Special Plunger tool



Now here is to fingers crossed for no light primer strikes when I go out friday !!!

[Batuche]

First, thanks for all the posts on this topic - all very helpful and informative.

I’m posting to share my experience and frustration with a slight glitch in this modification, not to disparage the CGW SPGK1 3 Piece Spring Kit which I believe does exactly what it is advertised and intended to do, or to contradict any other posts. The glitch stems from the fact that the CGW blue hammer/main spring is longer, perhaps softer, and slightly larger in diameter than the stock C100 spring. For that reason reassembly of the Flat Spring may present a challenge.

Great instructions can be found for this procedure in this earlier post by p4R4d0x
  Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
  « Reply #2 on: May 05, 2014, 07:41:23 PM »

Also to expand on another post by DexterGSP who identified the CGW hammer spring size problem
  Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
  « Reply #1 on: May 05, 2014, 07:31:18 PM »

If you feel uncomfortable performing this modification yourself, consider having CGW or a reputable gunsmith perform this modification for you.

For clarity I used the parts terminology with part numbers found on the C100 schematic & parts list.

To accomplish the Main Spring/26 replacement I created a crude tool to aid pressing the Hammer Spring Plug/27 back into the handle. With a CZ 75 D PCR this tool would not be needed because on a hard surface the lanyard loop plug could be pressed far enough into the handle without any additional help.

I drilled a couple 1/4” holes in a flat piece of wood then cut off two separate lengths of 1/4” dowel rod and jammed them into the holes allowing two different amounts of dowel rod to stick out; one about 3/16” above the surface, and the other 3/8” because I wasn’t sure which length would work best. I did this so I could center the Hammer Spring Plug/27 over either piece of dowel and then press the pistol frame down to suppress the plug to accommodate installation of the Flat Spring/29. This worked but the pistol wanted to slip off the dowel, so I could have tried another method but I’m too old and stubborn so persisted to finally accomplish the job. Why a 1/4” dowel? Because that’s what I had available.


For the Hammer/Main Spring/26 installation, follow the instructions provided by p4R4d0x on the previous page: remove the Main Spring Plug Pin/28 (bottom pin), Flat Spring/29, Hammer Spring Plug/27, and stock Main Spring/26.  I also removed the Flat Spring Pin/30 (top pin), which made the loose Flat Spring/29 easier to reinstall later.

I ran into trouble during reassembly, which required several attempts.

Compress the CGW Hammer Spring with the Hammer Spring Plug/27, initially keeping some finger pressure against the front of spring to prevent it from bulging/jackknifing forward into the grip area until the Hammer Spring Plug/29 gets close enough to the Main Spring Slut/23 to prevent this. It’s tricky business to push in and hold the Hammer Spring Plug/27 under pressure at just the right position into its well - deeper than flush - to enable you to finagle the loop of the Flat Spring/29 into the front opening of the Hammer Spring Plug/29, and then also into the slots cut into frame allotted to it. The slightly larger diameter of the CGW Hammer Spring does not make this easier.

Once the Flat Spring/29 is in place, allow the Hammer Spring Plug/29 to creep outward just to its flush position, then with everything lined up hold still and reinsert the Main Spring Plug Pin/28 (bottom pin), and release. Last, reinstall the Flat Spring Pin/30 (top pin). 

You’re now finished with this CGW Main Spring installation.

If during removal of the Flat Spring/29 the hook becomes somewhat straightened, bend it back into its former shape/loop with a needle nose pliers. I have seen video whereby the hook was snipped off of the Flat Spring/29 during this process to facilitate installation - I prefer not to do that. I also understand that CZ pistols/clones can operate just fine without a Flat Spring/29 - I prefer to leave it in.

The stock C100 Hammer Spring Plug/27 can be replaced with a CZ 75 Compact Lanyard Loop MS Plug which can make the Hammer/Main Spring installation much easier. The CZ plug fits the C100 perfectly, so if you’re not adverse to a lanyard loop I would recommend it especially if you plan on changing Main Springs again (see photos below).

https://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/main-spring-plugs/cz-75-loop-mainspring-plug-compact.html = $9


For installation of the firing pin spring and firing block plunger spring, follow p4R4d0x’s notes on the previous page. This should go smooth as silk.

The result of this effort will me a MUCH improved DA pull (I’m guessing a good 40%), and I believe a slightly improved SA pull, although I have no gauge to test either. I’m in high clover now with an inexpensive CGW trigger pull fix thanks in part to excellent CGW customer service, and have since fired about 500 rounds of mixed brands of FMJ and defense rounds without a problem.


Before lanyard loop


After lanyard loop