Modified SP01 reset issues, Disconnector issues.

[coolbox]

I want to start below discussion for general benefit of all. Although I know that CGW would reply immediately, but since this could be expected with modification with parts from other sources, and it is not extremely urgent as the gun has been functioning very well, lets have a discussion here as I expect many to opt for this mod in future.

I thought I had a 5mm reset on my SP01 with CGW race hammer, 1485/T2 disco, SRS1.
The audible click of trigger reset is only heard at 5mm.

However, when I checked thoroughly, and actual reset is 2.5mm. There is no audible click though, just a feeling of FPB being released. I am a happy man. Now, I need to figure out a way to get the trigger in SA to stop at the reset point (2.5mm), and not at the point where I hear the click(5mm). I may have to use the 1485/T1 disco (non-fpb model) and fit it to my weapon.

I believe the audible click is the trigger bar going fully forward. I am not sure if it does not go fully forward, what would happen i.e if I cannot hear the audible click, what is it that would happen? I dry fired, did a pencil test, and the weapon fires on squeezing the trigger at the point I feel the FPB is released. Now, I dont know if this is correct functioning of the weapon, last I checked at the range after the installation of parts, twice, all was well. I hope it stays that way in long run.

I would request feedback on reset and audible click from experts.

EDIT: BETTER ELABORATION OF THE COMPLETE ISSUE, 8/26/2014


I thought I had a 5mm reset on my SP01 with CGW race hammer, 1485/T2 disco, SRS1.
The audible click of trigger reset is only heard at about 5mm.

However, when I checked thoroughly, I could get the hammer to drop at 2.5mm. There is no audible click though, just a feeling of FPB/sear being released. I dry fired, did a pencil test, and the weapon fires on squeezing the trigger at the point I feel the FPB/sear is released.

I removed the slide, and checked, but the FPB is not activated at 2.5mm, only the sear is released. It is reactivated at the audible click, 5mm. If I pull the trigger back from the 2.5mm point, the hammer does drop, but I can see the FPB is not activated. With the slide on, I can pass the pencil test (the pencil flies). But that could be due to slight movement of extended firing pin.

In DA, while slowly squeezing trigger, if I just release the trigger (take pressure off, do not pull fully) back right before breaking point, it stays in SA mode, instead of the usual half cock mode. I can also hear a little click. I can repeat this and make it happen every time. I do not think I have encountered this before.

I tried to check but the trigger bar apparently lifts equally from both sides. So, the pressure perhaps is even on both sides.

Advise requested.

[coolbox]

Any feedback would be welcome..

[coolbox]

Ok, I figured out a bit more in this. I removed the slide, and ..

I think I am getting a false reset when the trigger bar goes past the sear. I can still pull the trigger and release the hammer at this stage (it activated the pencil in the pencil test). But I do not see any movement in FPB lifter arm. If I let the trigger go fully forward, hear the audible click, as well as visually observe the trigger bar being lifted, and then squeeze the trigger again, I can see the FPB lifter arm being activated.

Now, why is the pencil activated in the pencil test? Perhaps partial hit of extended firing pin? As I have not tested this partial reset and bang thing in live fire yet.

[Stuart]

The upgraded hammer change the position of the pad below the hooks. This changes the position of the sear. it moves the the spot where the trigger bar resets on the sear, which causes more seperation between it and the spot where the trigger bar picks up the firing pin block lever.
reason why now you can drop the hammer and not activate the lever. ( unless you modify the lever, and if you modify the lever, then you risk not lifting high enough for the block to move out of the way of the firing pin, so you may need to address that too)

Why your pencil test work, not sure, but most likely you do have some movement of the pin.

[mtops]

Hi coolbox.

( to ALL: I'm not a gunsmith nor a CZ expert, so please any misinformation let me know to correct it )

When you replied my threat with your description I was going to tell you that it might be a false reset.. but I think you said the gun was working fine  for you at the range.. so I wasnt sure what was going on. I had the same false reset.. even sometimes I could feel/hear the "clic" (without the slide) and pull the trigger and the hammer will go down but the  FPBL has not reset.. this false reset was the sear leg been disengaged by the trigger bar. so the gun will not fire..

my reset is long so I have been  observing and analyzing all this process..actually you dont have to remove the slide to notice if the FPB lifter is moving or not.. last weekend I was watching my gun at  rear next to the hammer.. there you can see  the FPB lifter. ONCE the FPBL has been reset..and you start pulling the trigger you can notice it going upward when it is engaged by the trigger bar...IF it hasnt been reset properly it wont go upward... the hammer might go down but as the FPB is no engaged.


The audible reset or "clic"  happen  when the trigger bar slide forward enough under the FPBL and pass the FPBL.
you can remove the slide,.pull the trigger, dont release it.. push down the trigger bar and cock the hammer  and using a flash light try to see under the sear...release the trigger slowly and you will see what I said previously.

the false reset might happen because the trigger bar spring is doing more pressure  on one side..David can tell you how to fix it.. in the forum someone posted it, I will copy the link here if I find it.


Please double check the gun is unloaded while doing all this.

[coolbox]

Mtops
I tried to check but the trigger bar apparantly lifts equally from both side. So, the pressure is even on both sides. Thanks.

Stuart, I believe that since this is extended firing pin, there is some chance for the pencil test success. But, I am nit sure what next to do to fix this.

[coolbox]

Ok. So i just noticed one more issue.

In DA, while slowly squeezing trigger, if I just release the trigger back right before breaking point, it stays in SA mode. I can also hear a little click. I do not think I have encountered this before.

[coolbox]

I have edited the first post, with better elaboration of the matter. Also mentioned below.

I thought I had a 5mm reset on my SP01 with CGW race hammer, 1485/T2 disco, SRS1.
The audible click of trigger reset is only heard at about 5mm. 

However, when I checked thoroughly, I could get the hammer to drop at 2.5mm. There is no audible click though, just a feeling of FPB/sear being released. I dry fired, did a pencil test, and the weapon fires on squeezing the trigger at the point I feel the FPB/sear is released. 

I removed the slide, and checked, but the FPB is not activated at 2.5mm, only the sear is released. It is reactivated at the audible click, 5mm. If I pull the trigger back from the 2.5mm point, the hammer does drop, but I can see the FPB is not activated. With the slide on, I can pass the pencil test (the pencil flies). But that could be due to slight movement of extended firing pin.

In DA, while slowly squeezing trigger, if I just release the trigger (take pressure off, do not pull fully) back right before breaking point, it stays in SA mode, instead of the usual half cock mode. I can also hear a little click. I can repeat this and make it happen every time. I do not think I have encountered this before.

I tried to check but the trigger bar apparently lifts equally from both sides. So, the pressure perhaps is even on both sides.

Advise requested.

[1SOW]

I'm just a remove and replace guy, but:
With my 75B slide off--(Comp hammer and Davids sear),  the FPB doesn't  activate at the proper point.  With the slide off and I apply a very small bit pressure down on the trigger bar it activates.
Maybe you're seeing two "different" results with the slide on and off. 

My Shadow "won't reset the trigger" with the slide off,  but runs fine with it on.  The SRT disco is just on the edge of not running,  but I've put many thousands of rounds through it like this and it's 100%..

Looking forward to hearing how this ends up.
 

[coolbox]

1SOW
The on slide and off slide performances are identical. Including the conversion from DA to SA if I release the trigger just before the DA breaking point. I am very eagerly looking forward to more input from Stuart, schmeky and others. I only checked the gun's action to kill time, and found out all this!!

[coolbox]

I got a pm from schmeky. He feels this is a trigger bar supporting spring issue. I will double check that tonight as I could find it lifting uneven from any side. However, I think there is lateral (left-right) disorientation in the spring. Left side wants to kiss the mag, and right side wants to hug the frame. How to fix that?

Also, I have planned to remove FPB (definitely), and convert it to SAO (perhaps). Will leaving this as it is cause any problems in SAO or without the FPB?

[twowheels]

coolbox, the trigger bar spring can get disoriented when the mag release screw is installed.  The screw puts a twisting force on the spring.  You might need to loosen the screw and make sure the spring is straight.  After messing with it, it is always a good idea to loctite the screw in place.

[coolbox]

Well, as it turns out, schmeky was correct,as was mtops. The trigger bar was actually giving uneven pressure, and lifting unevenly. Left side was lifting up first. I bent it down using nose pliars.  It is fixed now, and there is no false reset. Below is the step by step fix from schmeky,


1. Remove the slide
2. Cock the hammer in SA
3. Push down on the trigger bar and at the same pull the trigger all the way back
4. The hammer should now be fully cocked in SA and you should be holding the trigger all the way back
5. SLOWLY let the trigger go forward and watch the 2 humps in the trigger bar - one will jump up sooner than the other
6. The one that jumps up first has to much "up" tension on the trigger bar support spring (#34)
7. Bend the #34 down at little at a time until both sides of the trigger bar pop up at the same time

I was doing step 3 all wrong. It has to be done as mentioned above. With the hammer cocked, press the trigger bar down, then pull the trigger all the way back with the bar still pressed down. Then once the trigger is all the way back, release the bar. Then move to step 4.


Should this fix be a sticky?

[1SOW]

The trigger bar and spring alignment with even pressures has been a source of several problems with the hammer drop.
I'd vote for this being made a sticky.

[oldtimer48]

I agree sticky